I ended up stapling the cloth/paper in a loop to catch one of the fingers.
Within 1 - 2 Hundreths. They should press in after paint now.
Within 1 - 2 Hundreths. They should press in after paint now.
Off-Roadster (ORBO)
- Thread starter metalchewy
- Start date
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It works! This kind of stuff is what I enjoy a lot.
Sanded chips and the shine off much of the paint.
Have a plan to get the old buggered up tensioner bolts out. Woth them broken off on the wheel side,, I Will have to dremel smooth so that I can run them out on the frame side
I have replacements tensioners around somewhere in a nut/bolt bag
I seem to recall they are #7-24 threads. Size is Uncommon at the hardware stores. One store in town carries.slotted brass machine screws the right size.
I picked up a tap a few years ago for my old rollfast frame. The CWC frames used the same in the late 30s so I am expecting it to fit right.
Have a plan to get the old buggered up tensioner bolts out. Woth them broken off on the wheel side,, I Will have to dremel smooth so that I can run them out on the frame side
I have replacements tensioners around somewhere in a nut/bolt bag
I seem to recall they are #7-24 threads. Size is Uncommon at the hardware stores. One store in town carries.slotted brass machine screws the right size.
I picked up a tap a few years ago for my old rollfast frame. The CWC frames used the same in the late 30s so I am expecting it to fit right.
I was way off on the size. #14-20 on this frame and #14-24 is the size I bought for the rollfast.
Can't find my tensioner bolts. More searching is needed.
As for the job. Still impressed with these diamond cut-off wheels I got from ACE hardware 4 or 5 years ago. Still work great. Excellent for cutting.
Used up 3 cups and two flats out of these to clear rust and paint from the threads so they could be backed out.
Used the 14NC20 tap to chase the threads.
More sanding later today to be ready to paint, also maybe later depending on wind.
Can't find my tensioner bolts. More searching is needed.
As for the job. Still impressed with these diamond cut-off wheels I got from ACE hardware 4 or 5 years ago. Still work great. Excellent for cutting.
Used up 3 cups and two flats out of these to clear rust and paint from the threads so they could be backed out.
Used the 14NC20 tap to chase the threads.
More sanding later today to be ready to paint, also maybe later depending on wind.
Attachments
Paint On... lawn knats and I are having a battle..
Black Chrome, with a few layers of 1K clere extreme gloss.
Black Chrome, with a few layers of 1K clere extreme gloss.
Used these to paint. Started putting on clear about 20 minutes after the last coat of chrome.
Thw frame fill hang out on the edge of the back porch for a few days to harden and cure in the sun. Will chip easily right now.
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Painted some details today
Fork, some flat black to cover the Boss delete mod.
Canti-Horseshoe, ran out of flat black. Had very little, so I painted it frame color.
Now, the seat post clamp gave issues.
The chrome base was dry to the touch, and the clear blue overcoat melted it. Then second blue coat melted it again. 3rd a little. 4th covered without it visibly melting. So ended up with a unique color.
I've had these metalcast cleared release undercoat on a number of paints. Only engine paint or ceramic wheel paint is excluded. Once set, it's set.
Fork, some flat black to cover the Boss delete mod.
Canti-Horseshoe, ran out of flat black. Had very little, so I painted it frame color.
Now, the seat post clamp gave issues.
The chrome base was dry to the touch, and the clear blue overcoat melted it. Then second blue coat melted it again. 3rd a little. 4th covered without it visibly melting. So ended up with a unique color.
I've had these metalcast cleared release undercoat on a number of paints. Only engine paint or ceramic wheel paint is excluded. Once set, it's set.
Been working on the details. A whole Lotta things going on, so 5 minutes here, or 10 there.
Used some rope to pull apart the seatpost clamp and put it on without scratching.
Ground the backs of the bottom bracket bearings to fit with the dremel. Needed clearance for the welds on both sides, plus beveled the edge.
Sanded and painted cups with the clear blue.
Used a rubber mallet to whack them in with a couple good square hits.
I wonder how durable that 1K clear really is. Was planning to have paint chipped and scratched by the time the finish rolls around. I plan to put a bunch of miles on it this winter. The wash and showgirl usually toss rocks.
Used some rope to pull apart the seatpost clamp and put it on without scratching.
Ground the backs of the bottom bracket bearings to fit with the dremel. Needed clearance for the welds on both sides, plus beveled the edge.
Sanded and painted cups with the clear blue.
Used a rubber mallet to whack them in with a couple good square hits.
I wonder how durable that 1K clear really is. Was planning to have paint chipped and scratched by the time the finish rolls around. I plan to put a bunch of miles on it this winter. The wash and showgirl usually toss rocks.
Speaking of tossing rocks. I had some Rock Hawks on a build and any time we picked up speed, that bike would start throwing rocks from 1/2 to 3/4" forward on the trail in front of me.
My friend that was riding with me at the time, kept getting pelted in the back and head. After a trrip or two he always rode behind me...
My friend that was riding with me at the time, kept getting pelted in the back and head. After a trrip or two he always rode behind me...
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
@MattiThundrrr that is so funny. I might have wanted to test my goggles like that in the 70s as well. Hehe
Today I spent a little time and threaded and grooved the fork.
Then a couple minutes with the dremel to cut out the star nut.
Also cut the ends off those 1 to 1-1/8 spacers for the neck.
Quill is odd. 90 degrees of center line, instead of with it. Haven't seen this on other necks. A first for me.
Threaded on the top of the headset. Found a spacer rather than trimming the top of the fork.
Funny thing.
The top crown of that NOS headset is threaded crooked. Took a closer look.
Found two threads next starting too close together and confirmed. Bad part.
Found one on a junk frame in the yard that will work.
Painted the top race and will put it together in the morning.
Then a couple minutes with the dremel to cut out the star nut.
Also cut the ends off those 1 to 1-1/8 spacers for the neck.
Quill is odd. 90 degrees of center line, instead of with it. Haven't seen this on other necks. A first for me.
Threaded on the top of the headset. Found a spacer rather than trimming the top of the fork.
Funny thing.
The top crown of that NOS headset is threaded crooked. Took a closer look.
Found two threads next starting too close together and confirmed. Bad part.
Found one on a junk frame in the yard that will work.
Painted the top race and will put it together in the morning.
Assembled now.
Top race, after painted was a snug fit on the threads. Had to tape up the big crescent and wrench it in. It won't loosten on its own, which will be new for me on and off road bike.
Will be cutting the chain in today.
Been wondering what brand this bike was. My spare 30s western flyer badge won't fit, pins too wide. Was hoping the earlu 30s Hawthorne trailblazer badge would fit. A little wide on the pins. A hole under the middle H and it would fit. 2.20" on the frame. Ah well, have a while to figure it out.
Thinking I will steal some tensioners off another frame and take it for a spin this afternoon if all goes well.
Top race, after painted was a snug fit on the threads. Had to tape up the big crescent and wrench it in. It won't loosten on its own, which will be new for me on and off road bike.
Will be cutting the chain in today.
Been wondering what brand this bike was. My spare 30s western flyer badge won't fit, pins too wide. Was hoping the earlu 30s Hawthorne trailblazer badge would fit. A little wide on the pins. A hole under the middle H and it would fit. 2.20" on the frame. Ah well, have a while to figure it out.
Thinking I will steal some tensioners off another frame and take it for a spin this afternoon if all goes well.
MattiThundrrr
Rattus All Terrainus
Man, that looks soooo good!
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Looking sharp!
Thanks Matti
Thank You Palepainter
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Cut a handlebar for a bent seat tube. It actually is perfect length about where it is for a lot of riding. Was thinking a straight post earlier. Might need to find a 7/8 long bent post for uphill riding
Brakes screech like a goose. Will open the KT2 hub up tomorrow and make sure it is properly lubed.
Looking sharp!
Wow! I was 'off site' for about 10 days and this build exploded! As always, MC, you are dialing it in when it comes to ORBO builds. Diggin' every little custom touch and detail of this build.
Off RaT build oN ~!
Off RaT build oN ~!
Thank you Bike Frim the Dead, I appreciate it.
Thank You OJ. As you are well aware, all the fun work is in the details. This build has a few additional details left, but it is close.
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This pic has most of the details left.
Need hardware for the tank. I put it on another build. Will need to go to a True Value or McFaddendale's for it. I also need to make some more straps for it.
I forgot to put the Bell on when I put the grips on. Some of the two way trails you need a bell to warn people you are coming up the trail.
Some, including me from time to time will take 2 vehicles, park at the top and bottom and just shuttle the gravity run.
Uphill on every trail, always has the right away. I've been run off the trail by selfish people who don't know or care about this rule. The bell helps. Hear them coming and start pinging.
Still trying to figure out a headbadge, and looking thru parts for the proper tensioner screws. These prewar coaster bikes need them to keep the wheel straight under hard braking.
For this morning, I think I will ride the bike up past car club and visit with some friends.
About half way through the ride, the goose call quit. I figured the brakes may need to wear in and smooth out the little machining grooves. With that, the new hub & brakes are wore in.
They are a bit touchy. Will give them some proper braking the first time on the hill and make them work hard.
Went about 5 miles, up, across and back down, around 10 big vegas blocks. Got to car club a little late. People were rolling out. Reminds me,, I Need to fix the clutch fork in the dart.
Took a couple pics by Los Prados golf commu ity on the way ba k down the hill when I stopped for some water.
Never bought this brand of chain before.. This YBN Freestyle half link is flat along the outer radius.
Packaging says it is for riding a rail with the chain. My KMC half links don't have a straight line on either side.
Not planning to ride the bowls at the park with it but good to know it won't go thud-thud-thud if I wanted to ride the rail.
Will be scrubbing the grease of the tank at some point today and might get it painted.
They are a bit touchy. Will give them some proper braking the first time on the hill and make them work hard.
Went about 5 miles, up, across and back down, around 10 big vegas blocks. Got to car club a little late. People were rolling out. Reminds me,, I Need to fix the clutch fork in the dart.
Took a couple pics by Los Prados golf commu ity on the way ba k down the hill when I stopped for some water.
Never bought this brand of chain before.. This YBN Freestyle half link is flat along the outer radius.
Packaging says it is for riding a rail with the chain. My KMC half links don't have a straight line on either side.
Not planning to ride the bowls at the park with it but good to know it won't go thud-thud-thud if I wanted to ride the rail.
Will be scrubbing the grease of the tank at some point today and might get it painted.
