Are all axles created equally?

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Anyone got a lead on a 26TPI Thread Restoring File so that I can restore the threads on my axle? Unless I'm missing it in metric sizes I've found everything but 26TPI. I'm finding this under all my sissybars so I see myself doing this regularly and I'd rather fix than replace. Any other simple solutions?

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A jeweler triangle file has the proper 60° slope to accomplish the job on SAE threads. Personally. I'd seek out a 26TPI thread chaser, which is a cross between a hardened nut and a cutting die. That's the easiest way to renew those threads regularly--the files are better used in a pinch.

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A jeweler triangle file has the proper 60° slope to accomplish the job on SAE threads. Personally. I'd seek out a 26TPI thread chaser, which is a cross between a hardened nut and a cutting die. That's the easiest way to renew those threads regularly--the files are better used in a pinch.

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W O W the Park Tools option is pricey! The thread chaser looks hard to work with at that angle but it looks like the perfect solution.
 
Hardened Steel [ Gr 8 ] Nuts are reasonably priced , work well for seldom needed repair . I'm sure a rethreading die would be cheaper than an exotic alloy nut .

" Force a Correction " Good point , when doing this , be careful not to cross thread . I turn the nut slowly, feel the resistance, back out , try again . Inspect nut for damage , replace if in doubt .
 
Here's a place that can supply the proper BSCY nuts in stainless steel for less than $4.00 apiece. You will find it very difficult to obtain 26TPI fasteners at a local hardware store--that size is pretty unique to bicycles.

https://www.classicfasteners.com.au/std-hex-nut-3-8-26-tpi-bscy-stainless/
Technically, a thread chaser is nothing more than this nut, with several reliefs cut into it. A hardened nut is much less likely to cross-thread than a actual cutting die would be...plus, it's cheaper and requires no specialty handle. This would be my second choice, if a genuine chaser wasn't available.

Whatever route you choose...use plenty of lube.
 
Ok, maybe this is a peg issue? I've got 4 pegs. All fit my front axle loosely right up until they're aallll the way on. All 4 are so tight on the back (same brand/make, flip-flop) hub that they strip both axle and peg threads. But both axles use the same size nuts. Mashed threads didn't seem to be the issue. What am I missing? Is this common with pegs or are BMX axles different from flip-flops? Are thread peaks different front to back?
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...any peg knowledge? Why are they loose up front, impossibly tight on the rear?
 
I'm pretty mixed up about this one . My advice would be to remove everything Mark Front parts one color Rear parts , a different color . Now try Mix and match , easy to get confused relying on memory .
 
I'm pretty mixed up about this one . My advice would be to remove everything Mark Front parts one color Rear parts , a different color . Now try Mix and match , easy to get confused relying on memory .
Thanks for helpin. All 4 pegs have the same issue. I just tried them on 3 other sets of wheels, one nut fits all, same problem with pegs. Seems so simple It's bewildering me and I'm inches from the finish line.
 
Word. So I'm full circle back to tapping the peg hole, but at this point I just want to understand why this is happening before I wreck a peg trying.

1. Are the axles a different size, (and why)?
The peg holes aren't changing size so the axles are different, yet one average nut fits all 3 wheel sets tested, front and rear, with no play.

2. Is this a common peg issue?
I saw video of other people's pegs having the same super wobbly fit up front till they're completely pressed against the frame or nut, and I've always had trouble finding rear pegs in-shop that fit, but I just assumed they didn't stock them. Now I'm wondering if it's a modern manufacturing mixup.. but that would mean everybody is tapping them, so that can't be, right?

My problem is, if all of my axles are the same 3/8 26TPI (on paper).. how can I choose a tap size?
- Confused.
 
..Lets say a peg isn't machined well. Shouldn't it still be equally as tight or loose on both axles?
 
I highly doubt the tolerances or controls on the rod feeder for axles (low end or commercial in particular - probably class 1a to class 2) is even close to the high peak/low valley on a machined peg(class 2b or better). Probably a fair amount of variance. You might see .001 on a tight machine variance but a larger threading machine for rod may have .010 of runout which will drastically diminish the end result. Also heat treat can't be excluded as a variable
 
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