Schwinn 7-Speed Derailleur Question,...

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I have a 44t front sprocket currently on the bike how it sits stock with a 7 speed setup in the rear, how could I figure out how many links to take out of the chain to accomodate a 36t front sprocket? Wanting more ease of pedalling and lower gear options for some offroad action. 8) Any help or maybe even links to somewhere that might help would be appreciated.
 
Well, the teeth on the 36t were to wide for the wimpy skinny derailleur chain so I got lucky and one of my FMF bmx race chainrings was a nice tight fit on the one piece cranks and it was a 40t, worked out perfect because now I can cruise in 3rd gear and still have a couple to drop down if need be. It also looks super trick, I don't even think I will need to shorten the chain as it seems to be working and shifting perfectly.
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It seems to have pretty fair tension on it still, not as much as before but it actually seems to shift smoother and quicker. I'll just leave well enough alone for now, I like this gearing alot better. :wink:
 
I usually put the bike in highest rear gear and pull the derailleur down about an inch from touching itself, then make that the length. The derailleur only stretches longer as you downshift, taking up the slack.
 
I always use Sheldon Brown's way. Simple.

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.
 
Thanks fellas, it never really occured to me that like deorman said, most derailleurs are made to run as many as 3 front chainrings as high as 50+ teeth down as low as 36 or less teeth on the back, with that said, a meer drop of 4 teeth won't need any chain reduction so I feel it's good to go. 8)
 

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