I was wondering where to post this, or even if to post it, but since there is a new section....
(glad you created this section RR)
I finally got to start on the Blue WalGoose today. Not finished,but here's what I found on my bike so far.
Front wheel. The bearings felt tight and rough. My surprise was that there was plenty of grease.
I went ahead and cleaned them, re-greased and adjusted. Smooth as silk now.
The bearings are loose as previously reported, so be prepared to catch them.
Head set. felt tight.
Bearings in a cage, with a VERY THIN coat of grease. Greased them up and adjusted.
Feels fine now.
Bottom Bracket.
When I removed the rear wheel, I found that the cranks could hardly be turned by hand.
Removed the cranks. Use the Park CCP-22 tool to remove them from the square taper shaft.
You can Google it to see what it looks like and how to use it. it's not expensive.
Remove the lock ring and Bearing Cup from the non-drive side. You don't need to remove the drive side bearing cup.
This side is threaded "normal" lefty loosey-righty tighty.
A tap from a hammer on a flat blade screw driver gets the lock ring going.
A cresent adjustable wrench will fit the flats on the bearing cup.
The bearings are in cages, and they have a VERY THIN coat of grease.
Grease them up as well as the shaft and re-install and adjust, and the BB is smooth as silk.
One of my bearings had a ball bearing missing.
Since I save everything, I was able to find a BB in my junk and pressed it into the cage and saved it.
Coaster Brake.
I was going to check out the grease situation in the CB, but the nuts are so tight I could not break them loose.
I suppose I'll just let the CB ride for now and hope that it runs freely.
Not inclined to break anything getting it apart.
Spokes.
I thought that the spoke tension was not too consistant.
The wheels will not fit in my truing stand, so I just gave most of them about an 1/8 turn tightening by feel.
I'm taking RR's advice, and have ordered a 20T rear cog, so I'm not going to put everything back together until it gets here next week.
Hope this helps!
(glad you created this section RR)
I finally got to start on the Blue WalGoose today. Not finished,but here's what I found on my bike so far.
Front wheel. The bearings felt tight and rough. My surprise was that there was plenty of grease.
I went ahead and cleaned them, re-greased and adjusted. Smooth as silk now.
The bearings are loose as previously reported, so be prepared to catch them.
Head set. felt tight.
Bearings in a cage, with a VERY THIN coat of grease. Greased them up and adjusted.
Feels fine now.
Bottom Bracket.
When I removed the rear wheel, I found that the cranks could hardly be turned by hand.
Removed the cranks. Use the Park CCP-22 tool to remove them from the square taper shaft.
You can Google it to see what it looks like and how to use it. it's not expensive.
Remove the lock ring and Bearing Cup from the non-drive side. You don't need to remove the drive side bearing cup.
This side is threaded "normal" lefty loosey-righty tighty.
A tap from a hammer on a flat blade screw driver gets the lock ring going.
A cresent adjustable wrench will fit the flats on the bearing cup.
The bearings are in cages, and they have a VERY THIN coat of grease.
Grease them up as well as the shaft and re-install and adjust, and the BB is smooth as silk.
One of my bearings had a ball bearing missing.
Since I save everything, I was able to find a BB in my junk and pressed it into the cage and saved it.
Coaster Brake.
I was going to check out the grease situation in the CB, but the nuts are so tight I could not break them loose.
I suppose I'll just let the CB ride for now and hope that it runs freely.
Not inclined to break anything getting it apart.
Spokes.
I thought that the spoke tension was not too consistant.
The wheels will not fit in my truing stand, so I just gave most of them about an 1/8 turn tightening by feel.
I'm taking RR's advice, and have ordered a 20T rear cog, so I'm not going to put everything back together until it gets here next week.
Hope this helps!