What fenders do people use for dual spring monark springer?

[1959firearrow]

I bought a dual spring monark springer for a rat cwc build I'm doing. Anways I have yet to find a set of fenders off any of my parts bikes that work I tried some cwc fenders( with both curved and straight braces) and I tried a set of a Monark Rocket rocket with a truss rod fork. They all rub or just plain don't fit the fork where the braces mount. Do i need to run the super deep monark fenders? I was really hoping to keep my gothic style peaked fenders. What have you guys used? Maybe I should build my own braces? Post pics too if you can! Thanks

 

[Harold_B]

Might not be what you had in mind but I used a rear Nirve mini skirt, cut it to length on the front edge and then made my own braces. The piece that was cut off the front made a handy template to trace the inside profile of the fender on a 2x4. I used that to form the braces. The fork is a Felt Abraham not a Monarch but hopefully close enough. The way it is now the fender is fixed. That is it doesn't move with the wheel when I hit a bumb. I might re-attach the braces so that it does and that way I can get the fender closer to the tire. Should mention that I needed to cut out clearance for the forks since the rears isn't kinked for a fork.

 

[1959firearrow]

What you did with the fender brace where (it has for lack of a better word) the "extension" is exactly the idea i had in mind if no one could come up with a fender that just flat out worked with this springer. This would allow me to keep my current fenders and braces but I would like to intergrate that to flow better with the lines of the bike. Thanks for the pic though as now I can see my idea would work out if I had to. Nice bike by the way!

 

[Harold_B]

Thanks. It's a work in progress that I doubt will ever be "finished". I'm looking forward to seeing what others have done so I can improve mine. The braces on there now are the third iteration or so and are getting closer to what I have in mind. I have a ton of pics of old bikes that I draw ideas from but given a limited means of actually forming metal I can only come close. This is an old Simplex fender setup that I like for the light and the brace, there's just no way for me to get that smooth bend at the bottom:

 

[1959firearrow]

Thats my problem to I cant really form metal. Brace in that pic is more what I had in mind, I was gonna see if I could take some 1/2 steel or aluminum tubing and heat and bend the curve into it over a pre shaped peice of wood. Then hammer the ends flat for about an inch or two and drill the holes as neccesary to mount them up. All i've got are various bal peen hammers and your typical sledge and nail hammers. Butt since factory braces have that nice roll in them, wanted to see if where the hammered flat sections go back to round tube, if i could carefully with my small ball peen hammer a curved transition into it so the don't just look like i hammered the ends flat. Sounds crude but I'm gonna try this and see how it works out. My other Idea would be instead of a hole on both ends of the peice, have a hole at the one end and a slot about 1/2 in long where I could insert a short allen head with a nut on the back to allow the brace coming from the fender to the section going in between the spriner to slide in a way that way the fender could move and the springer would funtion better. Just ideas I've had floating around in my head. Let me know what you think.

 

[Harold_B]

Does it need to be one continuous piece? What if you were to shape the tubes so that they are curved the way you want and have them end where the transition would begin. Slightly flaten the tubing to make it flare but don't collapse it. Then take flat stock and shape it to fit the underside of the fender. Use a grinder to taper the flat stock so that it blends with the tube and a step so that it fits inside. Then use J-B Weld to secure the flat stock to the tubing and to blend the transition. I'd make one from aluminum to see if I like it (without investing a lot of effort into finishing) then make one from steel if I do. Perhaps the steel version could be welded instead of epoxied.

My concern on the one continuous part version you outlined would be that the tubing would need to be thin enough to flatten but thick enough to support a fender. Aluminum will fatigue if hammered out like that. I would not like to be cruising along and watch my front fender wad up into the wheel. But then my cruiser has an engine so vibration might not be a concern and you may not need as much support.