ok so i picked up a schwinn tiger tonight, my first ever customization project. i can't call it a restoration project as i am not intending to use all the original parts or replace the ones needed with original (sorry). i took the bulk of it apart so far. i tried to find out the year on oldroads but wasn't so sure if i was looking at the right serial listings. i only found a general listing for schwinn bikes. and it seemed mine was a 1948? but i don't think so at all. the number is E418026. lemme know if anyone can check and has better luck. now i just gotta strip it, repaint it the color i want, and clean the chrome parts i am keeping. what are the best ways to go about this process/processes? i wanna buy new bars that come up a little higher, and some fatter tires with the whitewalls. do they make them for schwinns? wheres the best place to look for schwinn stuff that works on a tiger? i don't claim to have ever taken apart a hub before, and i'm not sure i wanna risk doing so on something so old. should i take it to a bike shop to do? i'm sure it needs to be cleaned. same with the guts of the crank. where do i find all the little pieces and bearings i made need to replace for both, are they a standard size. i want this baby to purr along. can i get a crank with freewheel and add handbrakes? can i mount them on the fender mounts if i leave off the fenders? what new and cool pieces and parts would fit this old girl? i know i'm bombarding you guys with questions. but i'm a rookie, sorry. PLEASE HELP!. you guys are the masters afterall. THANKS! R.
SCHAAAAWINNNNNERRRRRRR
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CCR
Mouth-Breather
may 1964 tiger
to clean up the chrome, spray it with wd40 and rub it with some #000 steel wool from wal-mart, home depot, or a hardware store (the steel wool bag will say #000 or extra fine on it). just make sure your not rubbing the chrome without the wd40 on it. it will scratch and dull the chrome if you dont use wd40.
after its cleaned, wax the chrome to protect it from rusting again.
the wheels on it need a special tire if they are original schwinn wheels, they should be 26 x 1 3/4 tires, the wheels will have a stamp that says schwinn tubular s-7 on it. you need to find tires that fit an s-7 wheel. if you are changing wheels, any tire should fit.
try ebay or google " memory lane clasics " (they have whitewalls there) for s-7 tires.
if you want fatter tires youll need to replace the wheels too. (unless the wheels are stamped "schwinn tubular s-2" for some reason, then any 26 x 2.125 would fit)
as far as stripping paint, some sand, some use a drill and a wire wheel, some use paint stripper. if the paint is nice and there arent a ton of rusty spots, you dont have to sand the paint all the way off and it would be bestto sand by hand.
sorry ... the bike is a coaster brake (pedal backwards to stop) bike. that bikes frame is not set-up to mount caliper brakes on it, you could add a front brake if you changed the fork though.
as far as the rear hub service, its not too hard to do but its messy and you have to adjust the cones just right or it causes problems. its not too hard but if your swapping wheels to fit fatter tires, it will have a new hub with it.
to clean up the chrome, spray it with wd40 and rub it with some #000 steel wool from wal-mart, home depot, or a hardware store (the steel wool bag will say #000 or extra fine on it). just make sure your not rubbing the chrome without the wd40 on it. it will scratch and dull the chrome if you dont use wd40.
after its cleaned, wax the chrome to protect it from rusting again.
the wheels on it need a special tire if they are original schwinn wheels, they should be 26 x 1 3/4 tires, the wheels will have a stamp that says schwinn tubular s-7 on it. you need to find tires that fit an s-7 wheel. if you are changing wheels, any tire should fit.
try ebay or google " memory lane clasics " (they have whitewalls there) for s-7 tires.
if you want fatter tires youll need to replace the wheels too. (unless the wheels are stamped "schwinn tubular s-2" for some reason, then any 26 x 2.125 would fit)
as far as stripping paint, some sand, some use a drill and a wire wheel, some use paint stripper. if the paint is nice and there arent a ton of rusty spots, you dont have to sand the paint all the way off and it would be bestto sand by hand.
sorry ... the bike is a coaster brake (pedal backwards to stop) bike. that bikes frame is not set-up to mount caliper brakes on it, you could add a front brake if you changed the fork though.
as far as the rear hub service, its not too hard to do but its messy and you have to adjust the cones just right or it causes problems. its not too hard but if your swapping wheels to fit fatter tires, it will have a new hub with it.
Thanks a million ccr, and all you guys helping me on here!!! And thanks a million more ahead of time. Don't know of any vintage bike clubs in Syracuse ny for me to go to for help. You on here are all a newnur like me has got, and the internet. But its hard when you're looking at a lot of it for the first time. Iveyeah had bikes and futzed with them in my younger days. But nothing vintage and to this extreme. Thanks for understanding.
the rims are the schwinn tubulars. They both say it on them. The rear says s7 on it but I can't find it on the front. But both tire sizes are the size you said. So I can get wall wall tires for the rims, but boyhung fatter or a little more ballooned without buying new rims right? And how big can I get them before rubbing becomes an issue?
I was thinking about paint stripping the whole thing. Never done it before. Surprise. Lol. But it sounds the quickest and easiest. Sounds it anyway? Do I need to bother cleaning it really first? Do I try and get any rust or corrosion off beforehand or after?
The hubs and crank I'm still quite nervous about. They are still on the frame, and they spin, but I'm air not as smooth as they can. This is something that's a complete question mark to me as I have no idea what they should look or function like once inside. They could be shot or on there way out for all I know, as iv never seen the inside of either when new to compare. Much less inside hubs and cranks from 1964. The outsides seem alright, but the innerworkings I have no idea. heck if I know what a healthy bearing looks like from one that needs replacing. Or even what to expect inside the rear hub. I'm tempted to just find new rims and start fresh, but I'm not trying to cop out
How did you get the bikes year? The one site I found seemed to say it was from Sept of 1952. Thanks for checking. Is that a positive?
Again, sorry for rambling, this is all so new and I just want to get it right and give my future new ride the attention it deserves. Keep ANY info coming. And thanks again for all your time, advice and patience!! Ill try to make you guys proud.
R.
the rims are the schwinn tubulars. They both say it on them. The rear says s7 on it but I can't find it on the front. But both tire sizes are the size you said. So I can get wall wall tires for the rims, but boyhung fatter or a little more ballooned without buying new rims right? And how big can I get them before rubbing becomes an issue?
I was thinking about paint stripping the whole thing. Never done it before. Surprise. Lol. But it sounds the quickest and easiest. Sounds it anyway? Do I need to bother cleaning it really first? Do I try and get any rust or corrosion off beforehand or after?
The hubs and crank I'm still quite nervous about. They are still on the frame, and they spin, but I'm air not as smooth as they can. This is something that's a complete question mark to me as I have no idea what they should look or function like once inside. They could be shot or on there way out for all I know, as iv never seen the inside of either when new to compare. Much less inside hubs and cranks from 1964. The outsides seem alright, but the innerworkings I have no idea. heck if I know what a healthy bearing looks like from one that needs replacing. Or even what to expect inside the rear hub. I'm tempted to just find new rims and start fresh, but I'm not trying to cop out
How did you get the bikes year? The one site I found seemed to say it was from Sept of 1952. Thanks for checking. Is that a positive?
Again, sorry for rambling, this is all so new and I just want to get it right and give my future new ride the attention it deserves. Keep ANY info coming. And thanks again for all your time, advice and patience!! Ill try to make you guys proud.
R.
I will try to answer a few of the questions.
If you decide on new wheels/rims, a middleweight frame can take a 26x 2.125" tire easily. They have a harder time fitting a 24x 3" tire though.
Clean your frame off before you paint. You may need to lightly sand over the rust to smooth it out. Some members here have been successful in laying down some pinstripes on old and sometime rusty metal(Clothespin and Yeshoney).
Start with the cranks first. Xdorox(Gerry) has a great blog w/ pics that describes this. More than likely the bearing will just need all the gunk cleaned off. Rust can be removed by brushing the bearings with a brass brush or some steel wool.
http://bikeoverhaul.blogspot.com/2006/0 ... frame.html
or Park tool http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=150
As for the coaster brake hub. In the How to Section here, there is a diagrams for most hubs. The coaster brake has a few moving parts and is not as scary as it looks. Here are a couple of links for a coaster hub overhaul.
http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles ... erhaul.htm
use parktool second as they often use special tools and odd ways.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=104
Stick around awhile. Next thing you know, you will be lacing up hubs to new rims. :mrgreen:
If you decide on new wheels/rims, a middleweight frame can take a 26x 2.125" tire easily. They have a harder time fitting a 24x 3" tire though.
Clean your frame off before you paint. You may need to lightly sand over the rust to smooth it out. Some members here have been successful in laying down some pinstripes on old and sometime rusty metal(Clothespin and Yeshoney).
Start with the cranks first. Xdorox(Gerry) has a great blog w/ pics that describes this. More than likely the bearing will just need all the gunk cleaned off. Rust can be removed by brushing the bearings with a brass brush or some steel wool.
http://bikeoverhaul.blogspot.com/2006/0 ... frame.html
or Park tool http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=150
As for the coaster brake hub. In the How to Section here, there is a diagrams for most hubs. The coaster brake has a few moving parts and is not as scary as it looks. Here are a couple of links for a coaster hub overhaul.
http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles ... erhaul.htm
use parktool second as they often use special tools and odd ways.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=104
Stick around awhile. Next thing you know, you will be lacing up hubs to new rims. :mrgreen:
CCR
Mouth-Breather
RXXL said:
for one identifier, it has the built in kickstand instead of a bolt on
schwinn started doing that in 1962 and after
the serial decodes as
E= may 4 = 1964 the rest doesnt really matter too much
im positive
heres the ad page for it
http://www.geocities.com/sldbconsumer17 ... cpg14b.jpg
CCR
Mouth-Breather
B607 said:
now that i think of it, your probably right about the kickstand, i think im just recalling the straightbar frames that didnt have the welded on kickstand (and i kind of stick to the 60s schwinns only, dont know much about earlier ones :| )
but im positive the serial # is a 64 still, this bike has chrome fenders, 50s tigers or earlier 60s models would of had painted fenders and a different shaped guard.
also if you get the crank out or pull the handle bar stem it will be date stamped.
cool, so a 64 it is then. thanks.
i was asking if i need bother to clean or sand the bike before i strip it of the paint? will the stripper take all of it off anyway/ except for the rust, which i sand off after?
what grit paper do i use to sand the rust and or just to smooth things out after?
what's best to clean the frame with and of the inside of the crank (bearings and casings etc)?
i haven't even touched the rear hub yet, but it looks strange. if looking down on it there are deep grooves in it, manufactured grooves, that run the inner cicum. of the hub. it's like the casing or shell is gone?? if i was to make a feeble stick drawing of it from a top view it would look something like this --}-I-I-I-{-- with the three lines in the center representing the the grooves i see. what's the deal here?
i was asking if i need bother to clean or sand the bike before i strip it of the paint? will the stripper take all of it off anyway/ except for the rust, which i sand off after?
what grit paper do i use to sand the rust and or just to smooth things out after?
what's best to clean the frame with and of the inside of the crank (bearings and casings etc)?
i haven't even touched the rear hub yet, but it looks strange. if looking down on it there are deep grooves in it, manufactured grooves, that run the inner cicum. of the hub. it's like the casing or shell is gone?? if i was to make a feeble stick drawing of it from a top view it would look something like this --}-I-I-I-{-- with the three lines in the center representing the the grooves i see. what's the deal here?
CCR
Mouth-Breather
Sounds like you have a 2 speed rear hub it has a low gear for climbing hills. it shifts by backpedaling just enough that you dont actually hit the brakes, then pedal forward and your in another gear, nice thing to have if it works. the brake arm should say "automatic" on it.
just clean the crank housing as best as you can, after the bearing cups are out there shouldnt be much grease to remove, just dont smear the grease inside around to the exterior of the frame and remove as much as you can with a paper towel or rag.
if your using paint stripper, i would strip it first (if your worried about the decals, clean them with windex, it will take them off), after the paint striper has done its thing i would sand it with medium grit sandpaper (i use 200 - 600) in the nooks and crannies and give the whole frame a once over, then use a grease and wax remover before primer/paint.
it has a low gear for climbing hills. it shifts by backpedaling just enough that you dont actually hit the brakes, then pedal forward and your in another gear, nice thing to have if it works. the brake arm should say "automatic" on it.just clean the crank housing as best as you can, after the bearing cups are out there shouldnt be much grease to remove, just dont smear the grease inside around to the exterior of the frame and remove as much as you can with a paper towel or rag.
if your using paint stripper, i would strip it first (if your worried about the decals, clean them with windex, it will take them off), after the paint striper has done its thing i would sand it with medium grit sandpaper (i use 200 - 600) in the nooks and crannies and give the whole frame a once over, then use a grease and wax remover before primer/paint.
No problem. If you use new parts not in the original style it's a resto-mod, if you use old parts from other bikes or make your own to put on there, it's a rat rod. Either way, nobody here is overly concerned about what it's called, we just have fun building bikes and watching others do the same. Be careful if you go on a Schwinn only forum, there will always be purists who insist on a classical restoration, and they can get a little flustered when someone doesn't go along with the game plan.
For stripping rust off chrome, I use a bass wool pad and elbow grease. To strip the paint off the frame I use a paint stripping wire brush on a power drill. Keep in mind I can't use chemicals due to a medical condition, but for you the right chemicals might make your life a lot easier.
A quick heads up on tire size. Because Schwinn used their own rims the frames generally don't allow much space if you use a new set of rims or bigger tires. It's by no means impossible to go bigger, but the fit can get a little tight. On my '74 Schwinn Speedster, I put on a pair of 2.125 tires with a rounded tire shape (some tires have more squared sides), and those little whiskers that are on new tires are rubbing against the rear fork on both sides. This is my only Schwinn so I don't know if it makes a difference on other models. I would guess that with the previous generation of Schwinns it won't be a problem because they were built for balloon tires.
For parts, I'm a huge advocate of local bike co-ops. They should have hundreds of stems and handlebars, brake pads, and every size screw or bolt you'll need. Plus they have all the measuring tools and specialized bike tools that nobody knows even exists when working on their first bike. And because most of the parts you can buy are used, they're also very cheap. And most bike co-op guys are like the people in this forum, knowledgeable and more than happy to help someone else out.
As far as the crank and hub are concerned, they might just need a good cleaning and re-greasing. With the older bikes they may have just dried out. I always take pics of the process when disassembling, because everything makes sense when taking something apart, but if you take a day or two off and start putting things back together you might not remember what went where or what the order was.
Yeah ccr, ive been taking her parts off now since yesterday to get ready for the big paint strip. I officially have the bike completely apart with all the parts labeled in their respective ziplock bags with diagrams included where needed. I may be vintage bicycle ignorant, but I'm no fool. Lol.
The crank wasn't as big a deal as I thought, though the bearing casings are pretty rusty/cruddy. Should I soak them in anything?
I have no steal wool or brushes, so ill have to buy this stuff, what kind do I get? Those brushes can really fo some damage can't they? And you guys said to use wd40 while brushing?
How do I get the chain off? Isn't there a master link?
The hub I'm not even messing with at this point. Dunno if it works with more than the one speed I tested it on. I didn't know to.
I wanna get the frame and other parts stripped and cleaned for now. Whick I'm ready to do. So now what? Lol
The crank wasn't as big a deal as I thought, though the bearing casings are pretty rusty/cruddy. Should I soak them in anything?
I have no steal wool or brushes, so ill have to buy this stuff, what kind do I get? Those brushes can really fo some damage can't they? And you guys said to use wd40 while brushing?
How do I get the chain off? Isn't there a master link?
The hub I'm not even messing with at this point. Dunno if it works with more than the one speed I tested it on. I didn't know to.
I wanna get the frame and other parts stripped and cleaned for now. Whick I'm ready to do. So now what? Lol
if i wanted to buy a new crank system (inside and out) is it a pretty easy find and fit for my bike? what size do i look for?
and what's the story with springer forks? is is more of a fashion than function thing?
one question at a time i guess huh.
thanks.
and what's the story with springer forks? is is more of a fashion than function thing?
one question at a time i guess huh.
thanks.
I believe that you should be able to use a standard one piece crank set for a Schwinn. All of my vintage Schwinns are Stingrays, and I love the way they look stock, so I've never actually tried using another brand on one. The sites that I mentioned in your intro all sell one piece cranks and bearing sets. I've only ever seen one piece sets come in small (kids bikes) or large (full size bikes). The only other size options I've seen relate to the number and size of the bearings in the ring, but the rings are pretty much one size fits most. You'd want a large for yours. Check http://www.niagaracycle.com
Before you replace them, try soaking them in PB Blaster, which is a penetrant and rust remover that I and several others swear by. You can get it at Auto Zone. You would be amazed at how well bearings last. I've pulled out sets that were frozen solid with dried grease and rust, and a few hits of PB and some elbow grease later, they shine and spin like new.
To remove your chain, go to your LBS (local bike shop) and ask for a Park chain tool. It'll run you about $14 but its the best investment you can make if you're going to be working on bikes.
For rust removal, you're better off using brass wool from your grocery store's cleaning aisle than steel wool. You won't damage chrome with brass. WD-40 is used as a lubricant that makes it easier and keeps it from scratching.
Springer forks are a mixed bag. Some work really well, most, like Monark or Schwinn style repops, are mainly for style and aren't built to handle any real abuse beyond daily riding.
Before you replace them, try soaking them in PB Blaster, which is a penetrant and rust remover that I and several others swear by. You can get it at Auto Zone. You would be amazed at how well bearings last. I've pulled out sets that were frozen solid with dried grease and rust, and a few hits of PB and some elbow grease later, they shine and spin like new.
To remove your chain, go to your LBS (local bike shop) and ask for a Park chain tool. It'll run you about $14 but its the best investment you can make if you're going to be working on bikes.
For rust removal, you're better off using brass wool from your grocery store's cleaning aisle than steel wool. You won't damage chrome with brass. WD-40 is used as a lubricant that makes it easier and keeps it from scratching.
Springer forks are a mixed bag. Some work really well, most, like Monark or Schwinn style repops, are mainly for style and aren't built to handle any real abuse beyond daily riding.
I'm thinking of keeping the crank stock, I think its s one piece and won't come apart from the arms? Its still a good crank and I'd like to keep some things stock. But I may go with new guts, just maybe to start fresh with new bearings and cones etc that shine like I'm hoping to get the crank to shine.but I'm not sure.
Also not sure about rims, I like the fact that the rear hub is a two speed (though I dont know if it works as such and now the bike is apart). There is some rust on the rims of course, and I was told that if I don't take the spokes off and clean in those holes and nooks, the rust will get worse around them (the base of the spoke). Not sure if I want to take all these spokes off and clean it all, as I kind of dig the rims with more spokes on them ironically), almost so they look like the wire wheels you'd see on a car or motorcycle. Is this rim rust issue true?
Is this brass wool from the grocery just the typical scouring ball you'd use for pots and pans? The soapless ones? Or does it come in different grades?
Where do you live in upstate ny Johnny nighthawk? I live just outside the Syracuse area and don't know anyone nearby who I can learn from or any clubs around dedicated to this kind of thing. Thanks for the tips.
Also not sure about rims, I like the fact that the rear hub is a two speed (though I dont know if it works as such and now the bike is apart). There is some rust on the rims of course, and I was told that if I don't take the spokes off and clean in those holes and nooks, the rust will get worse around them (the base of the spoke). Not sure if I want to take all these spokes off and clean it all, as I kind of dig the rims with more spokes on them ironically), almost so they look like the wire wheels you'd see on a car or motorcycle. Is this rim rust issue true?
Is this brass wool from the grocery just the typical scouring ball you'd use for pots and pans? The soapless ones? Or does it come in different grades?
Where do you live in upstate ny Johnny nighthawk? I live just outside the Syracuse area and don't know anyone nearby who I can learn from or any clubs around dedicated to this kind of thing. Thanks for the tips.
I'm in Woodstock, about 45 minutes south of Albany. I'm part of the Dusty Spokes BC in Kingston, there's about 40 of us. As far as I know, we're the only upstate bike club. The rust issue on your wheels is really not such a big deal. The bike is almost 50 years old, and its taken that long for them to rust as much as they have... As long as you keep them dry, they should be fine for many years to come, but newer wheels are always an option if they fit the look you're going for.
You can find different grades of brass wool, but the ones I use are the ones for pots and pans. Work fine for me.
The "crank" actually refers to the arms. The "chainring" or "sprocket" is what you're talking about removing. That does come off of the crank, but it can be tricky.
One of the members here, xddorox, has a site that is awesome for explaining how to work on these old bikes. In fact, I found this site through his site. Check it out. http://www.howtofixbikes.ca/2007/01/inexpensive-custom-bicycle-or-rat-rod.html There's some really great stuff there, and its all explained really well.
You can find different grades of brass wool, but the ones I use are the ones for pots and pans. Work fine for me.
The "crank" actually refers to the arms. The "chainring" or "sprocket" is what you're talking about removing. That does come off of the crank, but it can be tricky.
One of the members here, xddorox, has a site that is awesome for explaining how to work on these old bikes. In fact, I found this site through his site. Check it out. http://www.howtofixbikes.ca/2007/01/inexpensive-custom-bicycle-or-rat-rod.html There's some really great stuff there, and its all explained really well.
You are corretc, sir! Schwinn's 'junior' line w/double straight bars like the Tornado, Flying Star, Skipper, and 62 Typhoon used bolt on kickstands as a cost saver. ~Adam
