1965 Murray Skymaster

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All great advice, and I second the above, if you're happy with it, suds to the straightening. Its not a big deal if its not too sharp and the rake isnt that off it doesnt look like. I hesitated about mentioning it, but had I taken my Monark Rocket 24" [1947] out on a test run, Id have had one very sorry ride.
My main point to mention was have a close look as Wildcat mentioned right below the bottom race and be sure there isnt a crack not just for fixings sake, but your safety.
A good enough hill and a hearty enough crack can spell some hard ground for face. I wouldnt leave it unchecked, just in case you need it reinforced if not straightened out.

With the break on my fork, it left JUST enough of the Steer Tube to Peg weld another Tube together for the original fork legs and crown, but thats not always the case. The downside was the Brazed In Steer Tube due to the era. [it was made with quality but unfortunately that same quality made replacing the whole steer tube practically impossible without proper machining.]

Your steer tube, if cracked may be easier to replace as a whole and again, save the original crown and legs [as pretty as they are, itd be a shame to replace the whole fork.] instead of have to Peg Weld where theres just enough jagged pipe left by chance., which rewelding a Steer Tube may not be a sure fix but it seems to have worked wonders in my case.
 
All great advice, and I second the above, if you're happy with it, suds to the straightening. Its not a big deal if its not too sharp and the rake isnt that off it doesnt look like. I hesitated about mentioning it, but had I taken my Monark Rocket 24" [1947] out on a test run, Id have had one very sorry ride.
My main point to mention was have a close look as Wildcat mentioned right below the bottom race and be sure there isnt a crack not just for fixings sake, but your safety.
A good enough hill and a hearty enough crack can spell some hard ground for face. I wouldnt leave it unchecked, just in case you need it reinforced if not straightened out.

With the break on my fork, it left JUST enough of the Steer Tube to Peg weld another Tube together for the original fork legs and crown, but thats not always the case. The downside was the Brazed In Steer Tube due to the era. [it was made with quality but unfortunately that same quality made replacing the whole steer tube practically impossible without proper machining.]

Your steer tube, if cracked may be easier to replace as a whole and again, save the original crown and legs [as pretty as they are, itd be a shame to replace the whole fork.] instead of have to Peg Weld where theres just enough jagged pipe left by chance., which rewelding a Steer Tube may not be a sure fix but it seems to have worked wonders in my case.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. There's no crack so I should be good to go [emoji1303]


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Got the LED set up ready to go - no modification to the factory components and the headlights are BRIGHT :) I have them on a switch to turn on the left or right headlight and the tail light separately. Hopefully will have them mounted tomorrow and get some pics. [emoji1360] Now back to finishing up my wife's Schwinn CoEd rat :)


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Pics up today. Been riding the Skymaster a ton lately.[emoji1303]


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It was a good rider, only rode it a few times tho. 50 year old tires can be sketchy.
 

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