threadless headset question

[More_Cowbell]

Does anyone know what type unthreaded headset design provides a tighter/stronger fit for triple clamp forks - one with a compression ring or one without? If the compression ring design is better, does it matter what material the ring is made of? (metal, plastic, rubber). Cartidge bearings?

I am using a new unthreaded with a rubber compression ring and I can't seem to get it tight enough so there's no play. It's a 1" headset which likely doenst help.

 

[user 135]

Re: unthreaded headset question

It it called a Threadless Headset. :wink:

I don't think it matters on the design too much. Especially using 1" as there are very few options out there. Getting the proper tension in the system is key. You may not be getting it tight enough if the steertube is cut a little too long. On a triple tree set-up, you would keep the top tree part loose then tension the top cap on the headset to get rid of the play. Then tighten down the triple tree on the fork legs and steer tube. If you are using a stem tighten that last.

Read the Park Tool tutorial completely for a good explanation. You may even have to cut the steer tube ever so slightly too.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

 

[More_Cowbell]

Re: unthreaded headset question

hmm... I'm pretty certain it's installed correctly. The star nut tightens up fine and the right spacers are in there .... but there still is some squishy play in the top cup/race part.

I cant help but think its the rubber expander flexing... or maybe the top cup is a mismatch.

 

[Wolf]

Whilst it is difficult for anyone to diagnose without seeing the set up, one possible problem which would likely cause the symptoms you describe is that the cups are not aligned to each other. If the top cup is misaligned then the rubber compression ring will distort as the cone is 'twisted' by the axial compression forces. however under radial loads from braking etc this would show up as a loose headset due to the rubber compression rings lack of rigidity.

The answer to your question is that ideally, assuming all components are acrurately machined and aligned, the system should not need a compression ring. However as most production bicycle components are not precise- especialy steerer tubes- the compression ring design allows for some compensation for small misalignments/inaccuracies.

 

[More_Cowbell]

I managed to reseat the cups and it's a bit better. I'm hoping it settles down with a few rides and won't need replacement. I realize now it's a quite cheap quality headset. Thank you for the replies.

 

[socal_jack]

Something you may want to try, which I like better than star nuts and for DH mtbs with triple clamp type forks probably a necessity is a headlock type tightener. Especially with alloy steerer tubes and star nuts, the steel wins every time. If the star nut is already installed it won't work(without drilling the center of it) and you'd have to swap the top cap but here's what they look like, this one is by Azonic but I've seen cheap versions on ebay;

Basically it pulls from the bottom of the steerer tube to the top, a much surer connection than star nuts(I don't even use those anymore). I used one of these on the bike below to cure the same problem but it was a 1 1/8" steerer so it fit without messing around.