Search results

Yes...I suspect that one side is welded and one side is not.

I can't say I've ever seen a trike that was equipped with a derailleur before. Most are single-speed or employ an IGH hub, so that's interesting. The attached video doesn't expressly demonstrate how to remove the axle, but does provide a better overview of how the unit is assembled and...

Well, there ya' go. Often, the hardest part of a job is mustering the confidence to take that first step. TwoJs, spoke tension can pull a rim toward the hub, but it can't push it away. There is a natural limit to how far a flat spot will respond without mechanical intervention being applied...

Ride it like you stole it...because you did!

According to this chart from The CABE, a stand-alone Cw stamp identifies a Series 3 bike and I'm guessing the 'G' prefix of the serial number suggests a late 1948 production date. A lot of these bikes were badged as Roadmaster, but not exclusively.

A very tiny tweak of the front forks and the build is done. Might have a date code stamped on the bottom bracket shell.

It doesn't hurt to try. If you fail, it's right back to re-lacing--no harm done.

I agree that the front rim could likely be re-laced to the back hub, creating one good wheel. But, here's a discussion we had a few years back regarding the removal of a flat spot from an otherwise desirable rim. Either way, that Super Seven looks like a goldmine of cool parts...

A front derailleur without a rear derailleur doesn't work, unless you have some kind of fancy chain tensioning mechanism. Trikes typically employ an IGH hub for multi-speeds.

Whoa! That looks like block chain to me, which is much, much older and rare. Compare what you have to the image below. Traditional skip-tooth has rollers arranged in pairs--block chain has no rollers. Either way, that Monark wheelset, while vintage itself, is much younger than the rest of...

Photo? I think the Park FR-7 tool is commonly used on the Falcon, but maybe not every instance.

We've seen plenty worse brought back. I was going to chime in about the CABE, as well. They're the best source for most TOC material. Meanwhile, your tandem is pretty complete already--just needs a long skip-tooth chain to tie the cranks together. I'd stake my reputation that the wheels...

That probably used the older Huret/Simplex cable end that was disk-shaped. I just worked on a Peugeot that was so equipped.

JJ is right about swapping out either the rear cog or chainring for something a little large or smaller, as the case may be. You seem to have some misunderstanding, though, about how this will affect the hub itself. The actual ratios delivered by the Nexus4 will not change--it's designed to be...

Yes, $150.00 was quite a princely sum in the 1890s.

Late 70s-early 80s would be my guess.

They might be uncomfortable, but they'd make some cool looking grips!

That's a slab Fred Flintstone would be proud of.

Perfect! Just remember that this tool's tiny fingers are prone to slipping, causing damage to both the freewheel and the tool. Secure it in place, as suggested, until you break the chokehold. Then remove the nut.

Not true. Chainwhips are only required on freehubs cassettes--freewheels don't use 'em.