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"Hey...because it's you!"

Park Tool FR-2 or equivalent. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/freewheel-remover-fr-2 A word of advice: Place the tool in position on the freewheel, then loosely secure it in place with the axle nut to prevent slipping. It's going to be TIGHT.

Private mail inbound. TL;DR, I'm making a demo video to share with everyone here.

If you're game to try, I have some suggestions that just might comfort your concerns. Let me know...I've got my thinking cap on.

Um...this question was raised over a dozen years ago. I think they may have figured things out by now.

1930s for sure, and maybe early in that decade. The snowflake chainring strongly suggests it's an Elgin, perhaps even an Elgin Cardinal. I'm not certain when the Model D hub came into wide use, but that could help narrow the date down.

Foul weather is forecast over the next few days, but I found time to pound out a couple of dents, treat the pits, and apply a coat of primer to my bullet lamp. (Did you really need photos of that?) With the cosmetics mostly done, I'll need to concentrate on the circuitry. I want to see if I...

Ooh...countersunk by a Forstner bit and a flat washer, that would add a unique look.

I briefly considered that red Royal Flyer, but don't want to deal with the bent fork.

Headbadge removal with less worry... Grab a steel soup can, cut a section, drill holes just large enough for the rivet heads to pass through. Zip-tie your new 'headbadge armor' to the bike's headtube and proceed to grind or file away the rivet heads, then pop the badge free. Once removed, the...

Too late for Uncle Shish, but I'll post my headbadge rescue procedure in the Tips n Trix thread. https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/tips-n-trix.114104/page-7#post-1252297

YIKES...it's loud. And, the dynamo works.

DOUBLE BONUS: The 'gills' serve a purpose--the space behind the battery box concealed a secret horn! Not sure it works yet, but appears to have been really well protected in its cubby-hole. On to the metalwork.

This links to Jim Henderson's post regarding the same issue. https://ratrodbikes.com/threads/rad-rot-bikes.114235/page-3#post-1186833

I don't blame for wanting to keep the forks pristine. The generally accepted practice has been to file flats on the exposed portion of the modern axles--they're easily sourced and not nearly as valuable. I'm certain the procedure has been outlined in others' previous posts, if you're interested.

Tore the house apart looking for my box of bullet lamps. I have three candidates, each with their pluses & minuses. The ones with the best chrome have minor dents, but I'm leaning toward the center one, which is badly pitted. Pitted, yes...but it also has GILLS! I could fill and paint that...

I'd say that's a definite...maybe(?). I do believe that the blade spacing on most modern forks are significantly wider than the vintage stuff, so the axles might come up short. Also...metric vs SAE? How 'vintage' are we talking? When it comes to bearings, there are only five common sizes...

I'm sure everyone will be relived to hear that I finally finished my saddle repair. I wasn't too pleased with the transitions between the various foam pads, so I decided to swaddle the whole affair with a layer of fiberfill gauze--that was the ticket. Job done...on to the accessories!

When you said bandsaw, I was about to suggest 'parting it' on a lathe. Well...a drill press is pretty much a lathe standing on end--I approve of your makeshift solution!

I'm no Black Monarch, but you could say that I'm satisfied with the result. It's certainly a step up from what it was.