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Much sound advice here. Don't try to "improve" it. There is nothing you can do that will not detract. Don't take anything off, don't put anything on. Don't even wash it. Sell it as found. You already won the lottery, nothing left but to market it effectively.

bent they are... as are most... no big whoop... ;)

Shelby built frame - '41ish to '52ish(?)

it's 1940'ish westfield built

Murray built - 1946. The rear facing dropout and dropstand ears are a relatively rarer version of this frame. The fork is probably not original.

nevermind...

Would anyone near Toledo OH be willing to pick up and ship? ...a classic Seller can not or will not... PM me if interested

This photo is dated 1941, and the bike is Shelby-built: Here is a closeup of the headbadge - anybody recognize it?

I used bikeflights to ship a bike last week. Great prices, excellent service, idiot proof actually. Please use this service so that they might survive and prosper!

I read something once that the early builders claimed prewar Colson forged flat bladed forks were strongest...FWIW. I spend a lot of time bending [unbending(?)] forks and I say the ashtabula style are much stiffer, more resistant to bending, spring-like.

Lovin it.:)

Thank you gentlemen... your assessment is credible... I believe you are probably right. :)

And for any obsessive complete-ists out there... extra parts!

I favor this one, excellent start.

one-week bump :) Surely somebody has seen these before? :confused:

I used the ringed grips as that is how this model is pictured in the 36 catalog. These bikes came with a down stem like the earlier motobikes. But with the high bottom bracket we need a riser stem to have any knee clearance. The seat is one of my bulletproof late 40's Troxels. They seem to...

The drivetrain is a NOS "Crown" 52T chainwheel as there are no commonly available 1inch cogs for this hub, The rear cog is 20 tooth. Most of the Perry hubs use the European sized 34mm screw on cogs, and I don't have an 18T, so for now we use the OEM 20T. The crank is the original "36" marked...

They have a steeper head tube angle than the upmarket Schwinn straightbars, and steeper than any other ballooner that I have ever handled. This combined with the flatter curve and closer spacing of the topbar gives them a racier look.

I had these rims that are more recent drop centers; we think perhaps 80's vintage Murray sourced? The rear hub is another of my many English '50's manufactured Perrys... which is a licensed copy of the German F&S Torpedo design dating back to 1903 or so. The front hub is a German...

oops... I had changed folders... all fixed now... :oops: