1969 Eaton's Fastback 100 - That's a Canadian Chopper eh?

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Seems you have your cotter pin issues taken care of at this point. I became so frustrated with one particular set my wife bought me the cotter pin press made by Bikesmithdesign, before you go giving her praise for buying me bike tools, know that it was for her bike. They also make a drive side bb cup tool for the raleighs, which help for those cups that are siezed in from rust/corrosion.

http://bikesmithdesign.com

And for the tubes where the sissy bar goes in, what about trying a "flex-hone"? We use them on the seattubes of new frames to polish them up and prevent scrtaches on the seatposts, may be able to find one small enough for the sissy bar tubes.

Thanks for the great tips. I've seen a homemade version of that cotter pin press. You can buy a little clamp from Fastenal for $5 and turn in to a version of the one your wife bought you. Most of my bikes are one piece cranks, but it is nice to have the right tool to do the job, so I might have invest in that press for future jobs. I'll check out "flex-hone" too. CHEERS :)
 
Great work you have going on here . Looks great .


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Alrighty, I'm back to the Fastback after stepping away from it to nearly complete my other build. Decided to skip the sissy bar for now, since I'm waiting for a new to me back seat plate. I bent the original which was in decent shape when I tried to pry out the seized sissy bar. Rookie mistake. Ah well, that was I while ago and I haven't made any of those mistakes for a while...... until tonight.

Bike building teaches me more patience than I already had, and I've always considered myself to be a patient person. However, you have those moments during bike building when you're excited to see the next piece in place and all rational thought goes out the window. Anyway, my mistake tonight was drilling the fender holes in the new fender I bought in the wrong place. Yep, I know.... Anyway, I bought a set of repop fenders on ebay. I wasn't going to because they're so .... expensive to ship. I caved when the seller had a Christmas sale and drastically lowered the price. When I look at the fenders, they look pretty good, but something about them makes me glad that I forced my own hand into using the original fenders. I cleaned them up and they look pretty good despite some pitting. I guess that set of fenders may show up at a later date for another build. Meant to be.

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With the fenders on, I moved on to the brake calipers. I actually replaced some of the brake pads with new ones. I didn't think I'd be able to find a match and these were pretty cheap. They fit nicely in the back, but the fronts will have to be shaved down. For now I just fit the originals.

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I decided to get the wheels put together tonight as well. Since the original rims were badly rusted, I'm using the front rim from this Marauder I have. The rim is an Araya 16 x 1.75 which matches an Araya rear 20 x 2.125 I've had for almost 15 years. I laced it up to restore my first bike and then realized the hub had some issues. I have some NOS 3 speed hubs, so I imagine I'll use one of those, or if I get really ambitious, I'll tear apart my first Sturmey Archer hub. Added the original fastback spoke protector and put on my redline Raleigh tires and I think they look great. Also threw on the shifter and cover which I added new stickers too in the first half of this build during the MBB05. Also threw on the chain guard.

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I put the pedals on too, which I currently have listed on ebay. I'm not in love with the condition even though they're pretty good, so the proceeds from the sale will hopefully buy me a suitable replacement.

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Going away for a few days, so I had to go down to the basement after my wife and daughter went to bed to get my bike fix. I decided to work on the cables. After I picked my paint colour, I impulsively bought this roll of vintage blue bmx brake cable housing from the same seller that sold me the sparkly blue grips and lever covers. I was thinking black or white to begin with, but I want to be a little different. The lever covers are a little darker than the grips, but I think they still work.

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So, the levers that came with bike were mismatched, so I used a set from a CCM Elan donor bike. They're in decent shape, but can always be switched out later if I find a set that I'm more in love with. Running the brake cables is no problem at all. The problem is when you get to the shifter cable. You can't just change the cable housing because one end has the head on it, and the other end has the indicator chain attachment. I have used the bolt on indicator chain attachments in the past, but I just think they end up looking like a fix instead of the 'real deal'.

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What to do?? Well, I watched a few videos on youtube and adapted the methods I found to create my own DIY cable ends. I have boxes and boxes of NOS 3 speed sturmey cables that have the indicator end. I simply snip the shifter end, and strip the plastic coating to give myself a basic cable. Then I grab some ferules and put on my new blue cable housing. Make sure your lengths are right. I just used the old cables as a reference. Trying not to make late night mistakes tonight! Take a set of pliers and just fray the end of the cable a bit like in the picture. I then used my calipers to measure the diameter of the original cable end, and found a drill bit of the same size. I then drilled a hole to the same depth as the width of the cable end, and then cut a slot for the cable using a dremel tool. Put some flux in the hole and on the end of the cable. All I did next, was grab some solder and used my soldering iron to melt solder into the 'primitive wooden cable end mold'. This is the first time I have tried this method, and I must say it works perfectly. I tried to pull the cable end off, and it ain't going anywhere. You can see the new cable end and the old one in the picture below.

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Getting there....

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Love your cable fix! I too so dislike the replacement ends that bolt on, dont look right on the old raleigh/sturmey stuff and are made from cheap materials, absolutely love this solution!

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I've been feeling a little under the weather to start 2017, but not enough to keep me from tinkering in the basement after the baby goes down for the night. I put the frame on the stand and decided to start with the kick stand and the bottom bracket .

The fastback frame is the same as the early MK1 chopper frames. If you ever restore one of these, make sure you know the differences between the MK1 and the MK2 frame. I didn't realize the kick stand mounts were different and luckily I bought the correct kickstand by chance. It was very easy to install, but I hear that the MK2 install and removal is a little tricky. They even sell a special tool for its removal.

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After that easy install, I chipped away all the crud from the bearing cups and degreased everything with some park cleaner. I greased up the cups, added the bearings and carefully threaded the cups. You want to make sure not to cross thread these. You also want to make sure your powder coat guy properly seals this area so no paint gets into the thread. My guy did a great job, because these threaded on nicely. It's also great to have the right HCW-11 park tool for this. Also, make sure you put the axle in the right way. The sprocket side has a longer distance from the bearing races to the end of the axle.

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With the bottom bracket in place, the next step is to put on the cranks. This was my first snag of the rebuild. I damaged the original cotter pins when I removed them, and they were in rough shape anyway. The new ones I got were 9.5mm which is the correct size, but they don't have enough of a taper to fit properly. I'll have to shave them down when I can get into the shop next. I don't have anything good at home to complete this task.

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Looking for a kickstand for fastback 100 can you help me out
 

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