+1 on the gusset styling. Looking good.
MUTT
- Thread starter Bike from the Dead
- Start date
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It could totally work as both an off roader and a skinny wheel bike, but I personally like wider tires more than skinny tires. Still, it'll be easy enough to convert this bike to a muscle bike whenever I feel like it!
Thanks!
Small update for today: I need to replace Mutt's seat post. The one that came with the frame is just ever-so-slightly bent, and I don't have a replacement currently. I'll probably post a want ad on the forums later, but I'd like to check with my contacts to see if they have anything first. If they have the seat post I need, they may even have some other parts I can use, and I wouldn't have to mess with shipping, just driving. I just might have to wait a bit as the weather here in Oklahoma just got a lot colder, and is going to be even uglier in the next few days, and I'd hate to ask my contacts to look for a specific seat post when it's freezing outside.
I took some measurements of the seat post I have, as well as the seat tube inner diameter, between yesterday and this morning.
Thing is, while my seat post has a 16mm/0.625in diameter up top, the banana seats I'd use need a later 22mm/0.875in diameter top. Granted, I could probably get away with using a smaller seat clamp and some washers, but if I could get something that's just a simple bolt on, it'll make everything that much easier.
So in short, I need a 12.5" long seat post with a roughly 20mm/0.775in body diameter and a 22mm/0.87in upper diameter, or something close to that.
I took some measurements of the seat post I have, as well as the seat tube inner diameter, between yesterday and this morning.
Thing is, while my seat post has a 16mm/0.625in diameter up top, the banana seats I'd use need a later 22mm/0.875in diameter top. Granted, I could probably get away with using a smaller seat clamp and some washers, but if I could get something that's just a simple bolt on, it'll make everything that much easier.
So in short, I need a 12.5" long seat post with a roughly 20mm/0.775in body diameter and a 22mm/0.87in upper diameter, or something close to that.
Thank you! I'm glad I not only had that idea, but also made it a reality!The new gussets look great! Using those old bearing races for dimples really works, that was some good creative thinking.
That is really versatile frame. Ever configuration looks good with it.
Thanks! Yeah, even I'm surprised at how many ways I can change the attitude of this bike with just a simple wheel and tire swap!
That's a fine pair of modern twin tubes you got there!I owned a couple of Trek Earl single speeds with the same twin top tube/seat stays.
IMO, the twin tubes make for a more flexible frame and a smoother ride. The black one was too tall so I sold it.
Once I get more of my bikes built, I'll be able to test for those differences myself.
Small update on Mutt.
Yesterday, I think I solved my seat post issue. Turns out the seat post clamp was on the frame super tight, pinching the seat tube to a noticeably smaller diameter.
Using a screwdriver, seat post and hammer, I managed to open that seat tube back up to a reasonable size.
I also found that I had a near-identical replacement for my seat post, and this one was nice and straight! I even managed to slide that thing all the way inside the frame with no* issue!
Well, there's still one issue. The top of the seat tube's still kind of narrow compared to the rest of the seat tube, and I noticed that there's a bit of wiggle room for the 12-inch-long seat post while it's inserted in the frame. I'm wondering if this frame was supposed to have a 13/16" seat post, but someone swapped it out with a 3/4" seat post at some point. I did some experimenting, and found that all my Murray frames took a 3/4" seat post, though even they have pinched seat tube tops. I know I can just use the seat post I've got and it'll work, but I don't know for sure just who built this frame, and what exact size seat post it's supposed to actually take.
One other thing I played around with yesterday was the chain guard. When Allan and I made the tab for the chain guard mount, I didn't have the chainguard placed exactly where I thought I did. So unfortunately, it looks off from where I initially had it.
(BEFORE)
(AFTER)
I have an idea of how to fix it, but I need to pop out the rivets at the back of the chainguard and make a new bracket for it to sit correctly. If I can still use the same chain guard, that's what I'd like to do, but I would not be surprised if I need to get a replacement. All small details for later.
I probably won't be getting much done on Mutt or my other bikes this week, as the weather's looking pretty ugly for the most part. Good news is that gives me just the excuse I need to work on my art again.
Yesterday, I think I solved my seat post issue. Turns out the seat post clamp was on the frame super tight, pinching the seat tube to a noticeably smaller diameter.
Using a screwdriver, seat post and hammer, I managed to open that seat tube back up to a reasonable size.
I also found that I had a near-identical replacement for my seat post, and this one was nice and straight! I even managed to slide that thing all the way inside the frame with no* issue!
Well, there's still one issue. The top of the seat tube's still kind of narrow compared to the rest of the seat tube, and I noticed that there's a bit of wiggle room for the 12-inch-long seat post while it's inserted in the frame. I'm wondering if this frame was supposed to have a 13/16" seat post, but someone swapped it out with a 3/4" seat post at some point. I did some experimenting, and found that all my Murray frames took a 3/4" seat post, though even they have pinched seat tube tops. I know I can just use the seat post I've got and it'll work, but I don't know for sure just who built this frame, and what exact size seat post it's supposed to actually take.
One other thing I played around with yesterday was the chain guard. When Allan and I made the tab for the chain guard mount, I didn't have the chainguard placed exactly where I thought I did. So unfortunately, it looks off from where I initially had it.
(BEFORE)
(AFTER)
I have an idea of how to fix it, but I need to pop out the rivets at the back of the chainguard and make a new bracket for it to sit correctly. If I can still use the same chain guard, that's what I'd like to do, but I would not be surprised if I need to get a replacement. All small details for later.
I probably won't be getting much done on Mutt or my other bikes this week, as the weather's looking pretty ugly for the most part. Good news is that gives me just the excuse I need to work on my art again.
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Your art looks great! Going to look through the thread right now.
Weather was the same here, lots of rain and sometimes too cold to work in the evening...
Thank you!
Fortunately, the garage I build my bikes in has heating, which is why I was able to make some progress on Mutt and a few other bikes this weekend despite the freezing temperatures. That said, I really need to get this coloring book project knocked out soon. Bikes are a hobby, but art is my career, and I've been slacking on the job as of late.
I put these triple trees on my last builds and the V-RROOM motor on the girls bike. Both are NOS 1977 Murray Fire King and Fire Cat forks.
I recently picked up a OCC mini stingray chopper as well. Grabbed just for the forks.
You've got one cool pair of bikes there! Your Mattel Vrroom motor is different from the one I have. Here's mine:
Mine is a 1963. I think that style is the second generation and I believe Sears sold one very similar to yours as well. That motor came on the V-RROOM bicycle as well. Your style was what I had been looking for when I found mine. I'll end up with that style as well eventually.
Cool! If it helps at all, I found my motor on Facebook Marketplace, and thankfully the seller took PayPal and provided shipping. Maybe you could find one for a good price there.
Life update: I just started taking a welding class last night alongside my dad! We're taking a "hobbyist's welding class" for the next 4 weeks, twice a week. We're both learning about MIG and TIG welding, which I hope will come in handy for future bike builds.
We thought the first class last night would be more about discussing the class itself, going over basic welding terminology, but nope! It was hands-on from the start! I was expecting to do poorly my first time in class, but surprisingly, my first tries of laying down beads while MIG-welding turned out better than expected! Turns out, as long as I can sit down, brace one of my arms on the table, and overall just get comfortable, I can actually do alright! Teacher told me I was already at a point where some of his students would need at least a few weeks to get where I was!
Obviously, I still have a lot to learn, but now I feel WAY more confident that I could learn how to weld up some custom bikes! Looking forward to the next class!
We thought the first class last night would be more about discussing the class itself, going over basic welding terminology, but nope! It was hands-on from the start! I was expecting to do poorly my first time in class, but surprisingly, my first tries of laying down beads while MIG-welding turned out better than expected! Turns out, as long as I can sit down, brace one of my arms on the table, and overall just get comfortable, I can actually do alright! Teacher told me I was already at a point where some of his students would need at least a few weeks to get where I was!
Obviously, I still have a lot to learn, but now I feel WAY more confident that I could learn how to weld up some custom bikes! Looking forward to the next class!
Ah the joy of learning! I'm not even on your level, looking good
When MIG welding, do you move your MIG nozzle in a straigth line or do you wobble it a bit left/right?
When my welding JIG is finished, I am taking welding classes too.
Can you bring your own piece of steel to weld in the class? (like a bicycle)? Asking for a friend.
