ΞTHE✪CLASHΞ

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Tired of sanding I turned to easier pursuits today. Somewhat inspired by dreams of @Wildcat's "bag of springs" I searched for a proper moto-spring this time around for my seat suspension. Finding gold parts is hard enough and they're usually weak but finding a seat post or stem less than 22.2 in gold is just not possible. I found this stretch of tube from a stand-up light in 19mm and took the chance it won't bend. Turned out to be pretty good quality. I figured the darker brass tube might offset the very yellow-gold spring, neither of which match my other, yet unseen gold pieces. (clash, clash, clash). Snipped the ends off the spring so as to fit over the tube but couldn't get it deep enough into the bolt cutters and sparks flew, took a slight hit...
View attachment 230693View attachment 230695
But I've got a good spring! Still might need a shim of some sort because its got a lot of room. Psyched about the results.
View attachment 230697
Looks great! I did this to a bike I have. I used an old nut from a fork headset. It fills in the empty space and give the spring a place to sit.
IMG_3044.jpeg
 
I was wondering how snug those things got! I think I need to try a set! Have you ridden on a set?
Ride 'em High said:
Yes, well enough for me to never consider going back to that tube nonsense. I tried riding tubes again for a day and realized my ride suffers dramatically as I slow down for every questionable pothole then push harder than I needed to resume momentum. No fear translates to faster with less work. My own tests tell me that they rarely slip, slide or skid, even when wet or taking track-style angular turns across freshly painted crosswalks. In that particular test I slid once, for a nanosecond, then they self correct with such force I was thrown upright. On the down side, less shock absorption means I'm prone to breaking parts others probably don't like steerers, stems and frames.
 
Ride 'em High said:
Yes, well enough for me to never consider going back to that tube nonsense. I tried riding tubes again for a day and realized my ride suffers dramatically as I slow down for every questionable pothole then push harder than I needed to resume momentum. No fear translates to faster with less work. My own tests tell me that they rarely slip, slide or skid, even when wet or taking track-style angular turns across freshly painted crosswalks. In that particular test I slid once, for a nanosecond, then they self correct with such force I was thrown upright. On the down side, less shock absorption means I'm prone to breaking parts others probably don't like steerers, stems and frames.
Sold! I’m going to go shop for some!
 
In lieu of a gold neck my only option was hoping to find realistic looking gold spacers. Not possible. But if you search far and wide you may find some oversized men's jewelry for twice the price. With this hard to find 250mm quill it's the most expensive component of my build but they say the devil is in the details.
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Broke out the jeweler's rouge today with a wool wheel drill bit.
No bling..
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Bling!
Poppin.jpeg

Anyone know if it's possible to weaken the seam on these things? I wasn't satisfied with the pitting in the seam from yesterday's wet sanding but I was worried about digging too deep.
(Pitting, far left, before buffing <---> steel wool, before sanding)
Wet_sanding_P5000.jpeg
 
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I have no words, this just looks like you are having too much fun!
You're totally right! I'm dragging my feet playing with paint knowing I've got to repeat the process 4 more times with topcoats and more buffing. Deciding whether to swap sanding for a nylon scouring wheel as this alloy is much softer than the pedals. Shows every imperfection.
 
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Purple stem looked too mass produced and adding more pink is going to make it look more like a girls bike. Adding flat color will make this look like a cheap store-bought modern kids bike so I'm trying to maintain a high-end shine wherever possible. Using the same frame paint seemed too dull and matchy-matchy for The Clash but the pink base works for anodizing..
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Four coats of Dupli-color, purple/yellow/purple/purple. Dark in the shade with a nice base shine coming through in the sun. Exactly what I'd hoped for.
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Found something for my badgeless frame to rock.
AMF_Headbadge.JPG

Gold crown test looking brassy.. which I really like. Feels more band for the common folk than does cheesy new gold but I've kinda pigeonholed myself by basing my colors off of my gold handlebar/sissybar combo for lack of options. I'll try again after the new scouring bits arrive and I polish it properly.
 
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Broke out the jeweler's rouge today with a wool wheel drill bit.
No bling..View attachment 231255
Bling!View attachment 231132
Anyone know if it's possible to weaken the seam on these things? I wasn't satisfied with the pitting in the seam from yesterday's wet sanding but I was worried about digging too deep.
(Pitting, far left, before buffing <---> steel wool, before sanding)View attachment 231131
I have an old trek 3900 that has at least 50,000 miles on it.

It’s all original but the rear wheel: I replaced the bearings and cassette twice.

I do run high air pressure in my tires.

Last year, ripping over a set of train tracks, I picked up a pretty strong rub on my rear wheel.

After my ride, looking for the rub, I found the rim sidewall had split open.

It was only a 1” crack, but it was done, and the brakes were the only wear on the rim.

Sort of a long story, but in short, yes, you can get that too thin and if you are running air pressure at or near the max, the wheel could blow out with a combo of thinner metal, high air pressure and a big bump!!!
 
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