Spray Painting...What do you guys use?

[Danimal]

So, my buildoff bike is getting ready to paint and I'm out of my area of expertise. :lol:

What do you guys use when spray painting frames, wheels, etc? I know once I strip the old paint, I need to prime with some good etching primer, then filler primer, sand (repeat until smooth) and then paint with color. But, do you use enamal, laquer, or??? Clear coat afterwards? Any brands you reccomend? Also, when would you apply any body filler needed (to fix small dents)?

Somebody want to do a paint tutorial?

Dan

 

[olschbp]

sounds like sensor's area of expertise, hope he chimes in for you, by the way, was your frame ok/ no cracks? I hope

 

[Danimal]

sounds like sensor's area of expertise, hope he chimes in for you, by the way, was your frame ok/ no cracks? I hope

Thanks for asking! I didn't see any cracks, thank God. The brazing was a mess in some spots, but it will do. There are some pics in the second page of my build thread.

 

[KZ1000]

Best bet is a GOOD enamel, DO NOT skimp and buy the cheapest spray paint it will not cover worth a ______ . I have had excellent results with Rustoleum and other $5.-6. a can paints. I have brush painted gas pumps with Rustoleum in quarts and also had great results with no brush marks. Gives an Excellent shine, some have said it will fade if left in the sun. No problem filling in imperfections with body filler.
I personally spray with compressed air and an HVLP gun now, more costly but can't beat the results

 

[deorman]

I also like Rustoleum. Lacquer looks real purty, but it's more work, and not as durable as enamel.

 

[Danimal]

Rick,

What kind of primers do you use? And do you spray them with the HVLP gun too?

I'm thinking a painting road trip to Mass? :lol: 8)

 

[KZ1000]

Yes I also spray etching primer if I sandblast or grind to bare metal. otherwise just any decent primer. My paint of choice is Dupont or Nason.
I don't mind the painting part, but the prep always bores me, The whole process and clean-up is time consuming, If you left a piece with me it may be ready in 6 months or so, give or take a year

 

[karfer67]

pink house paint :lol:

 

[sensor]

_.

 

[elvis51]

rustoleum is what ive found to have the best results for rattle cans. i like the way it sprays better than krylon and it covers more i think, the only thing i like about krylon is the nozzel they use. other than that, rustoleum all the way!!!

Easy E

 

[deorman]

Yeah, I think 2 or 3 stage one-part paints(rattle can or gun)is fine for low-buck build/learning experience. Like I tell myself when my precious gets stolen or run over, it's only a bicycle. Of course, if you want to dive in to pro type finishing, go for it! My frame was blasted and immediately primed with plain red oxide around 30 years ago :shock: ,it was still fine when I pulled it out a few weeks ago 8).

 

[B607]

I can't stress enough what sensor said about handling a bare metal frame. If it's fresh from the blast cabinet, don't do it unless you are wearing nitrile gloves. I blasted my own frames at the machine shop where I worked, took them out of the blast cabinet wearing nitrile gloves and primed them right there on the spot, immediately. No wiping, no sanding, no blowing with wet compressor air. Prime it, fast! If you close those pores in the steel with primer immediately, it will be years and years before rust will form under the primer/paint. If there is a little blasting dust sticking to the frame after you prime the first coat, you can sand it lightly before the second coat of primer.
I have a Schwinn balloon frame that I found laying in a neighbors pasture. Totally ate up with pits so deep the serial number was gone. Chunks rusted out of the lower seat tube. Rims, spokes, and fenders had turned to dust. I used the above method and primed and painted the frame. It's spent the last 15yrs. hanging in my unheated barn and when I took it down last week it still showed no rust, even in the heavily pitted areas. I'll take a pic if you want to see it. Gary

 

[Danimal]

Ok, this is good info, but I have another question.

I sanded my frame to bare metal and handled it, touched it, washed it, got grease on it, touched it some more and it has now been sitting for weeks. When I get ready to paint, what do I do? If I remember from my limited body shop training, I should wash with soap and water, let dry, then wipe down with a wax and grease remover immediately before priming. Is that correct? If not, what should I do?

Dan

 

[sensor]

_.

 

[ej599]

I like gold.

 

[Wildcat]

Same here, rustoleum gloss enamel. 3.77 a can at walmart. I also use rustoleum primer. It seems to be a little thicker than others, making it easier to cover small blemishes and nicks on the bike. My schwinn stills looks shiny and bright after 3 years.

 

[ej599]

Once I get the paint off, wearing nitrile or rubber gloves, I final sand with 80 grit to make sure the primer can bite into the metal. I then wipe it down with a rag soaked with Omni MS 251 multi purpose solvent. This is available at any auto body supply shop. I get mine at Marks United in Colchester. Follwed by a tack cloth rub down, then I prime. For bicycles, I just use rustoleum. Duplicolor has a nice filler primer in a spray can also. ALWAYS wear some clean rubber gloves when handling the object that is to be painted. You don't want the oils from your fingers on there. Even after it is primed wear them. Wipe with a tack cloth and top coat. Humidity is also an issue. Don't paint on a rainy day even in a garage. I screwed up a couple paint jobs that way. For bicycles I top coat with Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel. Practice on some metal before you paint your bike. Good luck!

Heres my chopper I painted with MTK uretane.

Here's my son's '55 Schwinn I painted with Rustoleum metallic and clear.

Duplicolor metal specs and rustoleum clear on this one.

 

[stretch]

personally, i like results from rust-oleum, found at all hardware stores and such. i also buy krylon, and some other various paints. im not too picky, but rust-oleum seems to go on the best, and dries the fastest and hardest.

 

[Downtune]

I use Wattyl Kill-Rust. It's a boring, boring paint, but it's durable and easy to use.

 

[NLCTVWguy]

Boy, I don't know where you guys live, but around here, maybe it's the humidity or something.... Rustoleum just DOES NOT DRY. I've used it at work extensively becausethats what they give us. It'll be tacky 4-6 hours later. Total garbage if you ask me. The only paint of theirs I've had good results with is their "Rusty Metal Primer", a red-brown primer.

The enamel colors by Rustoleum are terrible and I find it ridiculous that I'm waiting hours for these parts when other parts of a project are dry long ago.

Use Dupli-Color. There are lots of choices, lots of professional formulations, lots of special automotive type products by them. Get it at NAPA or other auto stores. You can get red grey or black primer, black semi-gloss (rat rodders favorite!) metallics, and engine colors. I'm doing a white bike right now as well as bumpers for my VW Bus in white Duplicolor gloss, and a Phantom chainguard using their Chevy Orange engine paint.

The stuff dries quick, stinks like it has dangerous solvents, and always sprays nicely.

My 2 cents... your mileage may vary!

--Rob