(WBO) A reasonable facsimile thereof

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The middle of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan
We are going bike riding the UK in May for the 40th wedding anniversary. We want to have the whole trip paid off before we leave. With this in mind I have come up for my own rules and goal for this winter build.
1. I can't buy anything, I gotta use what I got
2. No stealing of parts from any of my already built bikes, I can only use junk that was in my scrap trailer
3. Its got to be something I will use
4. I don't have a lot of time so it has to be simple and I have to get the project out of our family room so we can ride the indoor bicycle trainers to to get ready for the UK
5. I don't have an indoor workspace so it will have to be small
6. It's got to be fun to ride
7. To come in last in the winter build off

I went to camp and emptied my scrap trailer. I have a lot of cheap bikes in there, road, mountain, five 20 inch bikes and one 16 inch. Two of the 20 inch bikes are the same. The 20 inchers are all cheap, all steel and heavy. I measured up the frame geometry on all the 20 inch bikes and the one that I have a duplicate for is the closest to a 20 inch mod trials bike. There are a lot of sites on the net that list the specs for trials bikes or the ideal specs. Here is a comparison with my chosen 20 inch bike and the basic ideal geometry for a 20 inch mod trials bike.
1. Wheel base = 930mm with 980mm to 1030 ideal
2. Bottom bracket rise = 10mm with the ideal being 0 to 100mm
3. Chain stay length = 360mm with ideal being 350mm to 395 which is great as this is the hardest to modify
4. Axle to crown = 320mm with ideal being 360mm to 390.
5. Fork off set = 25mm with ideal being 25mm to 45.

If I use a 26 inch fork I can improve the geometry, providing the one i have fits OK.
1. wheel base would now be 970mm
2. Bottom bracket rise would now be 30mm
3. Axle to crown would now be 400mm
4. Fork off set would now be 25mm
A fork from a 24 inch bike might be better but I must have recycled them all in an earlier purge as I can't find any 24 inch parts, nuts.
I have a freewheel that works on the bottom bracket like trials bikes but it is on another bike so I can't use that. I am not going to make a bottom bracket bash plate or a bash plate for the sprocket. A common drive ratio for a 20 inch mod trials bike is 1 to 1.5 18x12=1.5. The closest I can come with what I got is 1 to 1.59 using 30x19. This is a big front cog and would be prone to bashing but I am going to be using this bike to improve my balance and anyway it will be way to heavy and have subpar brakes for any bashing.

With all this in mind I am going to attempt to toss together a REASONABLE FACSIMILE THEROF for a 20 inch mod trials bike. I hope this meets all the winter build off rules as it is not really a muscle bike? Let me know if this isn't OK before I start to build it. Thanks.
 
:rofl:
My new goal will be next to last, LOL
Someone has to come in last. I figured it would help give the other guys confidence, knowing they would no longer have to be worry about being last. Sounds like you and I are in a contest for the bottom. Usually I am happy with getting in the upper half of the lower third of anything but I know with this project I will not be able to obtain my usual high standards.
 
Here is what I am going for. A picture from the net, not mine. These type of borrowed pictures seem to have a habit of disappearing, saying sorry removed by the user or some such stuff.
This bike has a 19 inch rear wheel with 2.5 inch rear tire. All the fasteners are titanium, pedals titanium/magnesium and many other parts like the freewheel are titanium. In comparison mine will feel like it is made from depleted uranium. Looks like some kind of esoteric artistic torture machine because of the missing seat. Mine will have a rudimentary seat just to fill the seat tube opening.

I am going to have to find another free set of handlebar grips because my daughters puppy just ate mine. I don't have a stem with the right rise or length that is not on a bike already. The one in the picture is the longest I could find in my junk.


 
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We have different ideas for builds - but the same budget. :arghh:
BTW, If you want a pic to "stay around" copy it to your hard drive, then put it into your photobucket, and RRB.:)
 
Here is what I am going for. A picture from the net, not mine. These type of borrowed pictures seem to have a habit of disappearing, saying sorry removed by the user or some such stuff.
This bike has a 19 inch rear wheel with 2.5 inch rear tire. All the fasteners are titanium, pedals titanium/magnesium and many other parts like the freewheel are titanium. In comparison mine will feel like it is made from depleted uranium. Looks like some kind of esoteric artistic torture machine because of the missing seat. Mine will have a rudimentary seat just to fill the seat tube opening.

I am going to have to find another free set of handlebar grips because my daughters puppy just ate mine. I don't have a stem with the right rise or length that is not on a bike already. The one in the picture is the longest I could find in my junk.


I think you have the only 20 inch bike in the WBO right now. I've seen these bikes in action. Gotta be very tight brakes stout wheels and tires. Parkour of bicycles.
 
Wow!
Pars-Bike-Trials-Cup-2013-14.jpg


Pars-Bike-Trials-Cup-2013-3.jpg


http://www.payvand.com/news/13/sep/1051.html
 
I will only try the wow, none of that other stuff. There is a fairly remote hiking trail along Lake Superior about 10 miles west of me that has a lot of logs and boulders that I will go and see what I can do in the late spring after the snow and ice leave. That is providing I can get the bike to work. I only have steel wheels and weak brakes. I did get rid of a set of alloy 20 inch wheels with a single speed free wheel. This was before I had the mod brainstorm.
 
If Trials on a bicycle is like on a motorcycle, the longest time with out going out of bounds of falling wins! Gotta have great balance.:)
 
I think I have the layout I want to try. I will have to ride it this spring to decide if I want to go back to the 20 inch front wheel. I am getting in hot water because the bike is taking up the yoga area and giving the meditation space bad karma. I cut off some of the head tube and the seatpost tube. I spread the front fork to 100mm with my trusty gauge and spreader. There is a lot of ground clearance and the front wheel looks like it will clear my foot in a turn. The brakes are going to be real wimpy. I think it will be OK for what I want. I want to balance riding on beach logs, go up some rock steps along the beach and just balance without worrying about how far off the bike I am going to fall. If I like it, then next summer I will look for better parts at the thrift stores. Its not done, nothing is greased or adjusted.
 
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I was looking at my parts last night, I have a 1" quill stem, nice shape, with about 5" reach center to center and maybe a 10 degree rise. shoot me a note if its something you can use. The stem is probably a Kalloy or something
 
I was looking at my parts last night, I have a 1" quill stem, nice shape, with about 5" reach center to center and maybe a 10 degree rise. shoot me a note if its something you can use. The stem is probably a Kalloy or something
Thanks, I just measured mine with a mic and I get 21.0mm. I have another but the stem is a little too big 22.2mm. 25.4mm is one inch so I guess it would be too big? Is this how they are measured?
 
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I dug a little more, I found a 22.2 quill stem, steel, black painted "mongoose". about a 40 degree rise with 4.5" reach center to center. Fits a bunch of my adult vintage forks but will not fit a random kids fork from a 16" wheel bike. So kids forks must have a slightly thicker steerer tube or something. Not all 1" stems are created equal...
 

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