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Any progress on this?

Very nice, just the right balance of style, function and craftsmanship.

You could consider cutting the elbow off the spoke, swaging a new shoulder and then bending the new elbow. It isn't that difficult.

Lovely build, I have always loved those old Indians and as others have said they make a fantstic sound. regarding your lug problem a simple way to removethe old tubing is to split the stub down it's length- an old broken but sharp hack saw blade is good for the job-but make sure you don't cut...

Nice bike, I prefer the triple clamps too. I esp like that you have brazed the frame rather than the usual mig welded. I hope you sell them them easily. I am puzzled as to why so little interest from the usual members in your work? You have built from scratch and used a good number of skills...

[And soaking precision machined parts in a mild acid is a no go as well*] +1

One of the toughest rims is the Halo SAS. 36mm wide - just over 1 & 3/8 inch- They do it in a classy looking chrome plate finish too but not cheap http://www.halorims.com/products-detail ... d=RMHAS62H

All the direct mount rear mechs I have seen over the past 30yrs- including suntour- have used M10 thread, usually 1mm pitch, although I believe campy have used M10 x 26tpi which is close enough to fit a standard M10 thread over such a short length as the width of the hanger. Is the hole in the...

Lovely work!! :D

Mentioned this to an old collegue who used to have Electras and he recomended you look at this site http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit Click on the yellow convert your bike, follow the instructions and it comes to a bit about the V brake mount and that if you don't have...

Here you go http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A2Z-Mountain ... 43a9859b0e

Before having a mount welded on check which grade of ally your frame is made from. 6000 series such as 6061 needs to be heat treated after welding otherwise the frame will be significantly weaker after welding than before! 7000 series ages hardens so doesnt need post weld heat treatment, takes...

If you don't want to weld a mount on to your frame and you have the frame with the horizontal dropouts, like the one in this post viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18471 then you could consider a simple adapter kit like this one- it may be available in the states as well, maybe someone else can tell you...

Your bike seems to date from between 1925 and the start of WW2. A 1928 single in post office guise And a 1938 version in RAF guise, very little changed over the decade for the single speed work horse. From the surviving brochures of the period it seems that as i thought the commuter...

Thanks for the compliment, I have a soft spot for old pre raleigh era Armstrongs. I doubt it would have had a brookes saddle, the ones I have had have either had a traditional mattress saddle like this or they have had after marker saddles, usually the common Iscassall saddles

I think that is definately prewar, I have restored a number of Armstrongs and they all had very soft steel for the tubes- mild steel. Easy to repair. That is a nice find, most of the Armstrongs around are post 1950s from when Raleigh took them over. You will find it heavy but quite comfortable...

You don't say what frame it is? If it is what we refer to as a roadster- usually 3 speed hub gear- over here then the tubing will be just carbon steel so yes it can easily be repaired. The quick way is to clean the paint off the tube in that area- all the way round and about 2 inches above and...

No you would need to move the spring inwards or the axel outwards, it is just leverage. You either increase the distance the wheel moves for a given spring movement or soften the spring. the only way to do the former is to move the spring in towards the rocker pivot.

Flipping the rockers will have drastic effect on the steering, as on udallcustombikes' above, because it changes the steering geometry to give tire contact patch lead (negative trail). An alternative to treating the springs would be to make an adapter plate that moves the spring legs...

There is a way based on tempering of the steel. Since doing it at home is not finely controled and the grade of steel used for the spring is unknown the outcome is unsure so I would recomend incremental trial and error. Put the spring in a preheated oven, say start at 150 degrees Centigrade for...