1940-41 Gamble's Badged Curve-Bar - She's Done

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I did a test patch on the tank, and it seems all the OG orange paint is still under the house paint. And as you can see it's in fantastic shape for being painted over.
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And the fenders and frame also have the OG paint as well.
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This is the original fork and it's pretty beat to heck, so I'm gonna replace it with a nicer one I have.
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Here's the replacement.
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all of the rusty chrome and metal is soaking in vinegar over night.
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sadly theres a really bad weld job on the frame, I'll see about cleaning it up a bit.
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Might be a Murray Ohio-built for the Gambles stores in the snow-belt.
We have seen another similar badged as Pilot for the Firestone tire stores.
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/1941-murray-firestone-pilot.92926/
Not sure when Murray started to sell "Murray" bikes with their own badges.

Ya all the research I've done indicates this, It's definitely not an Idaho native all the bikes that live here there whole life are not as rusty. I pulled it out of a storage unit where a fellow collector had it stashed for 15+ years.

I personally like the off branded bikes a lot more the the Elgin badged ones, even though there not as valuable.
 
Cleaned up most of the small parts, turned out real nice. It always amazes me how nice that old chrome/nickel plating cleans up. I just buffed out the paint with 0000 grit steel wool and WD-40, then all the parts got a coat of boiled linseed oil.
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30 minutes of me rambling about pedals :grin:.
 
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Cleaned up more of that parts
 

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Rebuilt the wheel set today, super nice condition on theses blackouts.
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Alright these wheels are super cool, which means they need cool tires. I think both tire sets would be cool but tell me what you guys think.
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Got the paint off the fenders.
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Stripped the paint off, on this particular bike it's kind of hard to tell so I took a pic half way through.
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Sadly the guy I took the frame to for a repair decided it need "MORE WELD"
At lest I can sand it down and try to blend it.
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Stripped the paint off, on this particular bike it's kind of hard to tell so I took a pic half way through.

Sadly the guy I took the frame to for a repair decided it need "MORE WELD"
At lest I can sand it down and try to blend it.
Be careful while sanding it down, because there is a chance if you don't leave enough steel there it would crack again. For me it is hard to tell how deep the metal actually melted when he welded it, chances are that not too deep and then the crack might still be there.
Your other option would be to remove this excessive steel completely and bring the frame to someone who does TIG welding, since TIG's seam is more aesthetically pleasing, and also it would guarantee the depth of the weld.
 
Be careful while sanding it down, because there is a chance if you don't leave enough steel there it would crack again. For me it is hard to tell how deep the metal actually melted when he welded it, chances are that not too deep and then the crack might still be there.
Your other option would be to remove this excessive steel completely and bring the frame to someone who does TIG welding, since TIG's seam is more aesthetically pleasing, and also it would guarantee the depth of the weld.

Ya I'm going to redo the whole thing, It will just keep bugging me if I don't.
 

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