WINONA RIDER: finished

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Found 2 options that I think will work for lighting the orb, and accommodating the limited space for hardware.

This one has a metal casing for the coin batteries, so I could just put a magnet on the backside of the steertube and it's good to go.

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This one has a much finer wire, and it isn't bright white, so a lower profile. I prefer this wire setup to offset any clearance issues as well. However, the switch/battery pack is a bit more bulky and likely plastic. It still uses coin batteries, but it's going to be harder to blend into the frame. I've asked if they offer a different switch option, so we'll see.

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Haven't heard back from the second seller on their light, so I went ahead and ordered the first option due to ease of application, and to have it in hand before the BO deadline.
 
Took her out on a maiden voyage! I wanted to get some video footage, but I was getting a bunch of attention, which is great, but it's like everyone wanting to play with your toy before you've had a chance to play with it 🤣.

So first ride down the street was very mushy. This was expected with the springer fork, but this made it a pedal scraper. So I added a nut as a spacer to tighten up the suspension a bit, and the second ride was perfect!

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Though I didn't get video, I finally got some outdoor shots.

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I love it! The different colored wheels/rims are a perfect match to the frame fade paint.
Thanks! It turned out even better than I imagined. Once I get it dialed in, I'll get the chainguard on as well.
 
Two things that need to be addressed:
1. Probably going to have to add the brace back to the fender.
2. Pendaling forward and braking were great, but when I would pedal, then coast, there would be a rattle in the rear hub.

I took the wheel off, and realized the rear sprocket had some play in its setting. So I pulled it off, and saw the setting teeth were a little knubby.

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So I switched it out with another, and that solved the fit, but not the rattle.

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Me thinks the bearings are shot. Will have to address the hub later.
 
Lots to love about this build! The fade you created from front to back and mixing the parts in to match... :thumbsup:

For me, there is only one thing that draws my eye away from this. And for me, keeps it from being a :113:....

Looks like you could get either of these with days to spare.... :nod::nerd::wink1:
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Lots to love about this build! The fade you created from front to back and mixing the parts in to match... :thumbsup:

For me, there is only one thing that draws my eye away from this. And for me, keeps it from being a :113:....

Looks like you could get either of these with days to spare.... :nod::nerd::wink1:
View attachment 241651
Still debating the grips. I have a couple options 'in hand' (pun intended).

1.
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2.
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3.
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I am tying in the manacles from 'My Pet Monster'. However, the seatpost clamp and bottom of steer tube might be sufficient.

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TLDR: I got the orb to light up and my ideas for construction/assembly worked out beautifully!

Here's how it worked...

This is the space I have to work with for any internal components.

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I originally had a washer and a flat end machine screw pinching the orb cage in place. Believe it or not, this was extremely solid, however, I wanted to be able to screw the acorn nut completely down for added security (it tightened down about 2/3 of total depth).

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So I decided to use a tapered head machine screw to sink it a little lower. As I tightened it, of course, the taper spread the two parts of the cage that were formally pinched securely, thus defeating the purpose. I had this picture-mounting hardware on my work bench, and realized it could act as both a finishing washer as well as a cap to keep the wire from spreading at the mounting point.

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So with the screw in place, I now have even less space to work with.

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In order to light the entire orb in such a way that it can be seen from all directions, I needed to add a reflector of some sort. I removed the reflector out of a mini flashlight, but it was clearly too big (depth wise) to fit as-is.

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I trimmed it down a bit, but it still sat a bit proud when inserted in the steertube.

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I decided to attach the dollhouse LED assembly to see where I would need to trim further, and by how much.

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It turned out it only needed a slight trim, so instead of cutting the reflector down any further, I simply filed a channel at the base so it would cradle the screw. This will also keep it from shifting or rattling.

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I then took a bathtub drain gasket, and trimmed it to fill the small gap between steertube and orb. As I mentioned before, the orb cage is extremely secure and rigid. I had no fear of it bouncing around or cracking against the edge of the steertube. However, the gasket will keep water out, and keep any stray light from peaking through the seam. In the off chance I hit a pothole at 100mph during an earthquake vibrating at the perfect frequency to rattle the orb cage, I now have a liitle cushion to cradle and protect the orb itself.
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After re-assembling everything, I played with a couple of mounting positions for the switch/battery pack. I used an earth magnet on the steertube itself, then put it on the screw head. I bent the tabs back on the finishing washer thinking it would cradle the battery pack. It's a bit wide, so I will likely trim the tabs off, and just keep the battery pack mounted to the steertube. I will see how much (if at all) the magnet shifts during a ride, and if there is significant shifting, I will add some silicone caulk to keep it in place.

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And now the pièce de résistance...

"LET THERE BE LIGHT!"

From beneath:
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From the side:
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From above:
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I may put a small spring (from a mechanical pencil) at the base of the wire to prevent stress/bending, and may color the wire to make it a little less pronounced.
 
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