Tips n Trix

[Wildcat]

I shoulda used a nicer looking piece of wood.

 

[ifitsfreeitsforme]

I created this as a reply on the CABE, but figure it's worth sharing here, too. Drill a small (1/6-3/32") hole at the tip of some dollar store duckbill tweezers. These tiny hollows permit the tweezers to grasp loose bearings, rather than send them flying across the room, under your bench, and into the netherworld. I got the idea after watching a locksmith re-key a lock with new pins. Same concept--different design.

View attachment 178339

I wiped out my local CVS of these Friday and will be modifying them for my bike buddies for little Christmas present.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Seat post hardware for banana seat stay attachment….

I might need that in a few months. Thanx, Unc

 

[Old guy]

I shoulda used a nicer looking piece of wood.

That’s okay because we all live and learn. You can use a nicer piece of wood next time.
Years ago I built a recumbent with a wood beam as the main support. It was a good ride. Regards #DataDiggerDon

 

[Uncle Ookie]

View attachment 178954
I might need that in a few months. Thanx, Unc

It’s for the family!! i appreciate what’s happening with this space.

Works on seat or chain stays…. Can be slid up or down the stay to suit the length of the banana seat stay…. This tech allows those really short (kids) stays (which, as we know from short spokes, are actually stronger) to be reborn in a new life! The seat hardware clamp can be found in black, nickle, etc (for that xtra fastidious ratsy designer)…The clamp can be extremely tenacious!...i’ve used tubing to protect (that dudes) paint (as if, my fleet) then go back w/xacto to tidy up. (Note that this clamp tech Not recc. for carbon fibre)

Onward bike warriors!

 

[RustySprockets]

Has anybody not considered these for their toolbox?

Designed for barbed-wire fencing, they are actually very handy for scroungers like us. I use them all the time when raiding the scrap bin--the side cutters are perfect for snipping through old spokes. Save the fancy tools for repair work....these are my wrecking ball!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

That's a good one, was struggling with some old brake cables the other day. Added to the wish list

 

[Couch tater]

I keep a stack of neodymium magnets on the side of my tool box. They come in handy for positioning chain guards and fenders during a mock up. The best use of them is when removing or installing a fork with loose ball bearings, I'll stick a few around the lower cup to keep the bearings from falling to the floor, never to be seen again.

 

[RustySprockets]

I love magnets, too! Just make sure your workspace is impeccably clean, lest you attract metal filings along with the bearings. I keep an old hard drive magnet in a sour cream cup to collect all those wayward slivers--they stick to the bottom of the cup until the magnet is removed. Shockingly simple!

 

[hamqqea]

I'm in the anti-magnet club They seem to attract junk on component surfaces that must be free of metallic specks. I do place Saran plastic wrap between magnets and surfaces with iron filings making it easier to clean the dang magnets off! Holding stuff in place for mock up can be useful tho.

However, this particular Sunlite premium synthetic grease holds loose bearings in place TOO well. It's incredibly sticky, practically a damping grease. NOT be used on performances bicycles anywhere IMO.
Should read, protects great by slowing you down. Ideal for rat rods.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Felt a itch... my ball was to stuck to my arm!

Hot summer nights in the Hamster Garage...

 

[hamqqea]

One of my most valued tools for removing grips. Merely a thin fairly hardened piece of metal to work/slip between the grip and bar to apply a lubricant such a glass cleaner. Works like a charm, can't live without it.

Boiling water works wonders on old stubborn hard grips to be reused. The pot can be brought to the bike for removal, tilt bike to submerge bar/grips.

Acetone is great for preparing bar surfaces to install grips. Can be used to clean the inside of the grips as well via stick and rag. Must push the harder type grips on with confidence. The grip could easily stick midway from the bar end. It won't come off without hot water again.
Pure glass cleaner is perfect to install many modern softer type grips without an air compressor.

Note: Water should NOT be present during the installation process. Grips will take far longer or never fully grab with even the smallest amounts of water around. Surfaces should be completely dry and clean before applying any evaporation type lube. Ammonia free glass cleaners should work fine.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Glass cleaner is perfect to install many modern softer type grips without an air compressor.

I use finesse hairspray. It smells nice

 

[hamqqea]

Haven't used hairspray. I've heard of using WD40 which is strange to me. Kind of take pride in my grip installation, yeah weird, but my grips never let go. Why I felt compelled to post.

 

[Uncle Ookie]

Maybe some one said?… Isopropyl Alcohol, high proof… avoids what….was it…. @MattiThundrrr was noting the bogus water trap? High Iso Vapes away and leaves them in place

iso works for removal and application… i use a spoke sharpened shiv to inject that iso deep

 

[hamqqea]

Just performed a side by side to see how high a proof alcohol is necessary.
Prepared both sides with the same alcohol cotton pad.

Within 10 minutes the Glass Plus side fully grabbed. Over an hour later and the alcohol side still spins freely half way.
What did I learn? 91% isn't high enough if I need to get my ride on in a hurry. Has to be 99.9% to be truly effective I believe. Glass cleaner is one means. Ammonia is suppose to be the active ingredient and I had though it was included in Glass Plus, but it's not. Cleaners have gone ammonia free. Will try 99.9% when I get some.

 

[RustySprockets]

Hamppea, is that a windshield wiper insert you're using as the probe? GREAT IDEA! I'm going to make one of those right now, while it's fresh in my mind.

I've been using a medical squeeze bottle to squirt alcohol between the bar and grip (without spilling it all over creation). It works for me, but I'll try the glass cleaner.

 

[SwissGuy]

If you decide to drill it and need help keeping it centered here is a cheap way to center a drilled hole on round tubing using an electrical ground clamp for pipe. Just remove the screw and size the bit to match the hole in the ground clamp, you can always enlarge later if needed. The hole in the ground clamp is barely 1/4". By matching the size of the hole the bit will stay centered and the tall shoulder on the clamp will keep it straight. In the photo I am drilling 3/4" tubing on a drill press but if you buy a 1/2" ground clamp it should tighten down enough and a hand drill will work fine. Not knowing the thickness of the metal you are working with there may be a chance that drilling the additional holes will weaken it.

A very good way to keep a drill centered on round stuff if you do not have a vice and drill stand.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

I trimmed the fork tube to fit and took pics to show how to do that.

1. Thread the top nut on before using a hacksaw to cut the end of the threads off. Leave about an inch or so above the nut for the washer and bearing nut.

2. use a small file to clean up the rough edges where it was cut, inside and out.

Back off the bearing nut so it cleans up the threads. Don't take it off, just go back and forth over the end threads to get them going smoothly.
This will make it possible to thread the top nut on easily.
I made the fork threads a touch too long, so I just added an extra washer

 

[The Juan]

A very good way to keep a drill centered on round stuff if you do not have a vice and drill stand.
View attachment 181769

Diggin' it. I use square tubing on round pieces