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More info on location:

"The Raleigh bicycle serial number location is on the side of the seat lug, front of seat lug, or at the bottom bracket. The serial convention during this period has six digits, usually followed by the letter P or T. The letter P was introduced and used until 1950, while T was used in the mid 1950s."
 
I think you have newer wheels. So the SA hub date won't reflect the year of the frame. The serial number is either on the BB or top of the seat tube facing to the rear of the bicycle. There's a lot of info on Raleigh serial numbers, but I can't verify any of them, most people use the SA hub for a date. If you find a number I'll check it out.
Thanks! I’ve been over this thing with a fine tooth comb!

i can’t find any numbers on the seat tube or lug.

The BB has what I‘m hoping is caked, hardened grease. I’m hoping if I nuke it with degreaser and carb cleaner and blast it with high pressure, it will reveal a number.
5ECF1919-CDF5-4CA3-96EC-0F1F1D1AAF27.jpeg
 
The way the cable swoops down from the seat tube to the head tube, would make a Kool tank shape……Curt
That….. is amazing input! Thank you!!!!

That head tube sure is tall creating a lot of space!!!!!

I think you’re on to something and something should be in there!!!!
 
Ahhh, the 'Mr' Bill bike! Nice to see you grab that out of the stable and give it the Jude treatment.

RaT oN~!
 
Oh man! A cottered crank bike!

If you haven’t done one of these before you’ll now have the excuse to buy or make some new tools.

The first bicycle I ever saw my dad take apart was a lady’s Raleigh style bike with cottered crank arms.
Thanks! -gonna tear into it this weekend to see what I find.

I've heard the cottered cranks are a nightmare.

truth be told, the crank, chain ring and arms are all fine and 100% functional.

If I see a lot of work or special tools needed, I will probably just leave well enough alone and work around them.
 
Thanks! -gonna tear into it this weekend to see what I find.

I've heard the cottered cranks are a nightmare.

truth be told, the crank, chain ring and arms are all fine and 100% functional.

If I see a lot of work or special tools needed, I will probably just leave well enough alone and work around them.
If there good and your using them leave them alone. I use a ball joint splitter 25 bucks on Amazon.
 
I have a few cottered cranks bikes, they still make them and use them on this side of the world. I don't use any special tools. I've had a lot of 3 speeds, Hercules, Robin Hood, Phillips over the years with cotters.
I loosen the nut slightly to give room for the pin to drop, then tap on it with a hammer, but put a block of wood between the pin and hammer to protect the threads. You can hit it pretty hard and not damage the cotter. Even rusted in pins will come out that way.
Your bike looks like it's been redone a few times so I bet the pins come right out. If there's no play in the bearings and it turns well, no noise or anything then it is best to leave it and just clean it up.
If you do take out the cotters, remember one side goes in the opposite direction of the other. I didn't know that and couldn't figure why the cranks weren't in line sometimes. I found an article that covers cotter pins pretty well:
https://www.restoration.bike/bike-repair/cottered-crank-removal/
 
I have a few cottered cranks bikes, they still make them and use them on this side of the world. I don't use any special tools. I've had a lot of 3 speeds, Hercules, Robin Hood, Phillips over the years with cotters.
I loosen the nut slightly to give room for the pin to drop, then tap on it with a hammer, but put a block of wood between the pin and hammer to protect the threads. You can hit it pretty hard and not damage the cotter. Even rusted in pins will come out that way.
Your bike looks like it's been redone a few times so I bet the pins come right out. If there's no play in the bearings and it turns well, no noise or anything then it is best to leave it and just clean it up.
If you do take out the cotters, remember one side goes in the opposite direction of the other. I didn't know that and couldn't figure why the cranks weren't in line sometimes. I found an article that covers cotter pins pretty well:
https://www.restoration.bike/bike-repair/cottered-crank-removal/
Awesome input! Thank you!
 
So, it’s Raleigh day here at the local coin operated car wash!

Just trying to blow as much dust, dirt and grease off of these things to get me to square one!!!
B3F12ECE-B25B-4861-8C2C-180973EC6486.jpeg


The proper rat rod: minor disassembly and power washed:
F9B62B02-6D48-4024-B696-F3A135AE74AF.jpeg


The green alto: donating front forks and fenders
5A4FB328-449F-4FAE-80EF-A8000E99B5F7.jpeg


The coffee step through: donating rear baskets, R-bolts, pedals and probably front wheel: piece together and flip
37ABA7E3-12A2-4DF8-AB69-0625A315148C.jpeg


The matching hers to the proper rat rod. ‘Some day’
76DD7D91-D40D-4DB3-91BD-050A3E95D35C.jpeg


Fix n flip, keep saddle for another project
63920C36-910A-4539-B18F-D218577C782E.jpeg


And…. The whole shebang:
ED22BC8D-F4AC-456E-9E39-D97894687369.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So, it’s Raleigh day here at the local coin operated car wash!

Just trying to blow as much dust, dirt and grease off of these things to get me to square one!!!View attachment 231113

The proper rat rod: minor disassembly and power washed:
View attachment 231114

The green alto: donating front forks and fenders
View attachment 231115

The coffee step through: donating rear baskets, R-bolts, pedals and probably front wheel: piece together and flip
View attachment 231116

The matching hers to the proper rat rod. ‘Some day’
View attachment 231117

Fix n flip, keep saddle for another project
View attachment 231118

And…. The whole shebang:
View attachment 231119
You can sell the the three speed coaster break for the same price as the whole bike
 

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