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MattiThundrrr

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More like "Pro Wrench Tip" this is a great one:
230824-IMG-3031.jpeg

"when using that crank puller, make sure you grease the threads on the tool, then thread in by hand till snug, then use adjustable wrench to snug down tight before you turn in the outside nut which actually removes the crank.
Otherwise, you will have stripped threads on your crank arm for sure. Your tool is steel, the crank is aluminum, very soft".
 

us56456712

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I bought a gallon of ph down at the thrift store for $30. The label said it was phosphoric acid. It’s $45 a gallon new. Phosphoric acid removes rust and changes it to iron phosphate. I diluted it enough to cover a frame, probably 10-15 to 1 with water. It removed the frame paint and bleached my blue fork white. It works fast. Overnight you see it working and 3-4 days seems to do it. I’m leaving it in longer to see if it removes more paint. Phosphoric acid is the industrial gold standard for dipping large pieces for rust removal. Car bodies are sometimes dipped as it gets in places where blasting won’t, plus it leaves the iron phosphate rust inhibiting coat. It will still rust after a few days so I use the Ospho and paint. Next I’ll rinse it and put on a thin wash of Ospho rust treatment. Then whatever finish I have laying around.
B531A403-262E-4606-8EC6-338EC468783D.jpeg
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0072C057-E2E3-4162-BE3E-646A7A970DC7.jpeg
 
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I have
A Wald 13/16 inch replacement 15 1/2 inch long seat post. These suckers are light and bend. I believe it’s 3/8 inch galvanized plumbing pipe I use to reinforce it. Cut off threads on one end, remove burs, slather the galvanized pipe with JB Weld to act as a lubricant, place the seat post on a wood block and spend about 10 minutes hammering the galvanized pipe into the seat post. Cut off what you can’t hammer in. I got about 12 inches in. Alternately you can bench grind a little off the plumbing pipe. View attachment 225188
View attachment 225189
 

us56456712

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I bought a gallon of ph down at the thrift store for $30. The label said it was phosphoric acid. It’s $45 a gallon new. Phosphoric acid removes rust and changes it to iron phosphate. I diluted it enough to cover a frame, probably 10-15 to 1 with water. It removed the frame paint and bleached my blue fork white. It works fast. Overnight you see it working and 3-4 days seems to do it. I’m leaving it in longer to see if it removes more paint. Phosphoric acid is the industrial gold standard for dipping large pieces for rust removal. Car bodies are sometimes dipped as it gets in places where blasting won’t, plus it leaves the iron phosphate rust inhibiting coat. It will still rust after a few days so I use the Ospho and paint. Next I’ll rinse it and put on a thin wash of Ospho rust treatment. Then whatever finish I have laying around.View attachment 231966 View attachment 231967 View attachment 231968
Almost all the paint came off in the phosphoric acid dip. I used a torch to burn the small amount remaining and it’s back in the phosphoric acid to see if that helps.
8CAC3E40-ABBA-4CE4-882F-585045CB739D.jpeg
 
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Headbadge removal with less worry...

Grab a steel soup can, cut a section, drill holes just large enough for the rivet heads to pass through. Zip-tie your new 'headbadge armor' to the bike's headtube and proceed to grind or file away the rivet heads, then pop the badge free. Once removed, the now-headless rivet remnants can either twisted out or driven through the tube with a punch.

can slice.jpg
 

MattiThundrrr

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I've also used armor like that to protect the BB shell when I hacked the crank with a Dremel to do a quick and dirty single speed conversion. Zip ties sound better than my taped up solution
 

MattiThundrrr

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Also, the good doctor offered his remedy for tricky rivets:
I’ve removed badge rivets by using a 90 degree bent awl pressing the tip against the bit of rivet that extends into the headtube and pushing the rivet out enough to grab the head with some locking needle nose pliers, then twist counter clockwise while pulling.
It can be a bit ‘tedious’ but it preserves the badge
 
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