New Departure hub tear down...NOT so scary

[Fe2O3]

After reading every thread I could find here on hubs I decided to tear mine down to clean out 50+ years of neglect. I found a mtn bike on trash day that will be donating spokes to my wheel build.

I was carefully disassembling the hub, laying out the parts in oder. Then cleaning them one at a time and returning them to reassemble order. Of course I knock the towel of parts on the ground.

Fortunately, I thought ahead and took a few pics along the way. :wink:

The only part I was concerned about was the "stack":

There were 12 of (washer?) #1 and 11 of the #2 (clutch?). So I figured the sequence would start & end with the #1 pcs? Please advise if I'm incorrect.

I do have two questions:

What/were do I look for signs of wear?

When I reassemble do I greese the bearings and add motor oil to the hub cavity? I believe I read that is why there is a "port" on the hub case?

Thanks for the help
Frank

 

[Ratfink1962]

When I re-assemble.... I usually drop all the brake discs in a small container of 30wt, then pluck them out one at a time to build the stack. I use regular grease on the bearings, 30wt on the discs and a few drops in the oiler after its all put back together.

 

[KJV]

20 wt is what was used originaly.

 

[c.p.odom]

Look for scoring on the faces of the brake disc, especially the bronze ones, also look to see if they have been burned or glazed. If it is the former toss them, if it is the latter some fine sandpaper on a flat surface can fix them up. It is really little different from inspecting your cars brake rotors. Check the driver engagement threads for chips, check the clutch cone for wear, and check the tab on the transfer spring.

 

[Fe2O3]

When I re-assemble.... I usually drop all the brake discs in a small container of 30wt, then pluck them out one at a time to build the stack. I use regular grease on the bearings, 30wt on the discs and a few drops in the oiler after its all put back together.

I'm not that comfortable with the process yet to just dump parts into a cleaner pail :lol: I'm sure a few builds down the road I'll be good with it all

faces of the brake disc......also looked to see if they have been burned or glazed.....if it is the latter some fine sandpaper on a flat surface can fix them up.

I did see a little of that and polished them a bit with 220.

 

[Fe2O3]

20 wt is what was used originaly.

That does make sence historically, as I believe that was the common auto motor oil wt?

So how much should I put into that oiler hole? I would think a light wt. oil would just leak out past the bearings?

 

[deorman]

It adheres to the plates, but eventually, it will migrate outward, thus the need for the port. :|