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particularly if they have had experience with nexus 7 or 3 speed hubs with a skiptooth drivetrain.
I think you're in pretty rare company here, sir...
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I got the frame and fork back from the media blaster after a couple of weeks as he sold the business but promised me he would do it for me before he handed over the keys.

The frame looks to have been hand stripped before and needs a few repairs. It is straight and in very decent condition considering its age other than the chain stays which have some damage where the kick stand was mounted. The fork had layers of old paint and rust and still has a lot of rust the plastic media did not remove as well as a lot of dark pitting. I don’t think I would be too pleased with a bare metal finish on the fork as it is and feel it needs to be protected as it is a rare and valuable piece. I am going to get it blasted again with a more aggressive media to remove all the rust and will probably paint it.

I am hoping I can get this build done in time but I am heading off to Greece in 3 weeks to stay with my outlaws for a month. Winter has also come early down South in Australia and preparing and possibly painting stuff is a pain with the cold and rain.

I’ve thought of painting the frame black and exposing the brazed sections and aging the paint.
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Bare frames always look so good, especially with that lovely filleting showing. I keep thinking I'll go that route someday, but then end up painting. Maybe this will inspire me to make it my year! :)
Looking Awesome!
 
Thanks.
Bare frames always look so good, especially with that lovely filleting showing. I keep thinking I'll go that route someday, but then end up painting. Maybe this will inspire me to make it my year! :)
Looking Awesome!
Thanks. This is my first bare metal frame. I have contemplated this before but went for paint in the end. Hopefully this rpm paste is really magic and offers protection.
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The truss rods I was using with this fork before are not the correct rods and are thinner in diameter. Rather than cough up a silly amount of money for the proper truss rods, I decided to fill the holes in the fork with jb weld, wait a few days and then drill new holes to match the diameter of the truss rods. Gotta love JB weld!
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Original holes.
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New smaller holes to suit the truss rods I have.
 
The truss rods I was using with this fork before are not the correct rods and are thinner in diameter. Rather than cough up a silly amount of money for the proper truss rods, I decided to fill the holes in the fork with jb weld, wait a few days and then drill new holes to match the diameter of the truss rods. Gotta love JB weld!View attachment 234635
Original holes.View attachment 234636
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New smaller holes to suit the truss rods I have.
Nice work👌

Loving the overall look so far.
 
I worked on the front fork for over an hour, scrubbing it with deoxidine and a scotch brite pad. It looks way better than it did before and with more work I may be able to improve it some more.View attachment 234099

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It looks really, really good bare. If you want to paint the fork for protection, you could hit it with clear, or a brassy gold to match the brazing on the frame? Or just rub the whole thing down with boiled linseed oil?
 
It looks really, really good bare. If you want to paint the fork for protection, you could hit it with clear, or a brassy gold to match the brazing on the frame? Or just rub the whole thing down with boiled linseed oil?
Thanks. I believe this is one of CWC’s sexiest frames and second only to their incredible 1937 Supreme below. The frame I have and the one below also have a 3/4” taller head tube and 1” taller seat mast.
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I intend to coat the frame and fork with rpm paste. I have used it on cast iron car parts and it seems to work well. I believe it has a Carnauba wax base and I really want to see how well it works on old carbon steel.
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