BO15 1936 BAGGI "CHAMPION OLYMPIQUE ET DU MONDE"

[restodave]

This looks like a cool build. I've seen everything from precise restorations to wild customs in previous build offs so as far as I understand anything goes. I have already learned a few things from your build so I personally would like to encourage you to continue building and posting on this thread.

 

[Chad T]

Nobody will bother you for properly restoring your bike. This bike deserves nothing less. A few of us really enjoy it and look forward to seeing it come together.

There are always a few straight restorations every year but this is the first '30s road bike I can remember.

 

[user 28964]

This looks like a cool build. I've seen everything from precise restorations to wild customs in previous build offs so as far as I understand anything goes. I have already learned a few things from your build so I personally would like to encourage you to continue building and posting on this thread.

Nobody will bother you for properly restoring your bike. This bike deserves nothing less. A few of us really enjoy it and look forward to seeing it come together.

There are always a few straight restorations every year but this is the first '30s road bike I can remember.

Thanks folks,
I guess I was a little "freaked" when I read about a fork change that was from a different bike for a "Class 1" build. I certainly will keep moving forward on this bike. I have now found out that all parts are original (based on comments from the original owner's friend who I got it from), except saddle , seatpost, and post binder bolt. Very surprised that the chain had not been replaced, but I have no idea as to how many miles were put on it; I have yet to check the chain's wear, but it seems tight without excessive play. I now plan to keep the original rims/wheels as received, as well as build the wooden rims with some '50's Campy hubs I have laying about for racing use should I go that way on this frame.

 

[kingfish254]

Please keep building the bike that fits your vision. All bike styles are appreciated in our build offs. You should take a look at the final galleries from some of the 14 prior build offs and you will see the creative history of the RRB BOs. We have fun with all levels of stock and custom work.

 

[user 28964]

Here are a couple views of the head tube, and Gloria "Tour De France" brakes. I will try to preserve the finish on the brakeset, just hoping the rust is superficial enough that is doesn't detract from the overall condition. If I use the wooden rims (received Monday) I will fabricate (you can still buy them though) cork brake pads. Since rims will not be stock to the bike and I could only find a front steel hub from my Campy stash, I might use some 40s/50s Bayliss-Wiley track hubs; the rear is a flip-flop so I can still throw a freewheel on it if needed. They are for a different build, but I'll still be able to use them on the track frame regardless.

 

[user 28964]

Brand new wooden rims arrived, l believe I'll mount them to some solid Camp. hubs from the '70s or '80s now that I've seen then. Just need to size some spokes and condition the wood for the average temp and humidity lest l end up with "ripply rims". It's always best to leave spokes a little loose to account for expansion and contraction of the wood under various atmospheric conditions. Tighten and true for the season/conditions they'll most be used in and loosen back up for winter storage.

 

[OC_Rolling_Art]

I am impressed with this bike and your approach to it, can't wait to see it all come together...

 

[kingfish254]

The front of that pic is beautiful bikeporn.
The vintage road/track bike parts are great to see too.
I never knew that you had to take the seasons into account with wooden wheels, but it makes sense.

 

[user 28964]

....take the seasons into account with wooden wheels, but it makes sense.

I have some leather drumheads; they make for "fine tuned" hygrometers changing size with a small variance in humidity. I need to keep them (wood and leather based items, including saddles) in a room of fairly steady humidity (60-65%). The humidity in Florida can go from 30%-90% in very short order, my house gets moist if not conditioned, if only at 80°F just to keep the humidity at 60%. The rims, if kept taut after breaking in with nipples set into the wood, and having been originally stored and built in a dry environment, will expand if stored in a moist environment causing the nipple to sink into the wood a little more while the rim bows out more between the nipples causing a "sinusoidal" profile. In the worst case the rim can become irreparable, or at best need to be completely loosened up and "reconditioned" in a moist environment and then brought back to an average/normal humidity range to retension and true. I will lace these (after 45 days "conditioning") at a high limit of tension to initially build, hoping that nipples will bed nicely during "break in"; then readjust at the low tension limit to allow for some inevitable expansion. Still need to loosen nipples a couple turns during the off-season/storage periods.

 

[Sarah Luv]

Not sure if this is the original, but I still like it. Unknown crankset, any takers on identifying it?
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That is super cool

 

[sdframe]

Yeah, that's one hades of a chain ring!

You-know-who is in the details.

 

[sdframe]

Very, very interesting bike frame. I'd be so tempted to convert it into a unique fixie/single-speed. I'm watching with great interest.

 

[user 28964]

Very, very interesting bike frame. I'd be so tempted to convert it into a unique fixie/single-speed. I'm watching with great interest.

I have a 50's track frame that I'm getting ready to work on so that'll be my "single speed", but I might make it a 2 speed freewheel build with Cyclo "pull-chain" derailleur, and rear braking only (keeping a more aerodynamic front profile). The Baylis-Wiley rear hub is a flip-flop so the track/fixed gear aspect will always be available. I don't have the heart to take a multi-speed racer, especially of this vintage/rarity, and make it into something it wasn't meant to be. I'm only improving its alternate components for racing (wood tubular rims w/alloy hubs), but even then they'll be of the same/similar construction as the original equipment and/or period equipment.

 

[HPL]

Not sure if this is the original, but I still like it. Unknown crankset, any takers on identifying it?
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Man, I don't know where you get this stuff, and, what's more, where do you keep it hidden!?
You are obviously holding out on all of us! Give me a sneak peek as to what "road bike magic" you'll be entertaining us with next (if you don't mind)

Edit: thanks for the update photos!

 

[user 28964]

[QUOTE="HPL, post: 1148275, member: 29097 ...Give me a sneak peek as to what "road bike magic" you'll be entertaining us with next (if you don't mind)
[/QUOTE]

I cannot do much more than 2 at a time, whew!
Still working on Baggi for about 2 more months.

Finished the Crescent "Pepita" about 2 months ago:

Now a regular rider; only problem replaced rim tape and inner tubes, tubes "pushing through" the tape causing holes. Cloth rim tape is not designed for higher tire pressure tolerances (and hot car storage), and tubes were not brand new either, so my fault!


Finished the Quintana Roo "Kilo" about 2 weeks ago:

Now selling; killer bike, but too small! ST 46cm c-t, TT 48cm c-c, 71cm standover.


And I'll have this TOMMASINI, unknown model, Columbus frame ("SL") and fork (w/Bottecchia crown panto') done in about 2 days:

Now rebuilding a Shimano 600 "Tri-color" wheelset, setting up as a trainer (about 21 pounds max.).

That is it until I have more workspace again.

 

[nosferatu1381]

Not sure if this is the original, but I still like it. Unknown crankset, any takers on identifying it?
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I know exactly what it is hang on lemme find it. I have always wanted one of those

 

[user 28964]

I know exactly what it is hang on lemme find it. I have always wanted one of those

Hey thanks, there are no markings on it (ring or crank arms). I had one individual from Europe think that it was made by Mercier. I know they made bikes, but I didn't know they made components also. If you tell me Mercier also, I'll go with that! Slowly I'm getting everything figured out; it's like being a bike anthropologist ("velanthropedalist"?) trying to figure out the lineage of the frame and it's components. I have been getting some very good help from everyone.

Thanks again for anymore input!

 

[nosferatu1381]

Hey thanks, there are no markings on it (ring or crank arms). I had one individual from Europe think that it was made by Mercier. I know they made bikes, but I didn't know they made components also. If you tell me Mercier also, I'll go with that! Slowly I'm getting everything figured out; it's like being a bike anthropologist ("velanthropedalist"?) trying to figure out the lineage of the frame and it's components. I have been getting some very good help from everyone.

Thanks again for anymore input!

Yeah I have a chainwheel album somewhere that I made for ID's. Let me see if I can find it.

 

[nosferatu1381]

Fonlupt chainring, with Derwis crank arm. They were around from 1920 all the way into the 80's but not with that chain ring. i knew i had one here somewhere just took me a minute to look up the company in the French forums. Bespoked was making replicas of the classics as late as lat year. Yours didn't look like one of the Bespoked wheels though. Yeah no I just looked at your bike again its the real deal it was probably "born" with it

 

[user 28964]

Fonlupt chainring, with Derwis crank arm. They were around from 1920 all the way into the 80's

Thanks Nosferatu1381,

Great information! I had been trying to find any period European parts makers whose name started with "A" due to the possibility that the chainring had an "A" designed into it intentionally and was not just part of the "design". Now I'm down to the bar (no marks), stem ("Campione"), and freewheel ("Speciale") that have yet to be I.D.'d (at least with any documentation and/or imagery). I had been able to verify that all parts (except saddle, post, binder bolt) are original to the bike as purchased. Surprisingly, all bearings are in useable condition, and chain checked out okay also.
Careful cleaning of frame and components proceeds. Slight problem of "stains" from electrical tape that was used to secure the top tube brake cable. I don't understand why the cable guides are missing, but I have plenty in stock for replacements. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing electrical tape residue without damaging the paint? I have many solvents that will remove the tape residue, but will also remove the paint at the same time so not an optimal solution at this stage. There will still be plenty of blemishes on this frame, but I would like to get it as "pristine" looking as possible without sacrificing what has survived for 85 years.