I've had this cheap modified chain breaker for over 7 years to break open skiptooth chains. I've never had any trouble, just make sure your aiming is dead center on the pin.
My girls enjoy good aiming.
Secrets of the Masters
- Thread starter g-ratter
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I've had this cheap modified chain breaker for over 7 years to break open skiptooth chains. I've never had any trouble, just make sure your aiming is dead center on the pin.
My girls enjoy good aiming.
if the bottom piece of you stem is stuck in your head tube take the bolt out and but 6 washers or somthing to use as a spacer under the stem bolt head thread it back in,the bolt will now act as a puller,keep tightening it down till your bottom piece comes loose
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While you have a frame sttripped down, get it into alignment. A lot of bikes weren't built that carefully to begin with, or have suffered over the years. It's not hard to do and can make a huge difference in how the bike rides. Here's one link to the procedure:
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Site Contents/How_To_Do_It/FrameSetPrep_5_StringingFrameSet.htm
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Site Contents/How_To_Do_It/FrameSetPrep_5_StringingFrameSet.htm
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1. Especially coaster bikes, but any inexpensive bike without self centering vertical drop-outs may have been jigged together imperfectly, requiring "budging" while tightening wheel nuts or even filing dropouts or bending the seat frame or post to get the wheels in plane and centered under the riders weight. Take the trouble to check it out, the difference in comfort and energy needed to ride is well worth the effort.
2. If you're a grown man or strong woman/teenager, avoid wrenching things tighter than neccessary, this stuff is plain steel or even aluminum, not that hard to strip or break.
3. If rusty parts won't come apart, soak it with penatrent and set it aside 'til tomorrow. Same stuff, different day? Do it again. Waiting a couple of days is more fun than bent or wrinkled tubing or sheet metal.
4. Check tire seating carefully while inflating tires, rim and bead tolerance is variable.
5. Don't keep your chain as tight as an asian bike factory, but don't leave slack in it either.
6. Have fun, get paid, or both. If neither is happening, you're wasting time.
7. Etc., etc.
GMTA
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Another thing that can save your bacon-or an old part- is a set of thread files. They will clean up any external thread, no matter the size. They even come in Whitworth profiles. A lot of junk can be brought back from the dead with them. Here is an article explaining how they are used:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/thread-file/
how cool I'm gonna steal this one ;}One of my favorites from these forums. I liked it so much I stole the idea and used it on my first rat build...
I already did. I needed to change the old strap and that idea came along at just the right time.
stop buying WD40. make your own penetrating fluid. see it here.
I took apart a freewheel cog yesterday and that actually helped a lot.
Thanks, have to try it. The video and the assoc comments on youtube are interesting - never thought how penetrating oil works -the light oil ATF is carried into the rusty threads by the solvent - PB blaster is my weapon of choice but I have had occasion where it has not worked - even after heating the parts and waiting and re-applying it. Goona try a small batch of atf and nail polish remover on some of these parts stuck stem and pedals.
I don't think that nail polish remover will work as good. You can get industrial acetone at home depot. And make sure the container that you use is air tight since acetone will evaporate.
i posted this here somewhere here 2 or 3 years ago.
this is an old motorcycle tip but works on bikes also. best on BMX and beach bars and apes.
use a centerpunch to make some nicely(or not so nice) spaced dimples. the centerpunch dimples wont do much, but they will make a raised area around the dimple. it'll give a little more bite to the clamp/stem/quill/gooseneck.
this is an old motorcycle tip but works on bikes also. best on BMX and beach bars and apes.
use a centerpunch to make some nicely(or not so nice) spaced dimples. the centerpunch dimples wont do much, but they will make a raised area around the dimple. it'll give a little more bite to the clamp/stem/quill/gooseneck.
If you want hand brakes, but your frame wasn't made to mount them, here's what I've done a few times. Make a pair of steel or aluminum plates for either side of the stays, drill a few holes and mount it so the brake pads will line up with the wheel. I made them so they could be moved up or down an inch or so.
Use tin foil to clean rusted chrome. The tin foil is a softer alloy than chrome but harder than the rust. I also use water and have been told that WD ALSO helps. I did my rims and a carrier...both came out well
Barto
Barto
Nice, I understood the alloy delta but was told the water simply helped wipe away the dust. The chemical reaction with th foil is news to me and a huge plus. As stated, I tried it and had good luck.
Barto
I made some diy window cleaner a while back and put it in a spray bottle. I think the recipe was water, vinegar. It really works great to remove or install hand grips. Gonna try it on chrome using the aluminum foil method.
