What fork/shocks to look for for a 49' DX Klunker project and other thoughts for a newb

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spleeft

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Ive been google searching and reading posts for the last couple of days and have some ideas but Id like to hear from you'all to get me going a little further.
I'm new to the retsoration / ratrod hobby but have been an avid mountain biker for 6 years now and ride a modern full sus 160 travel and love to hit it hard and steep. Ive been dabblin' around with old Schwinn middle weights for the last year but I'm dying to build a functional klunker for the trails ( instead of just adding a modern hardtail to my bike quiver like most mountain bikers ! )
Front shock -In keeping with the old / klunker vibe , I would like to find a worthy functional shock / fork for the front without flat out purchasing a new Fox / Rockshock. So Ive been looking at craigs list / etc for old full sus/mountain bikes ( which I know nothing about ) . What brand/types of shocks should I keep an eye out for and are worthy of using? I have no idea if I'll try and use a front brake! I'm not opposed to a rigid fork if turns out to be too much of a hassle.
Wheels / drive train- I love the Bendix two speed kickbacks and Ive rebuilt two so far, I want to use one and build some wheels with aluminum rims, and go with a solid upgrade for BB / cranks/ chain ring . Thoughts?
Look / colors are definitely a factor but even though I could just purchase all new anodized parts I'd like to stay true to klunking and do it as cheaply as possible !
Here's my staring point! Thanks for any help!
1949 Scwhinn frame.png
 
I agree with wheelbender6, and the Schwinn knee action springer is the style that would have been new with that frame. But for a few dollars more, a Monarch style springer rides and looks better, IMO.
Either would be good.
1639187022521.png

1639187117134.png
 
As long as we're getting into the exotica realm of 1" steerer tube suspension forks, adding Mert Lawill's Leader is significant as well.

Lawill.jpg


My original response of Rock Shox Mag 21 was based on best bang and performance for the buck. As far as any large production 1" steerer tube suspension fork goes, they are hard to mess with. The elastomer sprung offerings of the era are garbage, IMO. This is why there are really no elastomer sprung forks being produced anymore. Air/Oil is a time-proven suspension technology that is still being produced.
 
Lol I knew when I posted that Kona that someone would come back with the Lawill, that's why I loaded up an Amp image n my quiver
amp-research-amp-research-f1-suspension-fork-1-1-8.jpg

Now that's exotic! And KCI is totally correct about the Mag21s, they are the best vintage fork in my opinion. Rode specialized's version of one on my Hardrock for literally twenty years without any maintenance whatsoever. Only problem I ever encountered with it was on reassembly, I broke an internal part.
 
spleeft said:
really love the look but do you'all think it would hold up for actuall mountain biking on medium trails / jumps / drops as good of not better than an old RS Judy / etc or similar
Click to expand...
I would doubt that it could perform as good or better. That just isn't in the design parameters of the old springer. There is a guy building a trail bike for the Off Road Build Off with a rat trap springer, and he is doing miles of testing on it with good results. The Monark could survive, looks like a beefy design, could be fun, but it just can't keep up with the rockshok.
 
I've gathered some parts for this build and running into issues ( which solving is pretty much the fun / learning part right !? ). I found a new Sturmey Archer F-XD for 12g spokes drum hub for the front that I want to use to build my wheels ( found a Bendix YB for the rear). As an alternative to the springer fork mentioned above I was going to just use a Schwinn sidewinder fork that I have. Problem is the SA X FD is too wide ( 100mm hub width ) and the forks really have to stretch to fit. Also the brake cable and arm don't line up at all, not even close. What rigid forks do you'all recommend? Is this a common mismatch?
I'm not opposed to tyring to get a 1/8" modified headset but initially I need the normal 1" threaded forks.
Thanks any help
PS I know Im sort of all over the place with my questions in this thread , I can start new threads if needed.
 
Yeah, this one kinda got sidetracked when some joker posted hard to find vintage MTB suspension. Sorry about that. You could always start a build thread for the bike and post some pictures, or carry on here.
 
Forget any of the classic springer forks they won’t hold up and won’t track. Use something else. There supposed to be making a new version of the Bendix Yellow Band. I have one of the old ones and it has a lot more drag than a regular coaster, but they work. Two speeds really makes it more enjoyable. I think the best thing for you is a more modern front shock, not the 1990s pogo sticks. I have 4 klinkers and have had many more. They bounce out of your line and are hard to ride in rocks without front shocks. The chain stays are long and can be so long that you can almost stick your head in there. You can bend the seat post back or try and find a very long saddle. They are best ridden on intermediate trails and even here there were times where my coaster was smoking. A front brake, even a modern SA drum brake that is weak, will allow you to reduce speed in an emergency so you can make it. A front brake will also help to reduce coaster brake overheating. I always have a front brake on my coaster klunkers in case the chain breaks. If your frame has a head tube that accepts old school BMX headsets then it probably can be reamed and faced to accept 1 1/8 cups. I did this once but I have a complete set of bicycle threading and facing tools. Make sure the 1 1/8 fork tube fits into the one inch head tube, it should but it’s tight. This klunker of mine has very long chain stays and tight corners keep you on your toes, gotta go slow. It’s got 1950s Schwinn bolt on front cantilever brakes. These flat forged forks on this bike look cool but track poorly. All forged one piece forks I have tried track pretty bad.
70EE7E0D-B7CD-4A94-A213-D58DB0520DCF.jpeg
 
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spleeft said:
Thanks for these replies!
I googled "Monarch style springer" and came up with this, https://monarkforks.com/fork-store/forks/monark-springer-fork-replacement-springs-detail .
I really love the look but do you'all think it would hold up for actuall mountain biking on medium trails / jumps / drops as good of not better than an old RS Judy / etc or similar?
Click to expand...
No, quality varies, and if you get a good one it won’t have enough travel or dampening to be worth it. You could hurt yourself with one of these.
 
us56456712 said:
If your frame has a head tube that accepts old school BMX headsets then it probably can be reamed and faced to accept 1 1/8 cups. I did this once but I have a complete set of bicycle threading and facing tools. Make sure the 1 1/8 fork tube fits into the one inch head tube, it should but it’s tight.
Click to expand...
Its odd that there isn't a 1" to 1 1/8 " sealed bearing headset made specifically for this purpose? I think I can find someone local to my area to help me wi this. Which is more optimal, reducing the headset cup O.D or enlarging the headtube I. D?
And thanks for the newb help / replies !

EDIT
I love the Bendix 2 speed autos! I fudged my way through rebuilding one on my first old Swhinn project last winter and love riding that bike.

I 'll plan on looking at converting to a 1 1/8" with a modern fork or going with a rigid BMX /mountain bike fork that with work with the SA F XD
 
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us56456712 said:
Forget any of the classic springer forks they won’t hold up and won’t track. Use something else. There supposed to be making a new version of the Bendix Yellow Band. I have one of the old ones and it has a lot more drag than a regular coaster, but they work. Two speeds really makes it more enjoyable. I think the best thing for you is a more modern front shock, not the 1990s pogo sticks. I have 4 klinkers and have had many more. They bounce out of your line and are hard to ride in rocks without front shocks. The chain stays are long and can be so long that you can almost stick your head in there. You can bend the seat post back or try and find a very long saddle. They are best ridden on intermediate trails and even here there were times where my coaster was smoking. A front brake, even a modern SA drum brake that is weak, will allow you to reduce speed in an emergency so you can make it. A front brake will also help to reduce coaster brake overheating. I always have a front brake on my coaster klunkers in case the chain breaks. If your frame has a head tube that accepts old school BMX headsets then it probably can be reamed and faced to accept 1 1/8 cups. I did this once but I have a complete set of bicycle threading and facing tools. Make sure the 1 1/8 fork tube fits into the one inch head tube, it should but it’s tight. This klunker of mine has very long chain stays and tight corners keep you on your toes, gotta go slow. It’s got 1950s Schwinn bolt on front cantilever brakes. These flat forged forks on this bike look cool but track poorly. All forged one piece forks I have tried track pretty bad.View attachment 181250
Click to expand...
spleeft said:
Its odd that there isn't a 1" to 1 1/8 " sealed bearing headset made specifically for this purpose? I think I can find someone local to my area to help me wi this. Which is more optimal, reducing the headset cup O.D or enlarging the headtube I. D?
And thanks for the newb help / replies !
Click to expand...
I think there are or were 1 to 1 1/8 adapters but they are expensive. It’s been done without the adapter. I think bicycle808 on here posted how to do this without an adapter about 4 years ago. You can’t reduce the OD of the cups, the steel is too hard. If you have a 32.6 old school BMX style head tube it could be possible to ream it to 34. Quite a few of my old cruiser frames have 32.6 and the steel in the head tube can be quite robust. The reamer is over $100 and that doesn’t include the guide cones reamer holder, or t handles, probably can’t be bought for $300.
 
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