First ever bike build

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This summer I decided to build my own bike for the first time in my life. I have never done this before and also never thought I would do this. So any tips, tricks, advise and comments are appreciated!

As a real Dutchy I owned a lot of bikes in my life already, but this time I wanted something special.
I didn't even know what it was called what I was looking for and I still don't know exactly... cruiser, chopper, bopper...
I found a shop where you could order a custom cruiser build according your wishes. But I thought to myself:" How hard can it be to build your own bike? I'm a technical guy, I studied electrical engineering..."

So after contemplating for several weeks and I finally decided I wanted a Basman Project 346 frame. But of course it was out of stock...
When it was finally available again I ordered one.

First step was to paint it. Neon green was the color to be.
1.JPEG


To mitigate the risk of having all kind of parts laying around while failing to mount even the first part I decided to buy parts just 1 at the time, install the part and then on to the next.

So the first part bought was a triple tree fork and the bottom bracket cups and bearings. The bottom bracket bearing cups where easy. The triple tree fork on the other hand... Different rings, spacers, capsand seals and they all had to be placed in the right order, but finally my dad and I got it working.
To make it easy for myself I also order a one piece crank and installed that.

IMG_3748.HEIC_compressed.JPEG


The next parts were ordered: a stem, handle bar and a seat. But before being able to install those I needed to know what the height of the bike would be. See the bike needed wheels.
I searched the internet for wheels. I wanted thick white-wall tires, but without the difficult stuff like gears or disc brakes. Just a single speed with a coaster brake was good enough for me. After looking some videos about building your own wheels I quickly decided to let somebody else do that for me.
I ordered a set of custom made wheels with 80mm rims with black spokes and 26" 3.0 white-wall tires, single speed with a coaster hub in the rear and a disc brake for the front wheel.

2.JPEG


When the wheels arrived I installed them and it finally started to look like a real bike

4.JPEG


Now the handle bar and the seat could also be mounted.
So this is the current status:

5.JPEG


As you can see it is still missing some essential parts like pedals and a chain.
I've ordered these parts now and will be installed somewhere this week. After that the bike would be ready for a test drive.
After that the auxilary items like fenders and lights will be ordered and installed.

Like already said: Any tips, tricks, comments, remarks, recommendations and advise is appreciated!
 
If you need the seat a little lower to fit just right, you could cut the curved end off the stem which would allow the seat to go a couple inches lower. You may be able to adjust it backward and lower to sit closer to the frame.

I think the handlebar stem may look better facing forward but having to reach way forward to reach the bars when riding might be an issue.

But this is just nitpicking, the bike is great looking as it is. I'd love to get one of those frames.

And Welcome Aboard!:thumbsup:
 
Awesome start!
A few tips (maybe you are aware already):
One piece crank pedals are 1/2" most of the time. Normally pedals have 9/16" threads.
And I hope your chain has enough clearance, so it does not make the whitewall tires dirty.

Depends on your own ride comfort and preferences: But the stem usually is facing forward.

A ratfink theme might fit this build!

Great work!
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

Regarding the handlebar stem; I had it installed the other way around first, but than the reach felt a bit too much. But after that I also changed the position of the seat again... I do agree that it looks better the other way around. I will check if I can turn it around when properly setting up the handlebar and seat again.

I'm aware that the crank is 1/2". I installed adapters to fit 9/16" pedals. Have to experience if the extra 'width' of the pedals is acceptable, otherwise I might change the crank to fit 9/16" pedals directly.

And I hope your chain has enough clearance, so it does not make the whitewall tires dirty.
It looks like I don't have enough clearance :(
Is there any way to increase this clearance?

I love the front disk brake too. But now I still need to figure out how to install the caliper and bleed it correctly :D
 
Thanks for all the feedback!

Regarding the handlebar stem; I had it installed the other way around first, but than the reach felt a bit too much. But after that I also changed the position of the seat again... I do agree that it looks better the other way around. I will check if I can turn it around when properly setting up the handlebar and seat again.

I'm aware that the crank is 1/2". I installed adapters to fit 9/16" pedals. Have to experience if the extra 'width' of the pedals is acceptable, otherwise I might change the crank to fit 9/16" pedals directly.


It looks like I don't have enough clearance :(
Is there any way to increase this clearance?

I love the front disk brake too. But now I still need to figure out how to install the caliper and bleed it correctly :D
First attach the chain to see if you need to make some room. If so, you can make sure the cog on the rear hub is concaved outward, that will give a little clearance. It looks that way already so there are other ways to get some spacing. Your chainwheel looks flat so it can't be flipped to get some space, but it may be possible to add a washer behind it to get room. I can't tell from the pic if there is a washer on the outside of the chainwheel. If it is, just put the washer on the inside instead. Hopefully you have enough clearance just as it sits.

I could drop by with pizza and refreshments to have a look, but you're too far away from the Philippines.🍕🥘
 
First attach the chain to see if you need to make some room. If so, you can make sure the cog on the rear hub is concaved outward, that will give a little clearance. It looks that way already so there are other ways to get some spacing. Your chainwheel looks flat so it can't be flipped to get some space, but it may be possible to add a washer behind it to get room. I can't tell from the pic if there is a washer on the outside of the chainwheel. If it is, just put the washer on the inside instead. Hopefully you have enough clearance just as it sits.

I could drop by with pizza and refreshments to have a look, but you're too far away from the Philippines.🍕🥘
If a convex cog spaced outwards, a convex chainring spaced outwards and washers don’t do it you could try a dished sprocket. I don’t know how deep they are but it’s probably what you need
IMG_0924.png
 
If a convex cog spaced outwards, a convex chainring spaced outwards and washers don’t do it you could try a dished sprocket. I don’t know how deep they are but it’s probably what you need View attachment 284016
Ruff Cycles sells these in europe.
I have a few if you can't find one Sepjs.

Maybe, because the chainline needs to be fairly straight, you'll need more adaptations.

Not super visible here, but the chain needs to engage with the sprockets teeth in a fairly straight manner :thumbsup:
1000036779.jpg
 
Great job on the bike so far, it's looking really cool! You're disc brake caliper may already come assembled and bled, in which case you won't need to bleed it. Cable actuated calipers are pretty good too, in my experience. But there's lots of good YouTube videos if you do need to bleed the brake and it's really not too difficult. Welcome to the forum and enjoy!
 
Thanks for all the thinking along and advice!

First things first: I've installed the chain and aligned the rear wheel.
It is really close, but it does not look like it is touching from this view:
IMG_0280.HEIC_compressed.JPEG


It is also hard to see if the chain is running straight, but maybe you have a better look on it...
But I will also first try to deflate and inflate my tire again and ride a few kilometres with it so that the tires are settled in the rim correctly. Maybe that also helps creating a little bit more clearance.
If I understand it correctly my wheel already has a dished sprocket, so bringing it more outwards looks challenging.
IMG_0236.HEIC_compressed.JPEG


Next I also turned around the stem again. I do agree it looks a lot better this way. I have to take it for a test ride to set up the bike to my preferences anyway and I'm also still able to place the seat more forward/backward if needed. Those zero-reach stems also look nice, so I'm going to keep those in my when things don't work out.

I also received a kickstand and mounted it. I'm not too happy with it yet as I can not get it tight enough that it does not rotate around the frame itself, but that should be easily fixed with some anti-slip pads or something between the kickstand and the frame.

Also found some nice green pedals (9/16") so mounted them with the afore mentioned adapters.

So this is the current status: Ready for a test drive when the weather gets a little bit better.

IMG_0286.HEIC_compressed.JPEG


Next steps:
- Head and tail lights; I saw a nice headlight that I want, but I'm not sure how to mount it yet on my triple tree fork.
Headlight.png


- Fenders; Still have to look into that. I was told to look for 26/100 size fenders. But I did not find something I really liked. I would like to have a short fender at the rear, but all I could find are half circle fenders. So still some searching to do there.

- Front brake; I have the disc brake installed on the front wheel. I also found already a caliper that would fit. Now I still need to find a nice lever and the knowledge how to install.

- Some touch-up on the paint; During the install some parts got a little bit damaged. Especially the fork took some beating. Any tips on how to touch-up these damages?
IMG_0284.HEIC_compressed.JPEG


Keep you feedback and advice comming!
 
I've used that type of kickstand, it wouldn't stay put until I used some scrap rubber from an inner tube. Between the frame and bracket it held it snug enough when tightened down. The plastic shims would let it move with the weight of the bike.
The chain line can be assessed best when actually taking a ride. There should be no noise from the chain. Minor adjustments to the wheel alignment can work if it's just a small issue.
Your scuffs are in the black area, which is an easy color to cover with a little gloss black model paint.
 
Right behind the kickstand, I see two holes for an original Ruff Cycles kickstand (if they are still available): In the Netherlands you an check or email customcruisers (Zwolle). He's got everything cruiser-related and I have good experiences with the owner
:thumbsup:

Bike looks great! Do you have any clubs nearby to ride with?
 
That was also my idea. Just put some rubber instead of the plastic things to prevent it from rotating. Also will look for some fitting black bolts for better esthetics.

I got this kickstand from customcruisers. He also build my wheels. Really nice guy and very helpful!

I don’t have a club to ride with. It will just be used for cruising around the city with the family. Probably need to think about installing a child seat 🤔😂
 
Thanks for all the thinking along and advice!

First things first: I've installed the chain and aligned the rear wheel.
It is really close, but it does not look like it is touching from this view:
View attachment 284112

It is also hard to see if the chain is running straight, but maybe you have a better look on it...
But I will also first try to deflate and inflate my tire again and ride a few kilometres with it so that the tires are settled in the rim correctly. Maybe that also helps creating a little bit more clearance.
If I understand it correctly my wheel already has a dished sprocket, so bringing it more outwards looks challenging.
View attachment 284113

Next I also turned around the stem again. I do agree it looks a lot better this way. I have to take it for a test ride to set up the bike to my preferences anyway and I'm also still able to place the seat more forward/backward if needed. Those zero-reach stems also look nice, so I'm going to keep those in my when things don't work out.

I also received a kickstand and mounted it. I'm not too happy with it yet as I can not get it tight enough that it does not rotate around the frame itself, but that should be easily fixed with some anti-slip pads or something between the kickstand and the frame.

Also found some nice green pedals (9/16") so mounted them with the afore mentioned adapters.

So this is the current status: Ready for a test drive when the weather gets a little bit better.

View attachment 284116

Next steps:
- Head and tail lights; I saw a nice headlight that I want, but I'm not sure how to mount it yet on my triple tree fork.
View attachment 284117

- Fenders; Still have to look into that. I was told to look for 26/100 size fenders. But I did not find something I really liked. I would like to have a short fender at the rear, but all I could find are half circle fenders. So still some searching to do there.

- Front brake; I have the disc brake installed on the front wheel. I also found already a caliper that would fit. Now I still need to find a nice lever and the knowledge how to install.

- Some touch-up on the paint; During the install some parts got a little bit damaged. Especially the fork took some beating. Any tips on how to touch-up these damages?
View attachment 284122

Keep you feedback and advice comming!
Your rear tire will expand when you sit on it. Going around a corner may make it rub on the chain. Tires age and get wider. You could get a dished cog with as few teeth as you can find, get a flat cog, grind out the center to mke a larger hole and weld it to the top of the dished cog. It would have to be perfectly centered or your chain will have tight and loose spots when you pedal. I did that once,10 years ago and didn’t like the look. I bolted it together to make sure it was centered before I welded it. It’s hardened steel so your tungsten drills get rapidly ruined. Like you said, challenging.
 
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IMG_0967.jpeg
Have you tried a dished chainring on the front? Or a 2x one piece crank setup? Just use the outer dished chainring on a 2x setup. I did this on a tandem with one piece cranks where the original drive was missing. I left both chainrings on the crank arm but only used the big chainrings for the drive as it was a single speed coaster brake drive. Worked good.
Your rear tire will expand when you sit on it. Going around a corner may make it rub on the chain. Tires age and get wider. You could get a dished cog with as few teeth as you can find, get a flat cog, grind out the center to mke a larger hole and weld it to the top of the dished cog. It would have to be perfectly centered or your chain will have tight and loose spots when you pedal. I did that once,10 years ago and didn’t like the look. I bolted it together to make sure it was centered before I welded it. It’s hardened steel do your tungsten drills get rapidly ruined. Like you said, challenging.
 
Ok, i’ve done a test ride this afternoon. Cycled around the village several times and everything went well. Untill the way home… the chain ring on the rear wheel came loose. I suspect that the safety ring has sprung loose. So need to take a look at that tomorrow with daylight.

The chain runs against the tire, but it’s not too bad. So I think I will leave it like this for now.

But the bike rides great! 😅
 

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