Settings for my Lincoln welder?

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I recently purchased a NEW! Lincoln 3400HD welder, and started messing around with it this week. Im using the 0.25 wire that came with it and a tank of Carbon dioxide I had layn around. I cut up a junk frame and have been practicing rewelding it and CAN NOT PERFECT IT! Its pissing me off lol

I try adjusting the temps, speeds and pressures on the tank and it eiter just putters and gives me a crappy weld... or the metal just starts melting. Anyone have any opinions to help me out.. or if your local to NW Chicago, can actually meet up to properly show me... Ill take care of you for your time!.

Any help would be appreciated! :D
 
I'm not familiar with your model welder. I can tell you that on a Lincoln AC-225 ARC welder you would go between 40-60 amps depending on the tube thickness of the bike or parts you are working with. I currently have a cheap welder with only high/low heat setting(If I remember correctly, 30A/88A respectively). It's only 110V, but the high setting will blow holes in a bike frame real quick. And the low setting is too low for parts under heavier loads. So 40-60 should be correct for MIG too. I have found that adjusting wire speed is just as important as the heat setting, if not more important. Lower wire speed and several shorter welds spaced apart is how I use the higher setting without shooting holes everywhere. Mine is flux-core, and my welds might not look perfect, but are very strong, so with gas you should be able to find the right combo. Good luck and let us know what you determine.
 
My welder is pretty much same as lincoln 140hd. I can run it as flux core or mig. Obviously right now its set up as Mig.

The welder came with .25 wire for mig and .035 for flux core with matching tips for my gun.

As for thickness, I'm still learning but it's an OCC frame if that helps you help me determine.
 
I'm just winging this from memory and I am no expert. I assume you are welding steel. If you are running innersheild wire (flux core) I think the cable polarity needs to be switched. Someone please confirm this. If running solid wire (gas sheilded) your gas needs to be regulated. I run around 15 to 20 pounds with an Argon Co2 mix. I have been told straight Co2 can be used to save on gas fees but I have also been told it takes a bit more experience to weld with straight Co2 which I have never done. I run a Lincoln Pro-175 and a newer Lincoln Pro-180. Both with Argon Co2 mix. I weld as hot as the metal will allow and the wire speed as fast as it will burn. Listen for the sound of frying bacon. On thin metals I pulse the trigger in spots instead of trying to weld puddles and move around to prevent distorsion until the entire piece is welded. Also you must absolutley prep the metal and get all the paint and grease off for a clean weld. Dip your nozzel in spatter sheild to keep the dingleberries away. Try practicing on a flat steel surface until you get the hang of it. Don't make it harder than it is. Sometimes if the equipment is not up to par or the setup is wrong you might think it's your lack of skills instead of the epuipment. Confirm setup with your manual or go online. Lincoln has awesome tech support. Good luck and I hope I was able to help.
 
Yes my welder has the 2 different polarity for either flux core or bare wire.. im 100% thats setup for how it should be set up right now,

I need to get that gel to dip the gun into... but havent gotten around to it..

If i go over 12-20 psi... seems like just kinda sputters.. almost like to much psi is running through it. so Ive been keeping it at 5-10psi.

By reading online, argon/co2 mix will def give me a cleaner weld but figured since i had a full tank of straight CO2 Id use it up and practice... also states that straight CO2 will give me a sloppier weld. But before getting the mix, im concerned about the sputtering unless maybe the mix will prevent this?
Would I be running similar pressures with argon/co2 mix VS straight CO2>?
How would me using the flux core setup without gas do on a bike frame? Strong enough?
 
The gas is just the sheild to keep porosity at a minumum for a clean solid weld. I can't see how it effects the weld being set higher. The excess gas will just blow away. I can see a problem set too low as the gas will not sheild the weld. As far as flux core, I find that it will have a little slag and is not as clean as the gas sheilding. It's great for welding outdoors when the wind might blow away your sheilding gas. I don't find any difference in weld strength. The goal is to get good solid penetration and both methods have worked for me. Practice a bead and cut it in half to see how effective your your weld is. Again good luck, I know you can do it.
 
I use a 75 percent argon 25 percent CO2 gas on my mig. .023 wire
Sputtering could be to slow of wire speed or dirty metal. Weld area must be spark-ally clean. No paint,rust grease etc etc.
 
My flux core welds as strong as gas. I haven't had a weld break yet. Since you have full heat adjustment, you might try using a grinder to bevel the ends of the tubes you are putting together. Not much, just a little, like half the thickness of the steel. Then start at around 40A(increase if needed after checking that weld). The thinner metal where beveled will allow you better penetration with less heat, and you will also have a "V" all of the way around the tube that as you weld you are also filling in. Not only does this strengthen the weld but keeps it a little cleaner and gives you a more defined area to follow with your tip. I'm no pro, but I've been welding a lot of steel frames over the past few years and this has helped.
 
g-ratter said:
I use a 75 percent argon 25 percent CO2 gas on my mig. .023 wire
Sputtering could be to slow of wire speed or dirty metal. Weld area must be spark-ally clean. No paint,rust grease etc etc.

Too fast of wire speed could also be the problem, if the wire moves too fast and hits a solid base metal before it's hot enough to melt it will sputter and bounce the "gun" around.
 
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