10 Speed to Single Speed

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I was just wondering if you can convert a 10 speed threaded hub to a single speed free wheel. I have a 1980 Sanwa 10 speed that I was wanting to convert to a single speed free wheel. When I tried to research the 'how to' I got conflicting info. Thanks guys!-Swanny
 
There's a couple ways. You can buy the adaptor from Ichi, or you can swap some spacers around to move the threaded side further right for proper chainline. To do this, you may be able to use the original hardware, or you may need to obtain narrower spacers. In either case, you're going to want to keep the spacing right for the frame, but move the threaded side further right by removing spacers from the DS and adding spacers to the NDS. You want the threads to lineup so the singlespeed freewheel will line up around 42mm from center....

Pics would help for specific advice....
 
There's a couple ways. You can buy the adaptor from Ichi, or you can swap some spacers around to move the threaded side further right for proper chainline. To do this, you may be able to use the original hardware, or you may need to obtain narrower spacers. In either case, you're going to want to keep the spacing right for the frame, but move the threaded side further right by removing spacers from the DS and adding spacers to the NDS. You want the threads to lineup so the singlespeed freewheel will line up around 42mm from center....

Pics would help for specific advice....
Thanks man! Ill look into the spacers! Are you in Hawaii? I see the 808.
Ever thought about putting it in the gear that you are most comfortable with and leaving it there?
I did but I wanted the clean look of the single rear sprocket and no cables.
 
Thanks man! Ill look into the spacers! Are you in Hawaii? I see the 808.

You're quite welcome. You can probably get spacers at the local hardware.... or online. They're cheap. Having some narrow one will help you get the chainline perfect. If you're doing this on a hub that's already built into a wheel, you'll need to re-dish the wheel so the tire will be centered in the frame after you've altered the hub.

Here's the other method I'd mentioned.... http://ichibike.com/shop/item/Spacer-1in/143/Ichi_Spacer No need to re-dish with that one.

I know 808 is a Hawaii area code, but i'm in NJ. The "808" comes from the Bicycle playing card Joker, and also from the police code for "Disturbing the Peace." :crazy:

Thread a bmx freewheel on in place of the multi speed freewheel.

The only issue with that is, the freewheel will be far inboard of the crank, so the chain will be at a pretty harsh angle, leading to noise, excessive wear on the chain and sprockets, and the embarassment that goes along with bad chainline...
 
The only issue with that is, the freewheel will be far inboard of the crank, so the chain will be at a pretty harsh angle, leading to noise, excessive wear on the chain and sprockets, and the embarassment that goes along with bad chainline...

Hmm. I've done the freewheel swap a few times, and haven't had a problem yet. Maybe I've just gotten lucky with the lines so far. I'll have to keep my eye on it next time I do that.
 
Same here, never had a problem. Once I had to switch the crank axle (one square taper was longer than other), but the chain line is always good. I've done about six bikes this way.


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I have seen some Videos on Youtube that show you how to do this. Some of them just removed the gears and replace with spacers at no money out of pocket. Some insist on buying parts to do it. One guy bought a new rear wheel and replaced it. That was his solution, but he owned a bike shop.
 
I know 808 is a Hawaii area code, but i'm in NJ. The "808" comes from the Bicycle playing card Joker, and also from the police code for "Disturbing the Peace." :crazy:

:D I'd always figured it was a reference to the 808 bass drum (frequently heard rattling trunks). But that's probably just me seeing what I want to see, because I can't live without my bikes or my bass :).
 
joker_8_1024x1024.png
 
Hmm. I've done the freewheel swap a few times, and haven't had a problem yet. Maybe I've just gotten lucky with the lines so far. I'll have to keep my eye on it next time I do that.
On a stretch, the chain has a long run, so the angle isn't as dramatic, leading tlo less noise and wear. Also, it's less of a problem on 120mm hubs than 126 ones....

Same here, never had a problem. Once I had to switch the crank axle (one square taper was longer than other), but the chain line is always good. I've done about six bikes this way.

If you measure it, you'll probably be at 36mm out back... achieving that with a shorter spindle is possible, depending on the crank, but why not just shuffle some spacers? It's less work, and less expensive unless you just happen to have the correct crank/spindle combo lying around....
 

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