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twojs.bike

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Found this yellow Heavy Duti on CL for $50. It was a 90 minute drive in the rain. The guy also had a red Racer listed for $250. We chatted for a bit and I explained what how I overhaul bikes. He then told me he had a Sidewinder that he wanted someone to fix up. So long story short, we made a deal that would overhaul the sidewinder in exchange for the other two!! Score!

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Captain Awesome

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Found this yellow Heavy Duti on CL for $50. It was a 90 minute drive in the rain. The guy also had a red Racer listed for $250. We chatted for a bit and I explained what how I overhaul bikes. He then told me he had a Sidewinder that he wanted someone to fix up. So long story short, we made a deal that would overhaul the sidewinder in exchange for the other two!! Score!

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That Sidewinder is absolute collectable gold!
 
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@towjs.bike These help with bike storage. Just hang on the wall into each stud and hang bikes by front or back wheel. (I alternate so the handlebars overhang the next bike's seat.
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twojs.bike

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Need some advice on the sidewinder. The drive side dropout is bent. The owner mentioned that the rear derailleur got caught up in the spokes. Not sure if the bent dropout was the cause or result.

Either way I am looking for advice on how to correct this. Is there a way to cold set the dropout back into shape? Help.

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Tallbikeman

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Never seen one bent so badly. I personally would consult with a welder/steel person as to how mild steel will react to bending this back. I'm prone to cold bending it back into position. Your rear wheel had a pie plate so I'm surprised the derailleur got caught in the spokes. Varsities will take a 26" x 1.75" wheel and tire easily. I built a klunker out of a Varsity in the late 70's to race off road in Northern California. The Varsity can take any off road beating you can dish out, other than possibly jumping.
 

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Need some advice on the sidewinder. The drive side dropout is bent. The owner mentioned that the rear derailleur got caught up in the spokes. Not sure if the bent dropout was the cause or result.

Either way I am looking for advice on how to correct this. Is there a way to cold set the dropout back into shape? Help.

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I'm not saying you can't bend that back cold but I would have some reservations

Probably worth the time to heat it and try and touch the paint up afterwards. You could always cover the surrounding area in wet rags to keep everything localized
 

DesmoDog

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Well don't quote me on this... but if I were the kind of guy who tried stuff like this I might try lightly clamping a large adjustable wrench on the closed end of the dropout (jaws of wrench perpendicular to the dropout slot) to keep it from folding, and then smacking the open end with, oh, I dunno, say, a large brass hammer to see if it moves at all?

But I'm not a guy who would try something like that. As far as you know. (yes I am)
 

twojs.bike

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I was thinking something similar only trying a vise instead of hammer. But I could try both. Anyone know whether is is better to heat with a torch first?
 

RustyGold

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A block of wood and an engineering hammer (aka 3lb sledge) should do the trick. Heat will make it easier...but, probably not necessary.

I'd go as far as slotting a 2x4 an inch or so deep in to the 4" so it stays on target and straight during the persuasion whacks.
 

twojs.bike

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From the bottom up, are you thinking floor, block of wood, dropout, hammer hits dropout? Or floor, dropout, block of wood, hammer hits block of wood?
 

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I'd rest the top of the dropouts (frame inverted) on a table or block of wood. Then use the chunk of (slotted) wood to protect the bent portion of the dropout as you (gently?) whack it with the all-purpose-Chrysler-tool (3lb sledge).
 
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Two words: Don't over-do. If it were mine, I'd probably mount an axle or two from the non-drive side to provide a target to shoot for and keep the slot from closing up too much. I like the idea of using a slotted hardwood block to both direct and cushion the hammer blows.

Hmm... I wonder if wood blocks and a C-clamp might do the job with more finesse.
 
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I would take two pieces of angle iron and drill two holes in them the hole closest to the tip I would thread a bolt through and bolt it to the dropout using that fender tab on the rear.

The second hole lineup on the dropout Midway of the bend and put your second bolt through there then use leverage to gently bring that drop out in line where it should be clamping it between the two pieces of angle iron should keep it straight while bending it.

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I would take two pieces of angle iron and drill two holes in them the hole closest to the tip I would thread a bolt through and bolt it to the dropout using that fender tab on the rear.

The second hole lineup on the dropout Midway of the bend and put your second bolt through there then use leverage to gently bring that drop out in line where it should be clamping it between the two pieces of angle iron should keep it straight while bending it.
That's actually a pretty slick plan!
 

twojs.bike

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@outskirtscustoms It frickin worked!!! I owe you a beer. Wow!! Thanks everyone for the advice!!!!

I cut a small piece off the angle iron to protect the dropout.
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Made the tool outskirt invented
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Set on floor for max leverage
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Video of the action




I love this site! I think I’m going to stick around a while!
 

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