"Building a welding JIG first" - design process and thoughts

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The whole building is huge and beautifully built back in 1909.

20241007_104058.jpg

20241007_104053.jpg

20241007_103902.jpg

1000034177.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20241007_103902.jpg
    20241007_103902.jpg
    1.2 MB
Last edited:
Practicing some soldering joints with brass worked out pretty good.
I'm learning it also by looking at other bikes. Bikes from builders and factories. Also old brazed bicycles are interesting to watch in regards to technique and style.

I can't remember or find when 'fillet brazing' became a thing, but in the past they just brazed lugless, joint only, no fillet.
Sometimes the brazing is on the inside of the other tube, for example in the bottom bracket. But there is much to learn here for me.

Looking at and thinking about how to braze, and how a frame is set up, I now realize that you can't stitch or spot-weld a tube in place like you can with mig welding.
I now know why these brazing builders use a welding table and clamps to first attach (and align) a few tubes to later fix it in the frame-jig.

That is why I am going to build another tool.
I don't have space for a welding table, not even a small one, so I'll have to fabricate a clamping tool to fix tubes in a adjustable angle.

1000035680.jpg

These are for sale a lot, but is not what I am looking for.
Angle is fixed and different tube diameters need to be shimmed.

So I made a few concepts I will work out in 3D cad:

1000035499.jpg

1000035500.jpg

1000035501.jpg

Feel free to criticize.

The main focus is to:
-Keep tube alignment, despite induced heat.

-Clamp various tube sizes with the centerline always centered.

-Clear the spot that needs to be brazed/easy to work around.

-Easy to move and put in a solid bike stand for working height.

Thanks for reading that!
 
Practicing some soldering joints with brass worked out pretty good.
I'm learning it also by looking at other bikes. Bikes from builders and factories. Also old brazed bicycles are interesting to watch in regards to technique and style.

I can't remember or find when 'fillet brazing' became a thing, but in the past they just brazed lugless, joint only, no fillet.
Sometimes the brazing is on the inside of the other tube, for example in the bottom bracket. But there is much to learn here for me.

Looking at and thinking about how to braze, and how a frame is set up, I now realize that you can't stitch or spot-weld a tube in place like you can with mig welding.
I now know why these brazing builders use a welding table and clamps to first attach (and align) a few tubes to later fix it in the frame-jig.

That is why I am going to build another tool.
I don't have space for a welding table, not even a small one, so I'll have to fabricate a clamping tool to fix tubes in a adjustable angle.

View attachment 282349
These are for sale a lot, but is not what I am looking for.
Angle is fixed and different tube diameters need to be shimmed.

So I made a few concepts I will work out in 3D cad:

View attachment 282350
View attachment 282351
View attachment 282352
Feel free to criticize.

The main focus is to:
-Keep tube alignment, despite induced heat.

-Clamp various tube sizes with the centerline always centered.

-Clear the spot that needs to be brazed/easy to work around.

-Easy to move and put in a solid bike stand for working height.

Thanks for reading that!
Way nicer than the odd fixture thing I made and added magnets to for tacking items

 
Way nicer than the odd fixture thing I made and added magnets to for tacking items


Thats also a great tip Captain.
I would love to see your fixture!

My current concept is made out of 12mm steel.
The four clamping parts need a little machining/cleaning the edges after lasercutting.
There are more stiff/rigid options out there, but this balances strength/stiffness, affordability and ease.

1000035687.png

1000035688.png

1000035689.png


Details/thoughts:
-The large central holes are 25mm. I can solder/braze a tube there in one hole, so I can clamp this, whole thing down in a solid bike stand.

-The small square holes in the clamps are for 8mm nuts. Perfect to cut while the laser is working!
This is not my idea, I watched battlebots a while ago and saw the bot named Shatter. Its hammer utilized that idea, so if the threads get damaged, you can replace the nut. Easy as that!
1000035690.jpg

Thanks!
 
Back
Top