Sturmey "Sprinter" S5C 5 spd -Advice?

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all: I had a buddy give me a wheel with one of these hubs in it (see title).
It is a coaster brake/5 speed internal geared hub.
I'm wondering if anyone out there has had experience with them: I'm considering using it in a build; but would have to string it into a 26" wheel (It's in a 700c right now).
I checked Sheldon Brown, and there's not much specific info...
I have had a local guy say that they are prone to slipping; but he then wanted to sell me a brand new hub.
I'm sure everyone understands my theory that "Free is better than 150 bucks"...
 
my kid runs a sturmey 5-speed, not sure of the model, but it was a cheaper model. its about 5 yrs old now and works great! the only bad part about it is the shifter body WAS plastic and prone to breaking at the cable adjuster, which they have since revised..
 
scrumblero said:
my kid runs a sturmey 5-speed, not sure of the model, but it was a cheaper model. its about 5 yrs old now and works great! the only bad part about it is the shifter body WAS plastic and prone to breaking at the cable adjuster, which they have since revised..
Yah Scrumble: This one is a little older and has no shifter (I just have the hub with the indicator chain). I'm actually hoping to rig a shifter on the frame.
Another question is how much do these hubs depend on indexing? Can friction work?
 
Indexed shifting is highly recommended. If the internals aren't line up properly, it's easy to destroy the hub.

The good news. It's a great hub for a cruiser and commuting. It isn't made for racing, so standing to pedal harder isn't a good idea. Sturmey Archer hubs have become my all time favorite, despite their limitations.
 
CycleTruck said:
Indexed shifting is highly recommended. If the internals aren't line up properly, it's easy to destroy the hub.

The good news. It's a great hub for a cruiser and commuting. It isn't made for racing, so standing to pedal harder isn't a good idea. Sturmey Archer hubs have become my all time favorite, despite their limitations.
Cool beans.
I wasn't planning on being in the front of the peloton anyway. :mrgreen:
Time to get to work on it.
 
the SA geek friend of mine (who authored the TCT website in my sig) has this to say.

GrahamNR17 said:
The five-speed Sturmey's are incredibly intolerant of anything less than pucker Sturmey cable outers. Any 'give' 'swell' or 'stretch' in the cable outer will yield all of the annoying symptoms experienced by many people. If using a Sturmey five, it best to go back to old methods of cabling, and use the shortest length of top-quality cable outer possible between the trigger and a cable stop on the top tube, then use bare cable via a pulley down to the hub. Even then, the short length of outer really must be top quality, preferably Sturmey or Shimano gear cable outer. Mine has been fine for two years and I've never missed a gear :wink:

ignore him and it'll give you grief.
 
hubgearfreak said:
the SA geek friend of mine (who authored the TCT website in my sig) has this to say.

GrahamNR17 said:
The five-speed Sturmey's are incredibly intolerant of anything less than pucker Sturmey cable outers. Any 'give' 'swell' or 'stretch' in the cable outer will yield all of the annoying symptoms experienced by many people. If using a Sturmey five, it best to go back to old methods of cabling, and use the shortest length of top-quality cable outer possible between the trigger and a cable stop on the top tube, then use bare cable via a pulley down to the hub. Even then, the short length of outer really must be top quality, preferably Sturmey or Shimano gear cable outer. Mine has been fine for two years and I've never missed a gear :wink:

ignore him and it'll give you grief.

This is correct. Don't use any off-brand cables etc; they will give you nothing but headaches. I've learned to use only SA parts. If you can't find them local, check out ebikestop.com for good prices and service.
 
If you dont have the sturmey cable , the shimano indexing cable with the linear wire in the jacket works just fine =)
 
Assimilating.
Thanks guys.
I'm was actually thinking of positioning the shifter on the seat tube for a novel approach; but may discard the idea for practical reasons...
 
Hmmmm....I am seeing that many of these hubs have a selector guide for the indicator chain as well as a fulcrum "arm" (instead of the chainstay "fulcrum clip") that bolts onto the axle (under the axle nut).
Primarily I'm wondering if the selector guide is an important component; as the hub I have does not have one.
I have taken it apart (the hub) and reassembled (Tip of the hat to Sheldon Brown) it: It is in great shape internally.
 
DogsBody said:
Hmmmm....I am seeing that many of these hubs have a selector guide for the indicator chain as well as a fulcrum "arm" (instead of the chainstay "fulcrum clip") that bolts onto the axle (under the axle nut).
Primarily I'm wondering if the selector guide is an important component; as the hub I have does not have one.
I have taken it apart (the hub) and reassembled (Tip of the hat to Sheldon Brown) it: It is in great shape internally.
Bumping the above...
 
ej599 said:
You have to use an Sturmey 3 speed indexing shifter on the right side just like a 3 speed. Then use a 10 speed style friction shifter on the left to work the bell arm.

Here's a bike I buit using this set up:

http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic. ... =+hercules

http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic. ... =+hercules
I was under the impression that the "Sprinter" 5-speed only needs a single 5 spd. indexed shifter to operate.
At least that's what Sheldon is telling me: The assembly instructions were bang-on; so I'm assuming the rest is accurate...
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-arc ... nter5.html
 
u can get a lever or they make a twist grip as well..

as far as the little fulcrum wheel.. they shipped mine with both the little wheel in the cap thingy and the old style "nut with holes in it" and instructions that covered both as well as several types of shifters.... :roll:
 
scrumblero said:
u can get a lever or they make a twist grip as well..

as far as the little fulcrum wheel.. they shipped mine with both the little wheel in the cap thingy and the old style "nut with holes in it" and instructions that covered both as well as several types of shifters.... :roll:
Gotcha.
Going to do some ordering.
Not a big fan of grip shifts; gonna go with a lever methinks: Levers can be braze-on mounted wherever one wants...and I have some ideas... :wink:
 
ej599 said:
You have to use an Sturmey 3 speed indexing shifter on the right side just like a 3 speed. Then use a 10 speed style friction shifter on the left to work the bell arm.

that's the old style, twin cable jobbie. they've made another since then...is yours 1970s or thereabouts?

if it helps, you can use a three speed shifter to operate the LHS cable :wink:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top