Skip tooth chain revisit

[Cliff]

I've searched the forum and have read previous threads related to breaking a skip tooth chain. I'm not having any luck with one at the moment, so thought I'd ask once again. Mine has a master link. The plates are clearly different than the other links; more oval than "figure eight" in shape. I've never worked with a skip tooth master link before and I am not sure which plate is the male and which is the female side. Regardless, flexing the links sideways (perpendicular the the long axis of the chain) doesn't seem to move the pins much, and I still can't tell the male and female sides of the link. No amount of prying against the plates with a screw driver, grunting, mouth position, tongue in or out, or foul language has convinced this little item to give up the grip it has on the rest of the chain (and me). Thus, at the same time I apologize for asking this question again, I wonder if anyone has any words of wisdom or if magically a new trick for opening the master link has been discovered since the previous threads related to the same topic.

Thanks for any help/advice.

Cliff

 

[jerrykr]

I borrowed a chain break tool from a co-worker who plays with go-karts. It is made for larger chains than bicycle, but at the end of it's adjustment it worked on the ST master, pushed the pin right out. The pin looked the same on both ends when I got it out.

 

[12bcruzin]

I borrowed a chain break tool from a co-worker who plays with go-karts. It is made for larger chains than bicycle, but at the end of it's adjustment it worked on the ST master, pushed the pin right out. The pin looked the same on both ends when I got it out.

DO NOT USE A CHAIN BREAKER to open a vintage "no clip" master link. The 2 pins on the master link are spring loaded outward and lock against the oval plate. The pins are peened on the male side and there is a small groove around each pin on the female side (the oval plate side). You should see a very small gap between the oval plate and the pin on the female side. To release the "spring", simply hold one end of the chain (6" inches or so) near the master link and with your other hand, grab the other end of the chain about the same distance away and put a slight bow in the side of the chain to push the pins toward each other-just as you described. Sometimes there is too much gunk around the pins and it is difficult to get the plate to pop off. The oval plate should pop off or take a small screwdriver and pop it off as you bow the chain (to the side, not inline with the links). I hope that makes sense...look closely at the master link and maybe it will be clearer...NO TOOLS ARE USUALLY REQUIRED..

 

[River City Speed]

My Diamond skip tooth master link has "this side out" stamped on it. It was pretty easy to pop off with a small screw driver.

 

[ozzmonaut]

You might take a small wire brush and scrub both sides of the link thoroughly if you are having trouble distinguishing. They are generally straightforward. I have several different kinds of skiptooth master links on my chains. One is the spring loaded, one has a plate with 2 holes that get smaller in size so you slide the link to the side to lock it in, and one actually has a tiny screw with a super-thin nut holding it on. Is it extremely rusty? If so the brush may help or some oil or something.