Two Brooks questions not found through searching!

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Location
Tulsa, OK
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Believe it or not, despite being a subject beaten to death, I can't find either of these two questions via the search feature so here we go...

Question #1:
Since a Brooks saddle is a pricey investment, how do you secure them or guard against theft?

Question #2:
The "Aged" models seem like the way to go for immediate comfort, can anybody confirm/compare?


And in case anybody can offer insight or suggestions, I am trying to decide between the Aged Flyer and the Aged B67. It will be going on my Kona A'ha board track project. The issue is that I will likely be flipping my handle bars from the traditional, lower board track position to the more upright position depending on the type of riding I want to be doing that day. I would imagine I will use both positions 50/50. That said, I would think the B67 would be more fitting for the raised bar position, and the Flyer more so for the lowered bar position. I'm in a conundrum of sorts.
 
I've never thought about theft protection, but you could use a small cable and lock the seat frame to your bike frame, or even better, grind the tightening nuts round along with the seat post tightening nut, that way it couldn't be unbolted without vice grips or cutting the bolts. You could also put a cheap gel cover over it when parked.
 
I'm likely going to use a brooks saddle for my board track project. I just love them - I have a B17 on my Rockhopper commuter, and have been amazed at it's comfort from day 1. As far as security goes, I use a simple seat leash that I picked up at REI. Loops around the frame, then installs on around the clamp/seat interface. And, yeah, it would be easy to steal with the quick release on the clamp. My board tracker won't have a quick release, so I'm not as concerned with it, but it seems that a seat leash would work just the same.

I'll be going with the Flyer on my board tracker. The B67 is a little wide for a performance/less upright stance, I think. Although the ladies B67 might be just the saddle needed for my wife's Silver King.
 
Only so much you can do of course...but no quick release on post, running a cable lock through the rails, and covering (even with a plastic bag) would all help greatly. You don`t want the saddle to get wet anyway....
 
I was also thinking about theft, but I never leave my bikes out of site. I was thinking you can just remove the "Brooks" plate or add a sticker plate that says "Bell". :mrgreen:
 
all the cute kids take a shortened length of drive-chain and loop it thru the saddle rails and the bike's frame, and "lock" it with a regular chain tool. Advantages: cheap/free protection; hard to bust thru without a chain-break tool. Disadvantages: easy to bust thru with a chain-break tool; will scratch paint. (but the cute kids love scratched paint, so...)

Ihave a thin cable that i loop thru the rail and connect to my u-lock. Hasn't failed me yet. A gel or plastic cover is genius; gotta start doing that, too.

-rob
 
I'm addicted to the Wrights saddles, which are almost identical to the Brooks. The nice thing about these is the front spring. You can thread your cable lock thru it and around your frame.

Spin

100_0449-3.jpg
 
My Raleigh Sojourn came with the aged Brooks. Works fine, but I don't have any experience with regular Brooks to compare it to.

On theft..just don't leave it unattended for long.
 
I have a Felt Slater with an aged B67 and Lemans with a Flyer. Both bikes have upright bars and wile the saddles are different, they're equally comfortable on long rides. You will definitely want the Flyer or any of the B17 varieties if you are going to do any riding with the bars flipped. I tried the B67 on a New Belgium which has lower bars and found it to be unrideable with such a broad saddle. (yes the stock NB seat is awful too)

As to the aged saddle breaking in faster, I can’t say that they settle in all that much faster. The lacing on the aged saddles is neat looking and will keep the lower flanks of the saddle from splaying out. Don’t expect the aged finish to last. After riding a hundred miles it will look identical to the standard polished dark brown finish. I have found that all of the Brooks saddles that I own broke in very fast. Perhaps the drenching humidity in southern Louisiana has something to do with that. IDK
 
spinman said:
I'm addicted to the Wrights saddles, which are almost identical to the Brooks. The nice thing about these is the front spring. You can thread your cable lock thru it and around your frame.

Spin

Brooks still makes some saddles with front loops like the Wrights pictured. Check out the b.33, the b.190, and the b.135.

-rob
 
Seat security, this may need you to modify your frame.

If your frame has water bottle mounts on the seat tube, you are golden, if not you will probably have to drill a hole in the seat tube and tap it to accept an allen or torx bolt/screw.

Get a length of steel cable, make a loop in one end. Fish it down into your seat tube, you may need to use a wooden dowel to position it as you screw in a screw through the water bottle hole or one you made long enough to go through the loop in the cable. Fish the cable through the seat post and install it in the seat tube. Push some of the cable down into the seat post/seat tube so you will have some slack inside. Install your saddle and loop the cable out of the top of the seat tube and around your saddle, either securing it with a small lock or crimping a loop in the top of the cable.
 
Bicycle808 said:
Disadvantages: easy to bust thru with a chain-break tool; will scratch paint. (but the cute kids love scratched paint, so...)

Ihave a thin cable that i loop thru the rail and connect to my u-lock. Hasn't failed me yet. A gel or plastic cover is genius; gotta start doing that, too.

All you have to do is run the chain through a section of road bike tube. Then seal it up with tape. Ugly but it works. They are great for touring/road/mtb bikes or other bikes you will be putting a lot of miles on. Thin cables can be cut in second with a Park Tool cable cutter (even the thick cables).

Most cruiser and fixie kids use them for looks. Sometimes paying stupid money for someone elses worn out/in saddle.

The aged saddles are softer, break in quicker, and probably won't last as long (we don't know because they are still "new"). If you get a standard Brooks saddle and break it in, using proofhide, it will be the best saddle you ever have! Some of the models even come with a cover for wet days.
 
I think Brooks are subjective. If you go to your mirror and look at your rear and it might still look acceptable in Spandex ,then your a Brooks candidate. If the answer is no way , then you will be like me and hate them. They never become the big cushie comfortable seat that you find you need. Trust me I still have a Brooks imprint on my rear.....150 mile breakin....Baloney! You might as well carve you a seat out of a pine 2x6. :wink: This is just my opinion though. :lol: :lol: Oh and by the way...just leather is not comfortable . When was the last time you saw a cow sit down. They have it stock and prefer to stand.
 
I used a Brooks b-17 on my mountain bike and once I broke it in it was the most comfortable seat i ever had on it. Mind you the seating position is totally different from a cruiser bike. The saddle is a bit higher and the riding position is more bent over and leaning forward. I know they make "seat leashes" that use a small braided cable to keep the saddle locked to the frame. They won't stop a real thief, but will prevent most of the casual snatch and run types.
op6d.jpg

PS I'm using a Brooks B72 on my OP Special and so far it feels pretty good. 8)
 
Where I live (chch, nz) and in my experience, people dont know the value of older bikes and old bike parts. I had put a brooks on my mountain bike and it was stolen from school, it was returned complete within a week. The bike was barely worth %5 (bent cranks, non-functioning brakes etc. I was proud of it)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top