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Is the number on then dropout, or bottom bracket? On the dropout would be 1953, if on the bottom bracket could be 1946 or 1952

First of all, Welcome Aboard! I'm not a fan of electric yet. There's a lot involved and batteries need to last longer for my liking. For your stingray, you'll have to invest some bucks for it to be a decent electric bike. A motor in the hub, most probably the front would be efficient, but you...

While visiting a resort farm near home, they have this table and benches made from truck and factory machinery, by a local artist. I might do the same with old bike parts someday.

The patent ran out in 1957, so all the other makers began using that style. Schwinn was always watching like a hawk for any infringements. It could be Murray had a lot of frames started, but as a flatbar before the cantilever style became available. Or they stopped all flatbars frames in 59 but...

Sounds like a good plan. The bolt to drill out might be hardened and tough to drill. I'd see if I could hammer the bolt free from the spring retainer.

Check out that cantilever setup. They attach near the seatpost, they don't go all the way back to the dropouts like the usual cantilever frame.

The brake mounting angle might make a difference. I had a brake that wouldn't reach the rim, but inserted the other way, the pads would reach. The hole wasn't exactly in line with the rim.

You'll probably be disappointed to find what you can get for it. A 65 year old American made bike, original, should go for a lot more. Your plan to keep it is probably best. New tires and tubes and lubed up is a good plan. The handlebar stem looks like it's past it's height limit, unless it's...

The part that retains the spring is part of the bolt, but maybe you can just use a washer or two and let the spring just sit there with no retainer. The spring tension may hold it in place well enough.

Welcome! It's a Midwest brand tricycle from the late 40's or early 50's. The seat and handlegrips are newer. Here are some examples:

I'll remember this mod when I need to widen the chain stays. I won't be bending and hammering and redoing it three or four times. The seat stays can be done the same way and keep alignment correct and strong.

The light matches the patina of the whole bike, looks like it came with it way back when.

What else could that bike be but a traditional step thru? It can't be a mixte as the top bar stops at the seat tube. There's no other type of bike that could be similar.

Instead of doing any cutting or drilling, two tabs could be welded on to the fork. One on either side of the brake arm since it provides braking rolling forward or backward. The arm looks about the same width as the fork arm and the tabs could have a snug fit depending on where you put them on...

I've had that happen a couple of times. I cut out the rim strip from the spot where the valve sits and tape up the ends to hold it in place, then pinch the sides of the tire right at the valve stem to get just enough height for the pump to hold on to and then air it up. Cut at the red lines and...

I found the problem with the fork binding. The bottom race wasn't snug, it had some play so it was changed out along with the fork itself. I'm now using the same kind, only with the bosses removed from an earlier project. I wire brushed and sanded the chrome fork, but it still will be more...

Same here, 700C on a 27" frame, a mixte from 1987, but using a 26" fork. Just enough room.

I also used a wide mallet and hammered it up into the stays and did the same thing, then clamped the dropouts to get them straight.

Put the 2 x 4 between the stays and force it forward, opening up the stays.

That frame is a DX, going by the curved second bar. There should be a serial number on the left dropout which will give the bike's year.