Might be doable if you found the right diameter tubing. You could use one of these splices to connect to the flexible line.
https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/hydraulic-brake-line-coupler
You should be able to bend that hose quite a bit though.
Shortbow
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Might be doable if you found the right diameter tubing. You could use one of these splices to connect to the flexible line.
https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/hydraulic-brake-line-coupler
You should be able to bend that hose quite a bit though.
The Renaissance Man
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I have no experience with bicycle disc brakes so I'm wondering if the fittings are compatible with automotive fittings. If they are, then it would be possible to clean up the routing by bending a small loop to enter the frame at either the chain stays or seat stays. There are lots of options with either hard lines or flexible lines and also angled fittings.
Steel braided lines would be MAD SICK!!
They do look nice, especially on a muscle bike. I'm not sure on this one though. I was thinking a little more understated on the hoses but that can change at any time.
Might be doable if you found the right diameter tubing. You could use one of these splices to connect to the flexible line.
https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/hydraulic-brake-line-coupler
You should be able to bend that hose quite a bit though.
Thanks. They sure have some beautiful photos of pretty cool hardware at that site. That splice comes closer to what I was hoping to find than anything I've been able to dig up! At one point I had my hopes pinned on swapping out the caliper end from a straight to a banjo fitting. That would give me a 90° turn but, from what I can tell the bolt sizes and thread pitch are different.
I did try the tighter bend you suggested. I was surprised just how far the hydraulic hose would bend. Not bad but I'm still not sure. Might be a situation were I'm looking at the hose and bend too closely and isolated from everything else. Maybe once the seat and handle bars are on the best choice will be more obvious?
First Pass Hose Routing (from page 5)
Second Pass Routing
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Your second option looks much cleaner to me. I think you are concentrating too much on the brake line, once it's all together it's not going to be so noticeable. Are you planning to go bare metal, or paint?
Is there a 90 degree fitting that could be put on the caliper?
Is there a 90 degree fitting that could be put on the caliper?
My head is swimming from diving into the hydraulic brake rabbit hole! I know very little about automotive or bicycle hydraulic brakes. Though I feel confident in saying that there seems to be little in common between bike brands. Don't know between bike and automotive. I think its worth pursuing though for sure. I can imagine hard brake lines as an opportunity for added detail or even main design elements.
Thanks and, you are probably very right. I was thinking black powder coat for the durability. But then again, bare metal is about as durable as you can get.
I haven't been able to find a 90° fitting. Using a bent hard line and the splice @Chad T found looks like the best option so far.
It might be a bit late as we are running out of time and you already have some brakes, but some of the higher end Shimano disc brakes have an adjustable angle inlet on the calliper.
Here’s a pick of some SLX MTB brakes. Yu can see the silver fitting on the end of the hose
Here’s a pick of some SLX MTB brakes. Yu can see the silver fitting on the end of the hose
I'm probably late too but I found these banjo fittings on ebay. The are like the fittings @HuffnPuff posted. The are compatible a number of different brakes according to the vendor.
Unfortunately I'm pretty sure I won't be making the cut off. Advantage there is that I do have time.
Now that's a great idea! I'm still within the 30 day return policy period too. I think I've been blinded by the design possibilities of using hard lines for hydraulics. Not necessarily for this build but, I have a cruiser design that I want to get to eventually. Running hard lines along the frame fits in really well with the way I have it envisioned in my head. Might be best to save what I've learned here so far for that. To me the overall theme of this build requires a more simple solution. The caliper you've suggested seems to be close to the same price point and would allow the hose to run very similar to the derailleur cable on the opposite side of the frame. Nice, clean, simple, perfect. Thanks!
I hadn't found those but I did run across similar fittings. Unfortunately the banjo bolt is different than the straight hose bolt and hole/thread in the caliper body. You'd think they would have made them the same but as far as I can tell they didn't. Not on Shimano anyway?
Also the banjo fitting requires a machined surface for the crush washer to seat against.
That other caliper should work well. Have you tried the caliper in a position where it's farther forward up against the seat stay? Then the hose would run fairly straight.
Deadline schmedline. Look forward to seeing the rest of this build.
Hadn't even considered that there might be a machined surface for the washer.
It's hard to see in the image but the tightening bolt on the seat support attachment bracket prevents it from rotating too much further forward. If I redesigned the bracket I might be able to gain a little room. But, I also need to make sure I leave enough room for some rotation of the bracket for adjusting the seat up and down. Haven't even started to squeak a caliper bracket in yet. Real-estate is at a premium in that area!
I just can't believe how quickly time slips away in these build-offs.
Handle Bars
Started with a set of donor bars, bars that I had tried on a build a year or so ago that didn't work out, and some straight stock. I left them a little tall and haven't committed to a final sweep-back angle. Waiting till I have an actual seat so I can get a good feel for the fit of the bars while on the bike.
Here's the bars mounted with the seat template in place.
Started with a set of donor bars, bars that I had tried on a build a year or so ago that didn't work out, and some straight stock. I left them a little tall and haven't committed to a final sweep-back angle. Waiting till I have an actual seat so I can get a good feel for the fit of the bars while on the bike.
Here's the bars mounted with the seat template in place.
TJ, one thought popped in my head while I look at your last photo with the seat template on the bike.
The seat looks a bit 'angular' and thin in respect to all the flowy curves of your frame; and that big fat rear tire. I'm not saying full on shag upholstery on this muscle machine, but maybe a thicker, more substantial seat? Something with a more rounded edge, thicker body, and not such a pointy nose?
I like the bare frame without paint and the rest of the parts mix as is. Maybe your seat, grips, and pedals add a touch of color to this build.
I know there is a time crunch. And I'd like to see this bike in the Finished Builds. Just sharing some thoughts on my impressions as I look at the latest mock up.
RaT oN~!
The seat looks a bit 'angular' and thin in respect to all the flowy curves of your frame; and that big fat rear tire. I'm not saying full on shag upholstery on this muscle machine, but maybe a thicker, more substantial seat? Something with a more rounded edge, thicker body, and not such a pointy nose?
I like the bare frame without paint and the rest of the parts mix as is. Maybe your seat, grips, and pedals add a touch of color to this build.
I know there is a time crunch. And I'd like to see this bike in the Finished Builds. Just sharing some thoughts on my impressions as I look at the latest mock up.
RaT oN~!
Appreciate the feedback, thank you very much.
I kinda like the thinner profile and pointy nose
. But yes, I agree that the edges would look much better rounded. Something more like the seat from ECHO (top image) verses the seat from Fastback GT (bottom image). That Fastback GT seat is basically like sitting on bare metal and is probably the most uncomfortable seat I've ever been on!
I have some vinyl that's a nice shade of orange. Thinking of that for the seat and grips. I'll probably try that first. If I don't like the look maybe a darker reddish brown/burgundy. Either should look good with the bare metal and add some visual weight to the seat. Definitely more so than the cream template or white glitter. In the end if it still looks too thin I can always add some padding. Much easier than slimming a too thick seat!
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Why do good looking seats have to hurt so much? I have two for my cruiser, one for riding and one for pictures. I'm so vain
