Trike make over.

[Ed Stately]

Another build I've been contemplating but was having trouble with the original rear axel and differential. But I was given this Worksman 2 person side by side trike and I'm not a 2 person. And it's big, heavy and very awkward to ride especially because it came without seats. I'll hang on to the frame but lot's of these parts are going on my other trike frame. Both axels, wheels, for sure one of the nexus 3 speed hubs, possibly both if what I'm picturing in my head will work. That center plate/Hanger bearings idea is genius. Don't won't a single one piece axel and this eliminates the need for a differential, but may end up a one wheel wonder. But maybe not. So started making a parts pile for this one as well.

 

[Ed Stately]

Ok, I have the worksman almost torn down. The BB's have sealed bearings pressed in. So have to figure a way to remove them without damaging anything if possible.

It looks like I'll be cutting the rear end off it to graft onto the Free Spirit rearend. Need to decide if I

Weld it underneath which will lift the reaend about 3-4"s.

Welding in the center so the axels are located where the original axels were.

Weld it on top of the existing frame which will lower the rearend 3-4"s.

Close up of the original axel location.

 

[Ed Stately]

The 2 pop-up adds are really bumming me out. I'm on a cellphone not a computer so really getting in the way.

Anyways. I'm still trying to figure out how to use both rear 3 speed hubs so it will be a sort of posi rear axels.
Has anyone ever done what I'm about to try describe?

Thinking 3 piece crank but with a sprocket on both sides. 2 chains running back to the hubs with the smaller secondary chains from hubs to the axels.

And then so I don't have to have two shifters, use the brake cable set-up used for the freestyle BMX bikes to run a single cable from the shifter to split and one go to the left hub and the other to the right hub. So control both hubs with one shifter.

Thoughts?

 

[Ed Stately]

The 2 pop-up adds are really bumming me out. I'm on a cellphone not a computer so really getting in the way.

Anyways. I'm still trying to figure out how to use both rear 3 speed hubs so it will be a sort of posi rear axels.
Has anyone ever done what I'm about to try describe?

Thinking 3 piece crank but with a sprocket on both sides. 2 chains running back to the hubs with the smaller secondary chains from hubs to the axels.
View attachment 280117
And then so I don't have to have two shifters, use the brake cable set-up used for the freestyle BMX bikes to run a single cable from the shifter to split and one go to the left hub and the other to the right hub. So control both hubs with one shifter.
View attachment 280118
Thoughts?

I think I found a simpler solution. Not so much guess work. I can use a single hub one 1 axel and a freewheel sprocket on the other axel. Still use the duel front sprocket and duel chains. But just 1 shifter for the rear. Should work. Still curious about that gyro brake cable set up though.

 

[Ed Stately]

2 different size front wheels. And a mock-up of the rear axel placement for stance.
Fork is from a OCC/Stingray Jr chopper. 1st set of 3 pictures is with a 20" front wheel and 24" Rear wheels. And 3 axel height placements.

Axel above the frame will be about 3-4"s lower then stock.

Axel in the stock position.

Axel below the frame. Frame is about 3-4"s higher then stock.

Same set up as above but with a 26" front wheel.

Below frame.

Stock position.

On top of frame.

 

[68z27]

Ed, regarding the last group of 3 pics (with 26" wheel), are the "Below frame" and "On top of the frame" photos the same? or is it just my eyesight?
Note: so far diggin' the 24" wheel, maybe because the wheel has some wide tire action going on..............

 

[Ed Stately]

Ed, regarding the last group of 3 pics (with 26" wheel), are the "Below frame" and "On top of the frame" photos the same? or is it just my eyesight?
Note: so far diggin' the 24" wheel, maybe because the wheel has some wide tire action going on..............

You are correct. I went back and forth with the 2 pop-up ads while trying to insert the attachments. I think I deleted and reattach them all 4 or 5 times. Thanks. I'll get that switched.
I had the top photo captioned wrong as well. Should be correct now.

 

[BDC]

Nice - as a Pro Member you can hide the ads - setting is in your preferences.

 

[Ed Stately]

Nice - as a Pro Member you can hide the ads - setting is in your preferences.

Awesome. Best news I've gotten since I was served my last divorce papers. Thank you.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Nice Tryke(s)!! I have a couple questions about the rear wheels and the way they attach- Do they have bearings in the hubs? Do they attach directly to the axle itself? Does the keyway groove play a part in securing them, and if so, in what way? Finally, are both wheels attached the same way? I ask because My Tryke has hubs that slide on to the axle, are held in position by the keyway slot, and are pinned in place/held on by a kotter pin that goes thru a hole in the axle itself. Oh yeah, my rear hubs have no bearings in them. Mine also has a diff/pumpkin and either wheel can be the forward motion driving/power source. I appreciate any time spent in answering. Thanks.

 

[Ed Stately]

Nice Tryke(s)!! I have a couple questions about the rear wheels and the way they attach- Do they have bearings in the hubs? Do they attach directly to the axle itself? Does the keyway groove play a part in securing them, and if so, in what way? Finally, are both wheels attached the same way? I ask because My Tryke has hubs that slide on to the axle, are held in position by the keyway slot, and are pinned in place/held on by a kotter pin that goes thru a hole in the axle itself. Oh yeah, my rear hubs have no bearings in them. Mine also has a diff/pumpkin and either wheel can be the forward motion driving/power source. I appreciate any time spent in answering. Thanks.

I will take detailed pictures and post them. There are 2 axels. Both wheels spin freely on their own bearings. And are only propelled by their own 3 speed Coaster Hub. If I'm sitting on the left riding alone only the left hub is ingaged the right side just coasts. Ill have to look closer at the keyway slot. This is new to me. The stock rear end is a 34" wide 1" axels with a rear differential and 28h hubs through bolted to their axel. Theve rust welded themselves to the axel. This set up has the main thing I wanted to do to the original. Make it wider. I'm planing on digging out the original differential and see about modifying these axel ends to work. Also glad I waited to cut the worksman frame. I want to cut it so I can extend the overall length about 6". Keep forgetting its a 24" frame and I'm 6'1" and 240lbs. Also decided to cut the seat post tube way down and reposition the seat back further and lower so its halfway to being recumbent. Big bib plans. Lol. I'll post close detailed pictures of the rearend for you by morning.

 

[Ed Stately]

Nice Tryke(s)!! I have a couple questions about the rear wheels and the way they attach- Do they have bearings in the hubs? Do they attach directly to the axle itself? Does the keyway groove play a part in securing them, and if so, in what way? Finally, are both wheels attached the same way? I ask because My Tryke has hubs that slide on to the axle, are held in position by the keyway slot, and are pinned in place/held on by a kotter pin that goes thru a hole in the axle itself. Oh yeah, my rear hubs have no bearings in them. Mine also has a diff/pumpkin and either wheel can be the forward motion driving/power source. I appreciate any time spent in answering. Thanks.

Here's a couple few closeups

Each axel spins freely from the other not the wheel hubs.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Thanx for that! My Tryke has a couple similarities to your'n and I'm having the damndest time figgerin' just how to solve the biggest issue I still have, re-doin' the wheels. It is really the hubs being so different from many, or rather, ANY out there, so no parts. But I think maybe a CNC-machine shop could do it, what's that gonna run for machining a pair of hubs, I wonder? Thought of goin' to a welder, but... either way custom.

 

[Ed Stately]

Thanx for that! My Tryke has a couple similarities to your'n and I'm having the damndest time figgerin' just how to solve the biggest issue I still have, re-doin' the wheels. It is really the hubs being so different from many, or rather, ANY out there, so no parts. But I think maybe a CNC-machine shop could do it, what's that gonna run for machining a pair of hubs, I wonder? Thought of goin' to a welder, but... either way custom.

Part of why I decided to replace the rear-end all together. 2.5 years looking for rear wheels that would work and nothing. 3/4" axel with a differential was a 1st year only (1976) set up. After that they changed to a 15mm straight solid axel and a single larger bottom bar. This is the original differential. The end of each axel is mill flat on each side and that gear just slid on.

Before the worksman fell into my lap, I was looking at riding lawnmower rear ends and was almost ready to get one on ebay to monkey with.

 

[Ed Stately]

Thanx for that! My Tryke has a couple similarities to your'n and I'm having the damndest time figgerin' just how to solve the biggest issue I still have, re-doin' the wheels. It is really the hubs being so different from many, or rather, ANY out there, so no parts. But I think maybe a CNC-machine shop could do it, what's that gonna run for machining a pair of hubs, I wonder? Thought of goin' to a welder, but... either way custom.

Also, Harbor Freight sells a 3/4 or 1" axels with a differential made by Peerless for Go-Karts. About $150 and you'd need to change the sprocket.

 

[curtisfox]

https://www.staton-inc.com/store/dr...series-3/4-od-x-39-7/16-long-100-007b-794652/ ..........Curt

 

[Ed Stately]

https://www.staton-inc.com/store/dr...series-3/4-od-x-39-7/16-long-100-007b-794652/ ..........Curt

That's the same brand harbor freight has. Still may end up going that route myself.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

https://www.staton-inc.com/store/dr...series-3/4-od-x-39-7/16-long-100-007b-794652/ ..........Curt

This was a helluva rabbit-hole, I must say. The info is solid! All kinds of neat stuff to ponder @Staton. So far the rear of my Tryke is relatively good, with the exception of the wheels, and to fix that issue I either re-lace the beasty current hubs w/new 24" 28hole hoops, which are not real common, or have hubs custom-made with whatever spoke set-up I like and am able to match to hoops I want to use. I have seen some rears that use gearbox adapters or offset drive attachments on the outside ends of the axles and that looks like it just complicates stuff. My hubs are so directly mounted that they dont even have bearings, and it seems there are NONE on the market to replace them, hence the thought that I'll have to go have them purpose made, CNC'd or welded/fabbed. My biggest hold-up is I don't know anyone in that kind of work, 'cause I hate paying retail for anything if I can get it for less. I'm not "cheap" per se, but "thrifty" or "frugal" hardly describes me.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

If you are at all interested, I could put up some better pics of the rear of mine if you wanted to see. It sounds like you have yours pretty much figured out, but maybe an idea might jump out, set-up wise.

 

[Ed Stately]

If you are at all interested, I could put up some better pics of the rear of mine if you wanted to see. It sounds like you have yours pretty much figured out, but maybe an idea might jump out, set-up wise.

Absolutely. I've done that in the past and ended up combining elements from several versions. Always eager to learn new stuff.