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So here's what prompted the subtile frame modification.
There is a small difference between Spaceliner and Flightliner frames that is not really noticeable at a glance but does have an effect on mounting a TRM tank. The top tubes on a Flightliner are sort of an 'S' shape where the Spaceliner is more of a 'J' which causes the tank to line up farther forward. Because of this, the top of the springer is closer to the light pods on the tank. This wouldn't be an issue if the fork is left stock, but by flipping the rockers there are no stops for the upward travel which could conceivably allow the spring plate hit the tank.

Knowing that this bike will never be stock again, I decided to adjust the top tubes to accommodate my needs. It actually doesn't look bad, but it will be hidden by the tank.

Here's the before and after comparison.

top tube reshape.jpg


(I'm sure there are 6 or more differences in the photos but the top tubes tell the story.) :bigsmile: The Hostas have really been growing!
 
You must not have any Whitetail deer eating your Hostas as they emerge. Our deer are so hungry up here that even the usual Coyote urine isn't stopping them. Oh, and the frame looks cool. :bigsmile:
 
I didn't have a tool suitable for bending the tubes so I improvised with a C-clamp and some scrap wood. As the clamp is tightened, the two wedges slide together and expand converting the closing action into a spreading action.

First I mounted an old fork up side down in the frame and then secured the fork in a vice. As I tightened the C-clamp I also pulled down on the rear of the frame and used the bend to change the angle of the head tube. It only moved the top of the head tube back 1/4" but I'll take it. Just a little will help correct the trail with the flipped rockers.

100_5049.JPG
 
That is an educated way to do it. I was thinking you might have been able to "coax" it enough with just a sledgehammer :D
 
Thanks guys.

The only problem with the makeshift spreader is that as you tighten it, the C-clamp gets out of center as the wedges move up or down on the ends. This caused the whole set-up to want to rotate as it is tightened. The solution was to not go too far at a time and then flip the wedges over so that it moves in the other direction.
 
That looks great @RustySprockets ! But the problem still remains that the contact points for the C-clamp move with the wedges. If you had a provision for at least one end (or both) to slide vertically it would resolve it.
wedge.jpg
 
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I made some drop-out extensions out of composite aluminum today. They will add 3.5 inches to the wheel base.

100_5060.jpg


These will change as I get it dialed in but I'm pretty happy with the first draft.
 
Love those dropout extensions. :41:

I've been thinking how I can add some wheelbase length to the back of my build and something like that could work, but I'd also like to lower it a bit :39: :39:

Glen.
 
Love those dropout extensions. :41:

I've been thinking how I can add some wheelbase length to the back of my build and something like that could work, but I'd also like to lower it a bit :39: :39:

Glen.
That's the main reason for making them, you can locate the axel openings wherever it suits you!
Love those dropout extensions. :41:
Eeeeeew.....those are Quoooll
Yep, those are pretty sexy, alrighty.

Thanks! I've been wanting to make some along these lines for several years now but it took until now for the right bike to come along. I've had it in my mind to make a universal fit design and offer them for sale. Maybe these will push me along.
 
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