Trike make over.

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

The rivets that I used to hold the sprocket are starting to twist a bit

Keyway in axle and punch in hub. Both rear wheel hubs. Slide on and kotterpin 'em

 

[curtisfox]

I see flange bearing in the end of the axle tubs, and I think I am seeing pop rivets, I think you need something more substalcial then pop rivets to hold the sprocket, they are soft............Curt

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.

 

[Ed Stately]

Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.

No problem whatsoever. I'm not an internet snob.

 

[Ed Stately]

Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.

Dug up one of the original axels. 3/4" diameter. About 18" long. The hub is so rusted in place I doubt it would need the through bolt anymore.

 

[Jeffery A. Hunt]

Wow, so that's the hub with a short half-axle still in it, and the double flats slide into the rear diff gear that was in the other pix, right? There is no keyway slot in the axle so no need for the punch in the hub to hold it, other than that hole in the flanged side of the hub, so just a bolt or pin thru that hole and then thru the short axle? That is the hub that spokes would be laced into with the hoops for the rear wheel, right? Just being sure that's what I'm looking at. So what I'm realizing here is that every one of these older Trykes might actually be unique from one another, and only similar in really random instances, other than having 3 wheels in common. No wonder it's been so hard to locate any "spare parts" with these having such broadly varying specs. And here I was thinking that if I could I.D. the bike brand that built with the rear assembly I have, that would surely be all revealing, not knowing that Schwinn did not just use one source for parts, changed parts altogether a couple times, had different models necessitating various install methods, and outsourced some of the assembly/install/build. I guess these are the kind of things that make this hobby interesting, or "The torture never stops!"

 

[curtisfox]

Yes, my rivets are not as strong as they could be, but in my defense, I had no idea what I was doing when I built that jack-axle for it. Amazingly, it worked out the first time. I will have to re-do it soon. I am not sure what you mean by "Flange bearing in the ends of the axle tubs". See how primative the hubs are?

BTW Ed, I'm sorry for hoggin' up space on your post, I was not trying to hi-jack you. My apologies.

Ace Hardwhere or just about any parts store, .........Curt, just be careful not to get to cheep of ones.

 

[Ed Stately]

Wow, so that's the hub with a short half-axle still in it, and the double flats slide into the rear diff gear that was in the other pix, right? There is no keyway slot in the axle so no need for the punch in the hub to hold it, other than that hole in the flanged side of the hub, so just a bolt or pin thru that hole and then thru the short axle? That is the hub that spokes would be laced into with the hoops for the rear wheel, right? Just being sure that's what I'm looking at. So what I'm realizing here is that every one of these older Trykes might actually be unique from one another, and only similar in really random instances, other than having 3 wheels in common. No wonder it's been so hard to locate any "spare parts" with these having such broadly varying specs. And here I was thinking that if I could I.D. the bike brand that built with the rear assembly I have, that would surely be all revealing, not knowing that Schwinn did not just use one source for parts, changed parts altogether a couple times, had different models necessitating various install methods, and outsourced some of the assembly/install/build. I guess these are the kind of things that make this hobby interesting, or "The torture never stops!"

You are correct just a nut and bolt through the inner Flange. That is the hub roster to the axel andnthe double flat end inside the diff held in place by a clip. Indo like that the cog on the rear diff uses the 4 carriage bolts that hold the diff halves together. Easy replacement if you need to repair or even change sizes up or down. Not sure what I'm going to do with it now, but I'm sure I think of something. This was on a 1976 Murray built Sears and Roebuck Free Spirit Ted Williams Jr. Special Edition. 1st year and other then the shifter handlebars and tunes and tires are completely different then the ones built later.