skiptooth sprocket removal

[Uncle Stretch]

Does anybody know if to remove a skiptooth sprocket off of an elgin hub ,does it unscrews clockwise or counterclockwise. I have seen the tool you use ....looks like some chain on a stick. I can probably build something like that. This one has a really small sprocket on it and man you gotta have some good legs to get moving.

 

[jre0123]

Is it a aircooled hub. Or is it a morrow or new departure. I've got a book somewhere around here with all the specs for all the different hubs.

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Its an aircooled one . says elgin on the brake arm

 

[2manybikes]

The aircooled hubs were made by musselman. The sprocket is held on by a threaded lockring. You have to remove that lockring with a spanner wrench to change the sprocket. The chain on a stick is called a chain whip.

 

[Uncle Stretch]

I got the ring off a while back and lost it so i dont even have that to see which way it is threaded. Crassly said they are hard to take off and its easier to just pull the insides out to spoke it. That is what I did but now I want to change it to a bigger sprocket. I might be wrong but it looks like the sprocket is threaded on too. If its not I dont see what would stop it from spinning . but then i havent taken it off maybe a pin or something.

 

[Boardtrack fan]

They are designed to tighten when you pedal. So, righty tighty lefty losey. Can be very difficult to remove. Lots of heat with PB blaster and be careful not to damage it with whatever you grip it with. Best of luck.

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Thats what I was thinking. I have another hub that is a musselman . Its a jc higgins ...looks differant but im going to take it apart and see if that gear part will fit if so ill just swap for the sprocket and part for that one. Thanks again boardtrackfan.

 

[2manybikes]

The Higgins hub guts should be the same.
Here is a link from Sheldons site with a parts blowup.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/coaster-bra ... elman.html

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Yeah I downloaded that last night. It said musselman made the hubs for jc higgins so maybe ill get lucky.

 

[Bendix]

kinda funny- you pretty much have to build a wheel just to have enough leverage to remove a cog!

 

[Crassly]

I have been meaning to try making a tool for removing those cogs but haven't gotten around to it. My idea was to take a large nut and weld an extra drive clutch in the hole in the nut. Then clamp the nut in the vise and turn the driver into the clutch from the backside and then remove the sprocket. I have no idea if it would work or not, but it might be worth a try.

 

[Uncle Stretch]

Maybe I'm totally off here but cant you just use the backwards motion of the pedals to undo the sprocket? Lock the wheel down somehow and stand on the crank? :roll: looks like the welding the nut deal would be hard because that worm gear thing looks like its brass.

 

[SkidMark]

Lockring is LEFT-hand threaded

Sprocket is RIGHT-Hand threaded

Just like a fixed gear hub, but the threads are a different size.

 

[Crassly]

Hmmmmmmmm........

http://cgi.ebay.com/SUPER-RARE-NOS-BICY ... 240%3A1318

 

[SkidMark]

I've clamped the sprocket in a vise before and spun the sprocket off by turning the wheel.

That tool would work if you have the hub disaassembled, but if I were taking off the sprocket I'd do that with hub and the wheel assembled.

 

[2manybikes]

I have taken apart New Departure hubs that were not laced into a wheel using a chain whip and a plumbers strap wrench.

 

[Bendix]

I have taken apart New Departure hubs that were not laced into a wheel using a chain whip and a plumbers strap wrench.

that's a good idea. i wonder if there's a strap wrench gizmo that would clamp in a vise so you could really lay into that sprocket with the chain whip.....

 

[Uncle Stretch]

I dont understand what would stop the hub from just turning??? The suggestion of putting the crank in a vice and useing the wheel to turn it off. Seems like it would just go one way or the other. I cant get behind it in my mind for some reason. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: If that would work then you could just leave it on the bike and take that ring off and turn the wheel and it would come off.

 

[cashman]

I always try to thread them off or at least loosen them up with the hub still spoked in the wheel. I put on a thick pair of work gloves and grip the sprocket with a good pair of 5" genuine Channelock pliers and I've learned the hard way by many busted knuckles not to trust off-brand pliers as they tend to slip. That's usually all it takes to get most of them to thread off. For the ones that are stubborn, I heat up just the outboard side of the sprocket lightly with a propane torch. I apply heat until the sprocket usually makes a slight pop sound and that is the expansion of the sprocket away from the drive screw. Unless it is cross threaded on there, that will usually get most of the bad rusted ones off. I've never damaged a sprocket by doing it that way. Thanks!!!

 

[SkidMark]

I dont understand what would stop the hub from just turning??? The suggestion of putting the crank in a vice and useing the wheel to turn it off.

The coasterbrake.

It engages by pedaling counterclockwise, right?

If you left it on the bike and tried to unscrew it by turning the wheel counterclockwise, the brake would be engaged and the wheel wouldn't spin.

I suggested clamping the cog in the vise, because I've done it more than once and it works.

I've used a home-made chainwhip on one. You begin to turn it and the coasterbrake engages and then you just unscrew the cog, they are ON THERE so putting it on the bike and stomping on the pedal won't do it.