Wish I would have found that last year did bare metal must have repolished 4 times before something worked.
Stealthmaster
- Thread starter JA331
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Applying the paste is quite simple. Its the preparation of the metal that took the bulk of the time.
Don't touch that dial!! Stellar work on the frame prep and it's the first time I've seen that paste used; but what a cool result!
Whatever happens before you head to Greece for your Summer visit, mock it up as far as your progress lets you. I'm tuned in!
RaT oN~!
Whatever happens before you head to Greece for your Summer visit, mock it up as far as your progress lets you. I'm tuned in!
RaT oN~!
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Exactly what I said.
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Thanks. I’ll have it all sorted in a week or so.
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Thanks. The designers at CWC did incredible work.
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I've done polished bare metal trust me not easy
CWC frame is nicer.
CWC frame is nicer.
Does the RPM stain a clean rag after it is set? It almost looks like the stove polish that is used on wood burning stoves. But stove polish will rub off.
Such beautifully flowing lines. These tires compliments the srame design very well. And you did a very good job cleaning it up
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No, the paste polished off clean. It has a carnauba wax base and has left a glossy lustre on the frame.
Thanks. I have had a very nasty respiratory virus for a week and just started working again on it today. Standby.
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I was eager to start on the reassembly today after a week of being stuck in the house recovering from a serious respiratory virus.
Beginning with the fork, I grabbed the crown race which at over 80 years old was badly worn. I had used this crown race with the fork before and found the fork was binding up. All the CWC forks I have, use a crown race (CR) with an ID of 25.4 rather than the more common size of 26.4. It is impossible to find new a new headset with a 25.4 CR, so I bought a new Tange MX125 sealed head set with the intention of using it with the CWC crown race. As this head set has sealed bearings it doesn’t matter if the CR is worn as it mates to a machined surface rather than ball bearings.
I began by lubing the head tube and cups with anti seize paste and then pressed them in with my trusty Park tool. Finally I fitted the fork. Problem 1 was solved and the fork now turned smoothly.
Next I got to work on the BB. The BB on the frame was stretched so the cups had to be shimmed. I cut some thin strips out of a can of Guinness (yes I drank it as I worked on the frame) and applied a little Loctite 680 adhesive to them before pressing them in with my Park tool. The adhesive needs to set overnight so I decided to leave the tool fitted to hold them in.
I am hoping tomorrow after I am
done at work, I can get the cranks, stem and bars fitted.
Beginning with the fork, I grabbed the crown race which at over 80 years old was badly worn. I had used this crown race with the fork before and found the fork was binding up. All the CWC forks I have, use a crown race (CR) with an ID of 25.4 rather than the more common size of 26.4. It is impossible to find new a new headset with a 25.4 CR, so I bought a new Tange MX125 sealed head set with the intention of using it with the CWC crown race. As this head set has sealed bearings it doesn’t matter if the CR is worn as it mates to a machined surface rather than ball bearings.
I began by lubing the head tube and cups with anti seize paste and then pressed them in with my trusty Park tool. Finally I fitted the fork. Problem 1 was solved and the fork now turned smoothly.
Next I got to work on the BB. The BB on the frame was stretched so the cups had to be shimmed. I cut some thin strips out of a can of Guinness (yes I drank it as I worked on the frame) and applied a little Loctite 680 adhesive to them before pressing them in with my Park tool. The adhesive needs to set overnight so I decided to leave the tool fitted to hold them in.
I am hoping tomorrow after I am
done at work, I can get the cranks, stem and bars fitted.
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Thanks. I tried searching online with no results. Some similar products came up. Your bike is outstanding.
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Thank you very much. IMO CWC had some of the most incredible frame designs before WW2. Simple but beautiful.
If you are searching for the paste i used to protect the frame, search for Rust Prevention Magic. I got the last tub on Amazon but the one before I bought from National Parts Depot (Classic Mustang Parts reseller)
Glad to see you are 'back at it'. I had a respiratory virus this winter that lasted nearly a month. It was about 2 weeks of the worst illness I may have ever had. Way worse than when I had Covid, but I had specific treatment for that.
On the bike side of things, that paste sounds like the ticket. I'll be anxious to try it some time. Stay well!
On the bike side of things, that paste sounds like the ticket. I'll be anxious to try it some time. Stay well!
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Thanks Oddjob. I had covid last year and this virus was much worse. I think it will take
another week or so before I’m over it.
Agreed, CWC was/is rolling art. I feel their styling was above and beyond even as late as 1948. A lot of other manufacturers 'caught up' with CWC that year. Check out almost any bike company/model in 1948, a lot of legendary design, but CWC was always a frontrunner (in my opinion).
I'm excited to try that RPM! Thanks for the heads up. Your bike looks stunning!
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I got a heap of work done this afternoon. I was going at it pretty hard and didn’t bother to take photos.
I bought a Redline Flight crank kit a while back on ebay at half price and I was surprised to find a bottom bracket kit in the box. After setting up the BB yesterday, I just had to bolt the original skip tooth chainwheel to the cranks and fit them.
Yesterday before leaving for work, I also painted the raw finish Johnny True Torch Powerslide bars and left them to dry overnight. I found the centre on the bars and mounted them to the NOS unbranded stem I bought a while back. Its a nice part which is made in Japan and not overly heavy.
The shifter was badly scratched as was the mounting part of the Polygon hand brake lever so I sanded out the flaws and painted them. The alloy lever was in nice condition and just needed a light polish. I should get the rest of bike done over the weekend.
I bought a Redline Flight crank kit a while back on ebay at half price and I was surprised to find a bottom bracket kit in the box. After setting up the BB yesterday, I just had to bolt the original skip tooth chainwheel to the cranks and fit them.
Yesterday before leaving for work, I also painted the raw finish Johnny True Torch Powerslide bars and left them to dry overnight. I found the centre on the bars and mounted them to the NOS unbranded stem I bought a while back. Its a nice part which is made in Japan and not overly heavy.
The shifter was badly scratched as was the mounting part of the Polygon hand brake lever so I sanded out the flaws and painted them. The alloy lever was in nice condition and just needed a light polish. I should get the rest of bike done over the weekend.
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