‘66 Convertible

[OddJob]

My bars for my Hawthorne build, as well as the whole frame, were caked in rust when I first started. Like you, I was trying to keep some of the original color and let that show through. The frame cleaned up pretty well, but my chrome on the bars and chain guard was like yours; really chipped and not a lot there to work with.

What I did was to use a couple of different rattle can paints to give them some 'color' , but also keep that vintage vibe.

Here's what the bike looked like when I got it:

You can see the bars, frame, and chain guard are pretty badly rusted. Here are a couple of photos of the chain guard / bars process. This is the chain guard before, as I found it, literally 'in a barn'.

I first scrubbed the stem, bars, chain guard and crankset with a 50/50 white vinegar and water mixture and #0000 steel wool to get the flakes of chrome and rust off. Then I sprayed everything, fairly lightly from a distance of probably 18" - 24". Just to get a light coating of the Hammered paint on there. This was a bit 'too shiny' for me, so I then took a Light Gray color, matte with no gloss, and sprayed a VERY light mist of that to tone down the shiny spots in the Hammered color.

This is what I ended up with. It tied in well with the frame that came out well (just like your painted parts came out nicely!) and fit the vibe of the original bike.

Notice I didn't go overboard with the paint. My number one rule in faux-tina is, "Always quit before you think you are done."

And the final result....

Hope this is helpful.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

^the man knows of what he speaks. I'm copying these things for future reference.

 

[marshall hudson]

My bars for my Hawthorne build, as well as the whole frame, were caked in rust when I first started. Like you, I was trying to keep some of the original color and let that show through. The frame cleaned up pretty well, but my chrome on the bars and chain guard was like yours; really chipped and not a lot there to work with.

What I did was to use a couple of different rattle can paints to give them some 'color' , but also keep that vintage vibe.

Here's what the bike looked like when I got it:
View attachment 162046

You can see the bars, frame, and chain guard are pretty badly rusted. Here are a couple of photos of the chain guard / bars process. This is the chain guard before, as I found it, literally 'in a barn'.

View attachment 162047

I first scrubbed the stem, bars, chain guard and crankset with a 50/50 white vinegar and water mixture and #0000 steel wool to get the flakes of chrome and rust off. Then I sprayed everything, fairly lightly from a distance of probably 18" - 24". Just to get a light coating of the Hammered paint on there. This was a bit 'too shiny' for me, so I then took a Light Gray color, matte with no gloss, and sprayed a VERY light mist of that to tone down the shiny spots in the Hammered color.

This is what I ended up with. It tied in well with the frame that came out well (just like your painted parts came out nicely!) and fit the vibe of the original bike.
View attachment 162048
View attachment 162049

Notice I didn't go overboard with the paint. My number one rule in faux-tina is, "Always quit before you think you are done."



View attachment 162050

View attachment 162051
View attachment 162052


And the final result....


View attachment 162053


Hope this is helpful.

Exactly right about quitting before you think you are done. I was sanding on the striping I did on my newly painted tank the other day to age it a little bit. Not getting the look I was going for I grabbed a different grit sanding sponge. You know how this turned out. An hour later it was retapped and painted again. Lesson learned.

 

[LAGreg]

to get the flakes of chrome and rust off.

Excellent advice but to clarify the above… we’re the “flakes of chrome” just the loose bits, or did you remove as much chrome as possible?

 

[OddJob]

Excellent advice but to clarify the above… we’re the “flakes of chrome” just the loose bits, or did you remove as much chrome as possible?

Just what was loose. I always try to keep what 'good' original paint or chrome is there, and then just enhance that with patina technique.

 

[Oldbiscuit]

That looked like a bike I had when I was 5, only mine had 16 inch wheels and no coaster brake. As long as it was rolling the peddles we’re turning. I had it upside down in the garage and I was cranking the peddles and my best friend was sticking a candy bar wrapper in the spokes making noise. He got his fingers to close to the sprocket and it cut the end of his finger off !!

 

[Brian macumber]

I love that chain guard.

 

[kingfish254]

You can always embrace the patina and just cover it all with Boiled Linseed Oil

 

[LAGreg]

You can always embrace the patina and just cover it all with Boiled Linseed Oil

Is that a thing?

 

[kingfish254]

Is that a thing?

Sure is. You can get it in the paint section of Home Depot. Search for it here on RRB and you'll find plenty of examples and discussions on it.

 

[LAGreg]

The original pedals were not threaded to the cranks, also one was missing. They had a specialized bolt with a washer/nut holding it on. I was able to harvest pedals from a kid's bike that fit and are in the ballpark color-wise. I needed new bolts because the existing one wouldn't fit through the new pedal - and of course one was missing. So while it all fits and "works" I cant fix it so the nuts don't unthread while the pedals move. The original seems to have an outer cuff that the pedal moves around which leaves the bolt and nut in place. Ideas???

 

[rat krate orange]

Wheels: Rear went on no issue. For the front one I did as suggested above and filed the post and with the help of my assistant/son was able to pull the forks open to get it in place.

Paint: I cleaned everything and got a lot of surface rust off. Then used auto polish and if it holds, it’ll look great. Nothing like it’s original color but worlds better than when I found it.

View attachment 157319View attachment 157320View attachment 157321

I have had good results using Marvels Mystery Oil. It brings out the color and preserves the paint at the same time. Give it whirl and see what you think. Looking god so far. Good luck. .Razin..

 

[rat krate orange]

My bars for my Hawthorne build, as well as the whole frame, were caked in rust when I first started. Like you, I was trying to keep some of the original color and let that show through. The frame cleaned up pretty well, but my chrome on the bars and chain guard was like yours; really chipped and not a lot there to work with.

What I did was to use a couple of different rattle can paints to give them some 'color' , but also keep that vintage vibe.

Here's what the bike looked like when I got it:
View attachment 162046

You can see the bars, frame, and chain guard are pretty badly rusted. Here are a couple of photos of the chain guard / bars process. This is the chain guard before, as I found it, literally 'in a barn'.

View attachment 162047

I first scrubbed the stem, bars, chain guard and crankset with a 50/50 white vinegar and water mixture and #0000 steel wool to get the flakes of chrome and rust off. Then I sprayed everything, fairly lightly from a distance of probably 18" - 24". Just to get a light coating of the Hammered paint on there. This was a bit 'too shiny' for me, so I then took a Light Gray color, matte with no gloss, and sprayed a VERY light mist of that to tone down the shiny spots in the Hammered color.

This is what I ended up with. It tied in well with the frame that came out well (just like your painted parts came out nicely!) and fit the vibe of the original bike.
View attachment 162048
View attachment 162049

Notice I didn't go overboard with the paint. My number one rule in faux-tina is, "Always quit before you think you are done."



View attachment 162050

View attachment 162051
View attachment 162052


And the final result....


View attachment 162053


Hope this is helpful.

Looks good. Hope your 66 convertable turns out as good as this bike did. RideOn... Razin...

 

[rat krate orange]

That looked like a bike I had when I was 5, only mine had 16 inch wheels and no coaster brake. As long as it was rolling the peddles we’re turning. I had it upside down in the garage and I was cranking the peddles and my best friend was sticking a candy bar wrapper in the spokes making noise. He got his fingers to close to the sprocket and it cut the end of his finger off !!

Try clothes pins and playing cards, they work better and you get to keep your fingers to boot... Razin....

 

[rat krate orange]

The original pedals were not threaded to the cranks, also one was missing. They had a specialized bolt with a washer/nut holding it on. I was able to harvest pedals from a kid's bike that fit and are in the ballpark color-wise. I needed new bolts because the existing one wouldn't fit through the new pedal - and of course one was missing. So while it all fits and "works" I cant fix it so the nuts don't unthread while the pedals move. The original seems to have an outer cuff that the pedal moves around which leaves the bolt and nut in place. Ideas???
View attachment 164296View attachment 164297View attachment 164298View attachment 164299

Try tapping the holes in the crank with a 1/2" tap and then you could use any 1/2' thread pedals that come in any color you want as long as it's not Pink... Good luck... Razin..

 

[LAGreg]

Nearly done. Last point is the seat. All padding is long gone. It also is basically in one piece as the post is welded to the saddle. And it has a thin seat post. I’m inclined to simply leave it as is, short of finding a vintage replacement. A new replacement will be out of place and I’m not sure how I’d go about re-upholstering this one. Any thoughts?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

That square bolt is nuts

 

[rat krate orange]

Nearly done. Last point is the seat. All padding is long gone. It also is basically in one piece as the post is welded to the saddle. And it has a thin seat post. I’m inclined to simply leave it as is, short of finding a vintage replacement. A new replacement will be out of place and I’m not sure how I’d go about re-upholstering this one. Any thoughts?View attachment 167264View attachment 167265View attachment 167266

The Huffy i have has the same seat post and square head bolt.. See if you could maybe get some vinyl and maybe glue to the pan... Good luck...

 

[OddJob]

It looks like the top and bottom seat 'pans' are riveted together? You could drill out the rivet, with a bit about the size of the rivet hole and then your two pans should come apart. Put a carriage bolt with a smooth rounded head in through the top of the seat pan, wrap your top pan with your seat material, spray the underside of the seat material with a super strength spray adhesive. Using a strong glue like Gorilla glue, glue the edges to the underside of the top pan, and clamp all the way around. Then insert the top pan into the bottom pan / seat post part and fasten with a nut to each of the three carriage bolts.

I've done this a few times. It takes some patience and make sure you leave plenty of material to glue to the underside, you can always trim it off later. You need enough to pull to get the seat cover tight. Clamp for longer than you expect, I usually go a few hours.

 

[LAGreg]

Turns out it’s just one piece with the lip folded over. The rivets are holding the spring on. So short of replacing the seat entirely I’m just going to leave it as-is.