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@JNOACK is awesome! Can’t wait to see these on the finished bike!

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I don't have the right spacers at work. So... Plan C.


Looks like Plan C is brass, from Amazon. Will arrive tomorrow. Crossing fingers that 10mm is enough spacing. I was thinking 15mm but those aren't available. Hopefully 15mm would have been overkill.

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Spacers arrived
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After I took this pic I realized the pad’s mounting post was bottoming out and wouldn’t allow the spacer to snug down. You can see the space. So I ground it down a bit and it was snug.
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So I tried it out
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And it worked! So I set up all 4.
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Those are clamps holding the pads against the rim.

Next up is to figure out the housing routing and to se the brakes up to see if the double-pull lever works.
 
Spacers arrived
View attachment 251155

After I took this pic I realized the pad’s mounting post was bottoming out and wouldn’t allow the spacer to snug down. You can see the space. So I ground it down a bit and it was snug.
View attachment 251156

So I tried it out
View attachment 251157

And it worked! So I set up all 4.
View attachment 251158

Those are clamps holding the pads against the rim.

Next up is to figure out the housing routing and to se the brakes up to see if the double-pull lever works.
That's awesome, glad it worked. You also get a bonus in that you can use a wrench on the pad side when you tighten them!

It may not be an issue, but if you think that the spacer might loosen from the stud you could make them permanent with Loctite Red 271. I wouldn't recommend it until you know for sure that everything is dialed in though. Once you use it, there's no turning back.

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Today was rear cabling day. So I had to set up the seat and sissy. Yesterday I dropped the springs off at the powder coated for some gloss black.
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So the sissy set up today was just a mock for position.
This frame and fork has been abused over the years as you may have gathered from the work I had to put in on the fork. The entrance to the seat tube shows a good amount of abuse as well. This won’t do because the top lip is painted and shows inside the chrome clamp.
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So I put in a fair amount of work to smooth all that down. I had a NOS clamp, but the bolt was in decent shape. So after an evaporust bath I measured it, cut it (because the stock bolt sticks out WAY too far), smoothed it and polished it. That whole clamp area is going to look a ton better.
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Once the seat and sissy were in place I could set the rear shift cable path, and set up the rear brake housing path. I cut them, and crimped ferrules to them, then set up the cables.
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The housing on the handlebars is taped down because they’ll be under handlebar tape.
The rear brakes need a lot of adjustments to work properly with the single lever, but the concept has been proven so I can move forward.

I think I’m done with all the mocking up. I’m going to stop and meditate on it to make sure I’ve done everything. If I have, I’ll break it down and the pieces going to chrome shop will get boxed up and I’ll start frame and fork prep for paint.
 
Looking good!

Today was rear cabling day.

I cut them, and crimped ferrules to them, then set up the cables.

I've been doing the same thing today. I'm curious to see how you crimped the ferrules. I ended up using my cable cutters to gently crimp round and round in an attempt to simulate the factory-looking crimps.
 
Apparently, there is a tool for this task, provided you have a spare NINETY DOLLARS creating an unsightly bulge in your wallet.

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I blame the Navy for this ridiculous “attention to detail” for things that no one else would notice.
I’m breaking the bike down to get the pieces needing chrome to the player ASAP. These rocker arms for the rat-trap fork would have been fine. I was cleaning up some of the additions I made to one of them and I noticed the edges were rough. Probably because it was cast.
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So I had to take my dremel sander to them so they’d be smooth and reflect the chrome better. :rolleyes:

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THIS is why I always run out of time.
 

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