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I used a Hobson saddle like yours for a couple of years then found the Spiderflex. The Spiderflex is Hobson done right IMHO. Spiderflex has cutouts where your sitz bones go and this spreads out the load over a much bigger area. No saddle sores. Plus the Spiderflex has a very nice spring suspension, 20mm of travel. Makes a big difference. I use noseless saddles due to a prostatitis attack brought on by damage from the nose on my Brooks saddles. No more Brooks, all Spiderflex now. Your bike looks great. This Spiderflex is mounted on my RAD City.
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I was hoping to get some good shots at sunrise this morning only to wake to a very grey sky. Fortunately the rain held for a fast 2 hour ride along the city’s river trail. I recently modified the Shimano coaster on this bike by removing the balls from the cages, adding extra balls as well as chamfering the edges of the shoes. Reassembled everything using some decent grease and it now spins almost as well as a freewheel.
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I recently modified the Shimano coaster on this bike by removing the balls from the cages, adding extra balls as well as chamfering the edges of the shoes. Reassembled everything using some decent grease and it now spins almost as well as a freewheel.
Freeballing a coaster brake hub is always a win. The most difficult freeball I ever did was on a Sachs Torpedo kickback, but it was golden when done. Chamfering the shoes keeps the chatter down, especially when burning the grease out under heavy braking. A friend of mine on the Good Side of The Divide here in CO has some supadupaspecial klunker grease some character formulated. I'll tempt fate at high speeds in other manners.
 
I recently modified the Shimano coaster on this bike by removing the balls from the cages, adding extra balls as well as chamfering the edges of the shoes. Reassembled everything using some decent grease and it now spins almost as well as a freewheel.

Fewer balls, lower rolling resistance. In the old days before sealed bearings and ball cages, free balls were the rule. the pros would remove a ball or two to gain an edge with lower rolling resistance. It worked apparently.
also, if you disassemble a sealed bearing, you'll find a cage in them as well. I'll stick with cages, makes bearing installation easier.
 
I believe using top quality grease overcomes the resistance of the extra balls. The extra balls increase the load capacity of the hub especially when braking, reduce wear and the need to adjust the cones. I made the same changes to a KT coaster on another bike. The brake on that hub is strong compared to the shimano hub I modified and it spins incredibly well. I think the shoes in the Shimano may need replacing.
 
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I believe using top quality grease overcomes the resistance of the extra balls. The extra balls increase the load capacity of the hub especially when braking, reduce wear and the need to adjust the cones.
Coaster brakes are definitely their own beasts, especially when being used well beyond the use they were intended for. Maybe @rev106 can chime in or add a link to his throughts on the matter. It's well beyond the realm of roadie racerboi freewheeling hubs.
 
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Coaster brakes are definitely their own beasts, especially when being used well beyond the use they were intended for. Maybe @rev106 can chime in or add a link to his throughts on the matter. It's well beyond the realm of roadie racerboi freewheeling hubs.
I built this bike this weekend for a mate who helped me with a small job at home a while back. I modded the kt coaster by removing the bearings from the cages and adding more on the drive side. I’m interested to see if the hub holds its adjustment as he is hard on coaster brakes.
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