About a year ago I rebuilt my blue/yellow band kickback with zero issues. Tore it apart, cleaned and regreased it and it works great! Today I'm trying to rebuild a red band kickback that is not shifting (stuck in 1:1). I can't get it to come apart. I've got it torn down as far as I can go, the adjusting cone lock nut off, brake arm, dust caps, etc. No matter where I turn it, it eventually binds up and stops. Where am I going wrong?!
Red band kickback disassembly woes- Rebuilt and Working!
- Thread starter GTV
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
I *think* this is my problem. According to the service manual:
Remove the Adjusting Cone Lock Nut AB-35, using Wrench AB-102, shift brake to low gear, and rotate sprocket clockwise ( in the driving direction ) until the sun gear is disengaged from planet gears. The cone can then be removed and the brake disassembled in the normal manner.
If I can't shift to low gear, how do I disengage the sun gear from the planet gear?
I *think* this is my problem. According to the service manual:
Remove the Adjusting Cone Lock Nut AB-35, using Wrench AB-102, shift brake to low gear, and rotate sprocket clockwise ( in the driving direction ) until the sun gear is disengaged from planet gears. The cone can then be removed and the brake disassembled in the normal manner.
If I can't shift to low gear, how do I disengage the sun gear from the planet gear?
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
I've been there and done that. If you force it you will break the retarder coupling. I now have 2 red bands complete except for broken retarder couplers so don't feel bad if it happens to you.
It almost has to be in low gear to come apart. Same for blue band. Try taking all the parts you can off the left brake arm side and soak the thing in kerosene or diesel fuel for a couple of days. If the index spring is just frozen and not broken you might be able to eventually shift it into low with a good soaking. Gary
I've been there and done that. If you force it you will break the retarder coupling. I now have 2 red bands complete except for broken retarder couplers so don't feel bad if it happens to you.
It almost has to be in low gear to come apart. Same for blue band. Try taking all the parts you can off the left brake arm side and soak the thing in kerosene or diesel fuel for a couple of days. If the index spring is just frozen and not broken you might be able to eventually shift it into low with a good soaking. GaryRe: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Great :roll: is the retarder coupling the same on red band and blue band? If so I've got an extra. How would I go about forcing it so I break as little as possible? I feel like I have very little leverage... I'm trying to get this back together ASAP and don't have a couple days of soaking time.
Appreciate the help!
Great :roll: is the retarder coupling the same on red band and blue band? If so I've got an extra. How would I go about forcing it so I break as little as possible? I feel like I have very little leverage... I'm trying to get this back together ASAP and don't have a couple days of soaking time.
Appreciate the help!
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Nope. Yellow and blue bands have a different coupler. The coupler is a half circle spring steel band with 2 little windows cut out of it. There are 2 in the red band. It will break at the window. There may be some trick to getting past this, but I don't know it. Try removing everything from the brake arm side then see if you can unscrew the axle out the left side. Don't really know if that would work or not. Gary
Nope. Yellow and blue bands have a different coupler. The coupler is a half circle spring steel band with 2 little windows cut out of it. There are 2 in the red band. It will break at the window. There may be some trick to getting past this, but I don't know it.
Try removing everything from the brake arm side then see if you can unscrew the axle out the left side. Don't really know if that would work or not. Gary
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Bummer If the axle was threaded the entire length I'm positive I could unthread it and the whole thing would come apart, but it is not. Guess I'll just put it back together and leave it as is. This kinda sucks!
Bummer
If the axle was threaded the entire length I'm positive I could unthread it and the whole thing would come apart, but it is not. Guess I'll just put it back together and leave it as is. This kinda sucks!Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Here's a thought...
If I threaded the axle out as far as I could and cut the long end off, then screwed it back the other way, do you think it would come apart? Would it be best to cut the brake side or drive side? I've got another blue/yellow axle I could replace it with as long as they are the same.
Here's a thought...
If I threaded the axle out as far as I could and cut the long end off, then screwed it back the other way, do you think it would come apart? Would it be best to cut the brake side or drive side? I've got another blue/yellow axle I could replace it with as long as they are the same.
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Yep, that darn red band axle is not threaded all the way. I'm not sure about cutting it, but I guess I'd go for it since you have no other options. Good Luck! Gary
Yep, that darn red band axle is not threaded all the way. I'm not sure about cutting it, but I guess I'd go for it since you have no other options. Good Luck! Gary
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Thanks for your help I am hesitant to cut the axle, if I still can't get it apart then I'm really screwed. I'm trying to get this bike together in order to sell this weekend but it looks like that may not happen.
So let me get this straight... When the red band kickback "fails", it automatically shifts into top gear (1:1), but in order to service the hub it has to be in low gear, which is then impossible to shift in to. Brilliant engineering there, Bendix. Brilliant.
Thanks for your help
I am hesitant to cut the axle, if I still can't get it apart then I'm really screwed. I'm trying to get this bike together in order to sell this weekend but it looks like that may not happen. So let me get this straight... When the red band kickback "fails", it automatically shifts into top gear (1:1), but in order to service the hub it has to be in low gear, which is then impossible to shift in to. Brilliant engineering there, Bendix. Brilliant.
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
It doesn't shift to high automatically when it fails. Yours is just stuck in high. I probably have another axle if you want to cut that one. I've worked on dozens of these hubs and have only had 2 jam up like that. They were a good product all in all. Gary
It doesn't shift to high automatically when it fails. Yours is just stuck in high. I probably have another axle if you want to cut that one. I've worked on dozens of these hubs and have only had 2 jam up like that. They were a good product all in all. Gary
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
Whacking off the end of the axle worked! I'm cleaning up the parts now. Thank you for the offer but I'm robbing the axle out of my leftovers from the blue/yellow kickback. I noticed the axle in it is threaded the entire length... I think they realized their mistake...
Whacking off the end of the axle worked! I'm cleaning up the parts now. Thank you for the offer but I'm robbing the axle out of my leftovers from the blue/yellow kickback. I noticed the axle in it is threaded the entire length... I think they realized their mistake...
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
I've also used the yellow band axle to replace the interrupted thread axle. Tell me where you cut the axle so I can fix the next one I find. You saved yourself a lot of grief. That coupler that breaks is impossible to find. Gary
I've also used the yellow band axle to replace the interrupted thread axle. Tell me where you cut the axle so I can fix the next one I find. You saved yourself a lot of grief. That coupler that breaks is impossible to find. Gary
Re: Red band kickback disassembly woes
I threaded the axle as far out as I could on the brake side, put the thin nut on (that goes against the brake arm) all the way down the axle, cut the axle near the nut, took the nut off (to clean up the cut threads), and threaded the axle back the other way.
Everything inside looks pretty good, except for the little stamped shift ring part. It was REALLY worn so I'm using the other one from my parts hub, along with the axle and one of the bearings.
I threaded the axle as far out as I could on the brake side, put the thin nut on (that goes against the brake arm) all the way down the axle, cut the axle near the nut, took the nut off (to clean up the cut threads), and threaded the axle back the other way.
Everything inside looks pretty good, except for the little stamped shift ring part. It was REALLY worn so I'm using the other one from my parts hub, along with the axle and one of the bearings.
