UNLIMITED Ratneck Rampage

[kingfish254]

Love the CAD work.
I wonder if some sort of unistrut could be used to have a similar vibe? Not sure of the strength though.

 

[Ulu]

Unistrut is sort of heavy for bikes. Worked great to mod my boat trailer though.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

It is silly, in a very good way. It's a great idea. And if it's a good excuse to pick up a laser cutter, you really can't go wrong.

Thanks! Appreciate that.

As you will enjoy hours of cleaning the mud out of all that tiny openwork with a little brush, I feel you will increasingly appreciate the invention of tubing.

Its extra powerful when you discover that for your self.
The bicycle Manufacturer Azor makes very high quality bikes and their frames have a zinc coating underneath the powdercoat. I believe people can use a pressurized cleaner

Love the CAD work.
I wonder if some sort of unistrut could be used to have a similar vibe? Not sure of the strength though.

View attachment 264231

Thanks Kingfish, I immediately searched for these and found some. They are 'open' for consideration.

Unistrut is sort of heavy for bikes. Worked great to mod my boat trailer though.

You could be right Ulu.

For reference: The original bicycles tubing that I cut off is 1,5 millimeters thick.

Although I do not mind a little bit more weight, there are limits.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I did not find any nice tubing at the local dumpsters unfortunately.

I did came home with a 26inch wheelset. Someone threw a complete bicycle away, it was ugly, but in very good technical condition.

Not rusted, spoke tension is good. No wobbles...

This afternoon I will look in another dumpster for a sweet tube! Love it.

 

[Wildcat]

Schwalbe tires?

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Schwalbe tires?

Yessir!

I found two profiles! Can take them for free.

Steel:
700mm long.
51mm × 25,4mm and 2mm wall thickness.

And this one, also steel. Its open on the other end, so a little boxing in for stiffness might be required.
700mm long.
46mm x 35mm and 2.5mm wall thickness.

Both are heavy, but then I have an excuse for speedholes.

I'll visualize more tubing in my shed the next few days.

I also cleaned the headtube for welding and made a bush for that new seattube connection after the 'top chop'.

Bearing cups are out.

Bush is in!

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I did a thing.

I probably use one of these for the lower part of the downtube. Pretty cool that @kingfish254 Mentioned the Unistrut and this came out of the trash!

Reminds me of an axe.

Not notched/filed yet, but you get the idea. I kinda like it!
IF I use this idea, I gotta think about connecting the top part, without it looking too busy and junky.

A better view.


And all parts are junk and reused, that is pretty cool.

 

[Ulu]

Thanks! Appreciate that.


Its extra powerful when you discover that for your self.
The bicycle Manufacturer Azor makes very high quality bikes and their frames have a zinc coating underneath the powdercoat. I believe people can use a pressurized cleaner

Thanks Kingfish, I immediately searched for these and found some. They are 'open' for consideration.


You could be right Ulu.

For reference: The original bicycles tubing that I cut off is 1,5 millimeters thick.

Although I do not mind a little bit more weight, there are limits.

The unistrut steel is 12ga (0.105”) thick (!) and only 33ksi. Softer than ordinary structural beams, It’s designed from soft metals so the special toothed nuts bite into the strut.

Compare that to my Mongoose based bike, which is much thinner 16ga (0.06”) & much stronger 50ksi steel tube, and yet nowadays is considered pretty heavy.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

The unistrut steel is 12ga (0.105”) thick (!) and only 33ksi. Softer than ordinary structural beams, It’s designed from soft metals so the special toothed nuts bite into the strut.

Compare that to my Mongoose based bike, which is much thinner 16ga (0.06”) & much stronger 50ksi steel tube, and yet nowadays is considered pretty heavy.

Thanks Ulu, I never knew that. Sounds logical now that you explain it. Learning everyday!



Sketching some ideas regarding beam placement.

Picture above: This way of placing the beam is much stronger in regards to the rider weight. Since the round tube is larger in diameter than the square beam, I can cut 25,4mm off the tube and let it 'slide around' the square beam.

Picture above: This way of placing the beam is not stronger, but it looks pretty cool. If I use this method, I have got to make sure that the tube goes through the first wall of the square beam.


The connection regarding the bottom bracket is important too!

I am feeling my way to get a great looking bike, that does not necessarily have the best engineering choices, but is 100% strong and safe enough.
I will let this sink in and come up with some neat ideas soon.



[EDIT]

This does look good from above.

This is a bit stronger though. Looks good too!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

You should have much less flex with the last orientation. Cool concepts.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

 

[MattiThundrrr]

One more

 

[BartRidesEternal]

One more View attachment 264658

Awesome!

Found more options. I like options.


1:

2:

Or this one:


3:

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Alright, I layed all parts on my cardboard plan and chose to go for number 3 from my previous post.

Now I have to choose again (I think I already made my choice, but I'll show you the possibilities:


1:

I kinda like this one. The (black) top tube will have a slightly larger diameter, fitting with the left part.


2:

Imagine the (black) top tube with a curve or bend. Not sold on this.


3:

Straight tube. I like this one the best at the moment. I also have a way to connect the curved seat stays better to the seat + top tube. But I am still thinking about number 1.

I'll have a challenge with alignment since my JIG is waiting for parts.

 

[Captain Awesome]

Alright, I layed all parts on my cardboard plan and chose to go for number 3 from my previous post.

Now I have to choose again (I think I already made my choice, but I'll show you the possibilities:


1:
View attachment 264679
I kinda like this one. The (black) top tube will have a slightly larger diameter, fitting with the left part.


2:
View attachment 264680
Imagine the (black) top tube with a curve or bend. Not sold on this.


3:
View attachment 264681
Straight tube. I like this one the best at the moment. I also have a way to connect the curved seat stays better to the seat + top tube. But I am still thinking about number 1.

I'll have a challenge with alignment since my JIG is waiting for parts.

1 is the most appealing to my eye

 

[SkyknightJohn]

1 is the most appealing to my eye

+1.
flows better, IMO.

 

[Glen]

I used box section for the bottom rail on my BO8 build, Rattled. I peaked the front and rear of the rail to a point which you can see in this in progress shot…

Yours would look good done that way too I reckon.

Glen.

 

[kingfish254]

Cool that some unistrut and solid strut material found you.
I agree with the others that option 1 flows better.

 

[Pondo]

View attachment 264558


I did a thing.

View attachment 264559
View attachment 264560
I probably use one of these for the lower part of the downtube. Pretty cool that @kingfish254 Mentioned the Unistrut and this came out of the trash!

View attachment 264561
View attachment 264562
View attachment 264563
Reminds me of an axe.

View attachment 264564
View attachment 264565
Not notched/filed yet, but you get the idea. I kinda like it!
IF I use this idea, I gotta think about connecting the top part, without it looking too busy and junky.

View attachment 264566
A better view.


And all parts are junk and reused, that is pretty cool.

Alright, I layed all parts on my cardboard plan and chose to go for number 3 from my previous post.

Now I have to choose again (I think I already made my choice, but I'll show you the possibilities:


1:
View attachment 264679
I kinda like this one. The (black) top tube will have a slightly larger diameter, fitting with the left part.


2:
View attachment 264680
Imagine the (black) top tube with a curve or bend. Not sold on this.


3:
View attachment 264681
Straight tube. I like this one the best at the moment. I also have a way to connect the curved seat stays better to the seat + top tube. But I am still thinking about number 1.

I'll have a challenge with alignment since my JIG is waiting for parts.

That dumpster diving GIF is classic!

I also like option 1 aesthetically.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

I used box section for the bottom rail on my BO8 build, Rattled. I peaked the front and rear of the rail to a point which you can see in this in progress shot…

View attachment 264692

Yours would look good done that way too I reckon.

Glen.

I remember your build, it was before my time, but I loved this bike and saved it on my phone as inspiration
Thank you, I love that lower square profile! Mine will be a little bit different.

+1.
flows better, IMO.

1 is the most appealing to my eye

Cool that some unistrut and solid strut material found you.
I agree with the others that option 1 flows better.

That dumpster diving GIF is classic!

I also like option 1 aesthetically.

Thank you guys, you managed to convince me to go in that direction, although I did not need that much convincing


I cut, notched, and filed a few tubes. The coming week the first welding session.
I will get creative with alignment.

I also repacked the 24" wheels hubs! Like new on the inside.

I will paint the rims later, when the frame is done and I'll decide on a colour pallet.

Glasses anyone?

Notes for alignment. Spacers.

Nasty!




Before cleaning:

After cleaning:

Done!

I'll keep the rear hub a bit crusty, like that so far. Turns like a dream.

Yesterday's heavens day ride with friends, partially through Germany, where we saw this beautiful car: