Hey guys, I recently purchased a November 1968 Schwinn Apple krate all original off the RRB Facebook page, and the old owner "forgot" to mention the stem was stuck. You can tell he knew it was stuck because he cut the stem bolt out, and ground the top of the stem. The bike is original paint so I really don't wanna heat it. I'm not naming names, but when you sell a bike I think you should mentioned the stem and springer mount are stuck in the frame.... the bike was completely taken apart besides the crank set and stem when he shipped it to me, without and padding or protectant for the paint/chrome. When I asked him about it he said "oh yeah I knew it was stuck, just forgot to tell you" after I questioned him about it and he has cut all contact with me since. So I'm trying to get this stem out, and suggestions, it's been soaking in liquid wrench for about 3 days now, and nothing on it will budge. I can replace the stem with a correct dated one, I just need help getting the old one out. Thoughts? Please and thank you.
Stuck Stem, Help!!!
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Kind of a move. Posted on your fresh finds post that Kroil Oil is supposed to be the best. Good luck dude.
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Only things I can think of...
Put a junk stem bolt in the hole after soaking and smack it with a heavy rubber mallet to try to break the old bolt loose.
Or cut the stem off and heat the steer tube to try to pound it out... I really don't recommend this though.
10,000% agree
Put a junk stem bolt in the hole after soaking and smack it with a heavy rubber mallet to try to break the old bolt loose.
Or cut the stem off and heat the steer tube to try to pound it out... I really don't recommend this though.
10,000% agree
Is the bottom of the springer open? If so, you can shoot some of the liquid wrench with the bike upside down for 3 more days, then try to free it again.
One more way, if the fork tube can be accessed from the under side, is to get a steel rod larger than the original tightening bolt, slide it in until it contacts the stem, and hammer it up and out.
Or, with the bike upside down and supported, put the stem in a vice, then use a lever between the forks, near the crown, and try to turn the forks. I've bent forks that way before, so be careful not to get too much leverage on it.
One more way, if the fork tube can be accessed from the under side, is to get a steel rod larger than the original tightening bolt, slide it in until it contacts the stem, and hammer it up and out.
Or, with the bike upside down and supported, put the stem in a vice, then use a lever between the forks, near the crown, and try to turn the forks. I've bent forks that way before, so be careful not to get too much leverage on it.
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The quality that is usually most absent in situations like these is patience--penetrating lubricants take time. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Kroil are all good, but are also expensive. The best solution I've found, dollar-for-dollar, is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. You can make a half gallon of that stuff for the cost of a single can of the others...and it's slippery sauce.
Also, it was clear from your original post that the stem bolt was cut, but are you certain that the wedge itself was driven out? If that isn't obvious, then do double check. Then, slather on the juice and give it a chance to do its thing. Paired with a sufficient amount of tugging, twisting, and a few choice curse words, the part is likely to come free.
Also, it was clear from your original post that the stem bolt was cut, but are you certain that the wedge itself was driven out? If that isn't obvious, then do double check. Then, slather on the juice and give it a chance to do its thing. Paired with a sufficient amount of tugging, twisting, and a few choice curse words, the part is likely to come free.
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BE CAREFUL. THIS IS A SOLID STEEL ROBUST FORK. I BENT MY PEUGEOT FORK DOING THE BUT I GOT IT OUT. I GOT A PERFECT MATCH REPLACEMENT FROM EBAY.
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As Wildcat pointed out above, the fork is best wedged as closely to the crown as possible to minimize any twisting force on the blades. I'd get that pry bar nestled right down in the crotch.
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It was in the crotch, otherwise all the force just goes to twisting the blades. When I took the picture I had to move it so it wouldn't fall on the floor. The Peugeot fork was very light Chromo and it dented at the fork crown so I had to replace it. The former owner had rounded the allen bolt trying to get it loose so I had to weld an old allen wrench into the bolt and use a pipe. It came loose but the fork was destroyed. Sometimes you have to destroy the fork and get a replacement. Usually if you are patient one comes op on the bay
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I get that, but I feared that the photo might mislead other, less experienced ratters into placing their own lever too high within the blades, risking damage. You and I are absolutely on the same page--I just wanted to make sure everyone else is, too.
A guess ; When the stem bolt is tightened, the wedge tilts inside the steer tube. So, if you can determine the spot on the wedge to hammer on with a steel rod to straighten the wedge , then it will move.
Just had similar problem to solve yesterday. Just take that truncated nut, that is supposed to be inside the head tube on the other end of the long bolt (don't know a proper name for that part) and some long steel stick, then take your fork out. Hold it in your hand upside down, then hit it with a hammer, little by little it would come out without any damage.
Here is a little illustration to make sure that i make sense
Here is a little illustration to make sure that i make sense
50/50 transmission fluid and acetone that rustysprockets mentioned is the best stuff, I've been using it for a few years now.
Be aware the acetone may get into original paint, don't just pour it everywhere.
I've had luck using boiling water to get heat on things with original paint. A few hot cold cycles will sometimes help break things loose.
I keep some scraps of thick leather in my tool box to pad things if I have to use a pry bar, helps a lot to prevent dents. Conveyor belt is great too if you ever find any.
Be aware the acetone may get into original paint, don't just pour it everywhere.
I've had luck using boiling water to get heat on things with original paint. A few hot cold cycles will sometimes help break things loose.
I keep some scraps of thick leather in my tool box to pad things if I have to use a pry bar, helps a lot to prevent dents. Conveyor belt is great too if you ever find any.
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I wouldn't be too hasty about cutting the stem. That would permit removal of parts from the headset, but you'd still have to contend with the remnants stuck inside the steerer. Just an opinion, but I think that may be made more difficult with the gooseneck cut away.
If this were an aluminum stem, I might feel differently because the bond between dissimilar metals can be virtually unbreakable. Steel-on-steel, however, can usually be coaxed apart.
If this were an aluminum stem, I might feel differently because the bond between dissimilar metals can be virtually unbreakable. Steel-on-steel, however, can usually be coaxed apart.
I dealt with something very similar on a Fair Lady parts bike last Summer. After soaking it with PB Blaster for a few days I wedged the front wheel between two posts of a rod iron fence. I then stuck a long breaker bar in the hole of the stem and alternately pushed in both directions. It took about three minutes before it finally popped loose. I cleaned to stem up in the oxalic acid bath and it looks brand new.
I agree.... aluminum can gall to steel to such an extent that you can't coax it out without destroying one or both parts. Steel on steel, though, is usually just going to take lots of penetrating oil, lots of patience, and a fair amount of brute strength...
UPDATE: as on last night the stem is out, here is how it happened. After soaking in liquid wrench for about a week, after multiple tries, I locked the stem in the vice(i gave up on saving that stem) and I put a long metal rod through the lower springer piece, and with a few choice curse words and a heck of a lot of force it came out. I found out the reason it was stuck, the stem bolt was snapped off inside of the frame, making it unable to come out, either way I'm starting the rust-o-ration on this bike this weekend
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