Stuck stem! Any suggestions?

[OddJob]

Hey guys, I am trying to remove a stuck stem (and threaded fork top nut) from an old cruiser I just picked up. I would like to use the fork for a possible build for BO-11, so I'm trying to get this thing out this week!
Any ideas? What I have tried so far; some kind of super penetrating oil (nope), vinegar (uh uh), tapping with hammer (negatory), wood 2 x 4 stuck in fork legs with 220 lb son on that and me (same size) on the handlebars (nuthin' doin'), smacking stem side to side with bigger hammer (nada). I have the stem bolt out and the wedge is loose inside the steer tube. The fork does move about 45 degrees side to side, so the steer tube is not adhered to the head tube of the frame. Thinking maybe heat up the blow torch soon....

Anybody? Bueller?

 

[RustySprockets]

Hmm...I wonder. Is it a cone-shaped wedge? Sometimes, that style of wedge can flare the stem inside the steerer tube, making removal difficult, even when it's loosened. Maybe try this?

 

[CrazyDave]

you could flip it upside down and fill the head tube with PB blaster, diesel fuel, etc. for a day or so. I had one the other day that was stubborn, so I muscled it loose. I was happy till I realized the top 1/4" of the fork came off in the top nut...lol. Hate a stuck stem man...

 

[horsefarmer]

Learned a lot about fixing stuff from my late Brother in law ( a tractor mechanic extraordinaire ) . He used to heat stubborn stuff with an oxy torch (said propane not hot enough) and spray pbblaster then "Shock the shaft" I.E. strike with hammer. Maybe more pb blaster after cool down. If possible give it some "soak time" try again to get it apart, if no go repeat the process.... Good luck - I kinda CrazyDave's Idea to turn it upside down to get gravity to help get your penetrating oil where you want it. Oh ya heat goes up and expands so when you have it upside down heat the steer tube.

 

[deorman]

Sounds like the stem has become flared out and bulged the tube. Slide hammer may work.

 

[OneHorsePower]

i had great success puting the frame unside down with the seatpost in the vice and using the whole frame as a lever to spin it while pulling up , takes strenght and stamina , but it always worked for me ... exept for one , it destroyed the seatpost/seat clamp , and i had to cut the post and use a bigger diameter post to put over what was remaining
(edit: oups ! this was about stuck stem )

 

[The Renaissance Man]

I've fought and won the stem battle a couple of times by soaking it with PB from the top for a day and then flip it over and soak it from the bottom for a day, repeat, repeat, repeat. Each time I would put the crown of the fork in my vice and slip a 3 to 4 foot cheater bar through the stem and put pressure on it (not Hulk pressure, just lean into it). While the pressure is applied, take a hammer and beat on the bar close to the stem, then reverse direction and hammer it again. Think of it as an impact wrench in slow motion. Be patient and walk away after a few minutes when it doesn't budge and do it again the next day. It can take days and sometimes weeks but it's very satisfying when it finally moves for the first time! Good luck!

 

[OddJob]

Thanks guys! Yeah, I had thought of the upside down fill with chemicals idea as maybe my next approach. I'm a little limited in the 'clamp fork crown in the vise' as it is a double springer....

Will try some of the methods you all mentioned. Appreciate the help! I will let you know when it releases!

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Take the springer section and the fender off and clamp it just below the crown.

 

[deorman]

Regardless of method used on the stem, disassembling the rest of the fork seems like a good idea.

 

[Fv2]

PB is good stuff so you be able to get it. I hope it works out.

 

[Bicycle808]

Kroil seems to be the best penetrating oil.... get it at yer local gun shop.

@deorman makes some good points; take EVERYthing off, and really, if you have a bulged steerer and the stem is rough anyway, i'd be tempted to just cut it out, save the frame, and move on with my life. But if you think the steerer is good, and/or you want to save the stem, the best combo is lots of penetrating oil, lots of patience, and lots of brute idiot strength. Leave the bars in for leverage; consider swapping the bars for some wide mtb bars, for even more leverage. I've been thru this a bunch of times; these days, my first response to a CL ad will be with questions about if the post or stem are seized; if so, i typically pass unless it's a bike i reallllly want. If dude says they're not seized, i still check them to make sure before i buy the thing, b/c a third of these guys are lying, and a third of'm don't even know what i mean by "are the post or stem seized?"

 

[CrazyDave]

^^^Good Advice 808,im takin a wrench with me to AA and from now on when im bike huntin.

 

[Fv2]

I just re read this.
It sounds like you have the same issue I had with the fork I used on stormtrooper.
What TRM described is pretty much how I got the stem out, the unfortunate thing on yours is that the nut is also seized. So you have a frame in the way.

I'd say take the front part of the forks apart, then maybe try the 2x4 trick to hold the fork still, secure the frame so it won't move and use a long straight tube or bar in the stem to rock it back and forth to see if it frees up.

To loosen the nut, I'd try penetrating oil and a pipe wrench. If you can get the stem free, but have to cut the nut off with a Dremel or something just be careful. That way you can clean the threads up.

 

[OddJob]

Yeah, got it all apart this afternoon, with above mentioned pieces off the frame. So it's just down to the frame and fork now. I don't have a real heavy duty vise, so I might find a neighbor with one and try that. Have the stem bolt hole plugged and filled the steer tube / stem neck with penetrating oil. Don't have any PB blaster, might see if this works first. I do have some room to cut, as the frame it is on being a girl's has a head tube that is almost an inch longer than the boy's frame I want to transfer it to. Thanks guys!

 

[OddJob]

Kroil seems to be the best penetrating oil.... get it at yer local gun shop.

@deorman makes some good points; take EVERYthing off, and really, if you have a bulged steerer and the stem is rough anyway, i'd be tempted to just cut it out, save the frame, and move on with my life. But if you think the steerer is good, and/or you want to save the stem, the best combo is lots of penetrating oil, lots of patience, and lots of brute idiot strength. Leave the bars in for leverage; consider swapping the bars for some wide mtb bars, for even more leverage. I've been thru this a bunch of times; these days, my first response to a CL ad will be with questions about if the post or stem are seized; if so, i typically pass unless it's a bike i reallllly want. If dude says they're not seized, i still check them to make sure before i buy the thing, b/c a third of these guys are lying, and a third of'm don't even know what i mean by "are the post or stem seized?"

Yeah, in th

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Have the stem bolt hole plugged and filled the steer tube / stem neck with penetrating oil. Don't have any PB blaster, might see if this works first.

Get you some PB Blaster ...trust me, you always need it on hand!

 

[horsefarmer]

Our local Tractor Supply store keeps "bonus size" cans of PB Blaster right at the check-out.

 

[OddJob]

Our local Tractor Supply store keeps "bonus size" cans of PB Blaster right at the check-out.

Will give Fleet Farm a shot later today. Sounds like this might come in handy anyway for future creations of crustiness and rat-tifications of rustiness....

 

[OddJob]