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Have you seen those wood spoke lightweight 30x1 cart type wheels with the solid rubber tire? They claim to be for display or light duty use, but I bet they would work on a bike like this.

Just a little of the boring stuff but I've getting the frame stripped down. The headset nut and stem were really stuck tight, I bet they had never been removed. I ended up using an air impact to get the headset top nut loose. Everything else has come apart fine.

I just happened to be at the right place at the right time as someone was about to haul this yard art Schwinn to the dump. It's a 1968 Racer. It's covered in some sort yellow peel coat paint and the original paint is trashed so I think it's a good candidate for a custom job.

That's about as old as you can get and still meet the pedal requirement.

Love these bikes. I think 40' was the first year of the forward facing dropouts. Is the head tube electroforged? You can tell by looking at the inside, the top and bottom tube flow right into the head tube. K serial number might be somewhere 42-44ish.

This is so awesome. I've always wanted to build one of these bikes. You get to do a little wood work and metal work on the same bike.

You'll have some nice weather shortly and we'll be suffering in the south. It's already too hot to work in the garage in the afternoon/evening. The mosquitoes are out too.

Man, you guys are fast. Quite a few built threads posted already!

These "Imported" models were the cheapest bikes of the lineup. Probably because of that they didn't get much love in the ads so that makes tracking down the date a little difficult. Western Auto appears to have sold three different versions. This one from the 1958 ad has cantilever bars that run...

I'm talking about where the top and bottom tubes meet the head tube lugs. I'm pretty sure the top tubes should be straight where they go into the lugs. Often you can tell because the wheel is closer to the bottom tube. Here is an example of a "Bauer"...

It's not a Schwinn, but I'm not sure what it is exactly. Something German, or Austrian maybe. I don't think its a Stelber although it is similar. The biggest issue is that the frame looks bent at the head tube. It's probably straight gauge tubing so you might be able to pull it back out (at your...

There is someone on ebay with the complete levers in NOS condition for $12 each. You might try finding a dia comp hood at your co-op and see if that fits. If they fit well enough then you could track down some AME hoods which come in a few interesting colors.

What about ivory white scallops with a thin gold pinstripe.

It seems backwards, but I've found that drivers pass slower and give more room when I'm riding the recumbent. It may be that it stands out as something unusual so maybe people give it a little more thought.

That looks like a Hypercycle. The seats on those bikes were terrible and the short wheelbase puts more weight onto the little front wheel so the handling takes a bit getting used to. I have a S&B recumbent which was the product of two of the guys that had been involved in the Hypercycle. It's...

It used to be BikeFlights but they've just switched to UPS so the prices have gone up. Your best bet will probably be FedEx, although I've heard ShipBikes is pretty good? I haven't used them yet though. Some bike shops will save you a bike box, these are nice because they're usually designed to...

This is from a late 1890's magazine.

I like the new saddle.

I just picked up a porch swing which had about three different diameters of steel tubing just the right wall thickness for bicycles. I avoid galvanized pipe for the obvious reasons, but just about anything else can be used.

Nice looking bike. I never realized there was a frame with the extra bars, I had to find a photo of mine to see which one I had, but it has the top tubes ending at the seat tube.